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Andyww

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Everything posted by Andyww

  1. The first thing to decide is whether you want the aerial to be controlled by the switch or by the radio's aerial control output. When you mention green/brown is connected to power (live when radio is powered), do you mean this is 12V when the radio is switched on? If so, thats the radio aerial control wire so you dont need that if you are using the switch instead. You need to find a 12V supply which is always on. There would have been such a wire somewhere but could be tricky finding it, it would come from the fuse box so you could look for any wires coming from that which are not connected to anything. You will also need am earth wire. Then wire according to the aerial instructions. The aerial blue wire to the switch looks correct but the centre terminal of the switch needs to go to 12V, the same as the 12V supply to the red aerial wire. The third switch terminal would not be used.
  2. This is exactly what I said above. The OP was querying the original cars wiring, and it needs to be simplified for the newer aerial. So the existing switch needs to be connected to 12V and to the blue wire, and red to 12V. BTW the switch is exactly the same as the mirror adjust L-R switch on early cars so if the L-R has rubbed off the mirror switch you can swap the aerial switch into the door for use as the mirror switch. The L-R isnt really needed on the aerial switch as it cant be seen.
  3. This aerial likely doesnt need the timer relay, so you could connect the control wire to 12V via the switch. Or not use the switch and connect to the radios aerial control wire if it has one. The original aerial needed the timer because if you powered it to raise, the motor would simply continue to run all the time, but later ones have built-in control.
  4. The switches were wired to a timer relay under the glovebox. Only two connections are used, so its off/on and the timer relay deals with powering the aerial for a suitable time, in either polarity. So it depends on whether you have this. The switch had no connection with the radio and was provided for use with radios which didnt have an aerial control wire.
  5. SJ would only be limited help as they wont know about the USA cars which have more "gubbins" on them. Best way is simply measure the length with string and buy generic accordingly from a parts store or Ebay.
  6. Not sure if a show name with "Gear" in it really works with electric cars. They should keep that name for a classic car show.
  7. I would make my own if doing it again, and put the hose through before fitting the ends. These are the same type of connectors used on the pre-made ones.
  8. Has anyone used or heard anything positive/negative about the pistons SJ are selling which are made by Omega Pistons, for the LC Turbo? Reason for asking is someone told me he would not use them, but although this person is very knowlegable on these engines, he is to some extent a competitor of SJ so I am not sure if he is dismissing them for marketing reasons or genuine engineering reasons.
  9. Cant say I have ever had any hostile behaviour towards the Esprit. Its very common, in 2-lane traffic that another car will hang back and drive either alongside the Esprit or slightly behind, to get a good look at it. The same happens with my AZ-1 but thats because they are trying to work out what on earth it is. Passengers phone comes out as they Google it. When I owned a Ferrari 328 I would often get "let's overtake the Ferrari" dickheads though. Ferraris, even older ones seem to bring out the envy factor in some people, but not so the Esprit.
  10. Because of Ohms law. V = IR Voltage drop = current x resistance. Without the coil connected, current is zero hence voltage drop across the resistive wire is zero.
  11. I think you have confirmed everything is working, the red wire is a resistive wire. The resistive wires usually can be identified as they have a kind of woven insulation rather than plain plastic. Does it have this?
  12. It would not surprise me if he has stopped making Esprit tanks as there are too many versions to keep track of and he likely ends up having to modify or even scrap some before they are correct. Anyway when replacing the tanks all you have to do is think that it could be the heater unit you are removing and then they become easy by comparison!
  13. This is what mine looks like. The bracket has to be bent across to the left otherwise the lever fouls it. As far as I can remember the part of the lever which contacts the throttle stop screw hits the spring where it goes through the hole in the bracket.
  14. Yes, normal. The motors only rotate one way and the down rest position is before the lowest point of the movement. There are no motor stops on the G cars
  15. I noticed that issue on mine. The bracket which holds the throttle cable and end of the spring, mounted to the plenum, was bent. But when I straightened it, it caused the lever to hit the end of the spring so had to bend it back out of true again. Presumably all these cars are like that.
  16. If its doing it at low speed when engine hot it could be a fuel vaporisation issue. Is all the ducting correct which keeps the airflow through the engine bay, via the front and back sides of the ears and intake air from the outside? Any fuel pipes closer to exhaust than they should be? You have not got the cooling air through the louvres as on the Turbo so engine bay temp could be high. If it does it when running slowly after a period of high speed running that would make this more likely as a cause.
  17. Yes you can put a couple of soft bags in it.
  18. The boot bag is a great solution. You can fold it out of the way when carrying bigger stuff, as long as there is nothing sharp which might impact the body from inside. I keep some tools, cleaning stuff and other assorted kit in a soft bag outside of the boot bag in the left rear corner, so its invisible and doesnt take up any of the bag. The later cars without the bag that space is blocked off and cant be used.
  19. I posted some pics of the AZ-1 I imported as a project earlier in this thread. Here it is, the one on the right next to my other one, all nice and finished. This was a full resto, the only part I didnt totally dismantle was the gearbox.
  20. I repaired mine using strimmer cord. The repair was a lot easier than taking off the door and refitting it to remove it!
  21. If its a suspected ignition problem why not buy a set of 4 neon spark plug cap indicators and leave them fitted. Then you will have an instant indication of whether the problem is loss of spark and whether on all or some plugs. I believe they started fitting some of the emissions stuff on UK engines before the HC such as the temperature controlled vacuum advance on the distributor. The engine has the longer HC inlet manifold and HC style cam covers or did they fit those to all the LC NA engines?
  22. I have this book, I could have brought it over the other day, LMK if you want to borrow it.
  23. I was surprised to see the old rev limiting rotor arm earlier. Never knew these were even fitted to Esprits, likely most have been swapped out for standard by now. They used to fit them to the twincams in the Elan/Europa and they were notorious for causing ignition problems, this has to be the prime suspect.
  24. The Lumenition amps are very reliable except for the very early type. A weak point is the connector between the optical sensor and the module, with the Molex plug. If you have been going in under the carbs you might have pulled it apart.
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