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Daveb99

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Everything posted by Daveb99

  1. Well done on the quick sale - sold privately or to trade?
  2. Hi Ade, I'm just sending you a message, I viewed (and drove) the car last week and picked up on a few things, it might help you with your decision.
  3. Sounds like a nightmare. Just when you should be enjoying it you just want to kick it! Does anyone know if there is a permanent fix for the window issues, or does a new part fail over time just like the old one did?
  4. Wow, so I can understand early cars having issues like this, but after new seals on the 2012 cars onwards, and then further revisions with the 400 onwards, we still can’t park the car outside in the rain without the risk of window regulator failure? On a £100k GT430?
  5. Good old Lotus. Does it still happen in the 400/410 etc onwards too?
  6. Does this happen also on MY12 cars onwards? I was led to believe they have improved seals on the doors, do they still leak?
  7. James, if it is the battery, I think in your shoes I’d be asking the garage your bought it from to pay for a new one. They shouldn’t be letting batteries get completely flat, and sometimes going this causes irreparable damage to it, such that it won’t retain a full charge any more.
  8. Congrats, looks good. Tip for cleaning the oyster leather, try Autoglym Interior Shampoo. Works a treat to remove the inevitable marking from your jeans. Was this the one that had a new clutch recently? Does look great in the blue, quite unusual and very striking.
  9. Thanks Bibs, I had forgotten about that - Specsavers beckons! Is it worth adding some of the stuff I’ve listed into the Buyers Guide?
  10. I've recently started looking at Evoras, mostly the low end of the market (sub £30k), and although I've decided to park the idea for now, and keep my S1 Elise, I have come across and been told about a good few things to watch out for. I thought it would be worth sharing to help others with their search for a good one. At the very least it will ensure potential buyers go into it with their eyes open. Happy to edit / add to this as I'm sure there are a few other things too - clearly there are dozens of owners on here amongst you, who have years of experience with these great cars... Mechanical / Electrical · Clutch - longevity varies, usually requires changing between 30 - 50k miles, but can vary with driving style, usage, and pot luck. £2.5k - £3.5k for replacement. Unsure if any early warning signs can be detected. · Gear linkage cables - upgraded from MY2012 on. Early cars had issues with the original cables.
 · Pulleys/tensioner - Check pulleys in engine bay, listen for rumbling or squeaking sound on right side of engine, bearings get dry in the tensioner - if the belt is moving side to side when idling it’s a sign also. New tensioner is £200 for the part plus lots of labour. · IPS transmission fluid – very important to ensure the correct Toyota fluid has been used – it’s expensive. Other fluid can cause shifting issues. · IPS TCU (Transmission Control Unit) – check it has been upgraded to the latest software. · Starter motor – known to fail. Check if replaced at all. · Catalytic convertors – the 2 cats near the manifold (“mani-cats”) can get too hot and lead to a MIL warning light. · Headlight washer motors - known to fail. · TPMS valves – batteries get low with age, also when tyres are changed, they need to be released into the wheel before the tyre is removed. · Aluminium covered ducting /chimney – from engine to vent at rear of roof – ally covering comes off with age. · Door electrics – Check the door handles work properly - they can fail but are quite cheap. Window regulators can also fail – check the windows drop a little when opening the door. Microswitches in the door lock fail. Central locking failures. Some of these parts are on back order…. · Air con – check it blows cold. A/C compressor is a common failure and is expensive - £2k part from Lotus, can be bought cheaper. · Sport button – check it works, i.e. activates Sport mode with a single press (shows under rev counter when on). Suspension · Drop links & ARB bushes – listen for knocking when driving. Known to wear quickly but are cheap to replace. Fit poly ARB bushes for longer life. · Wishbones - bushes in wishbones can be replaced, but the ball joints cannot – requires a whole new wishbone. Exterior Bodywork / Trim · Headlights - lacquer peel. Can be re-lacquered (DIY or dealer) or fitted with UV resistant PPF · LED sidelights – within the headlight unit. The LEDs can fail, believe it can be fixed by repairing the board rather than a full headlight replacement. · Mudflap brackets – originals are mild steel and will rust/rot due to moisture retained by wheel arch liners. Stainless replacements are available. · Trim cracking - A-pillar and ‘sail’ panel (between roof and rear window) – check for cracks as this is common. Great replacement guide here: https://www.midlandslotus.co.uk/forum/topic/67111-evora-cracked-a-pillar-trim/ Interior & ICE · Seats - wear to leather on pre-MY2012 cars, especially on side bolsters. · Dashboard - Passenger airbag cover lifts at edges with exposure to heat/UV - whole dash needs to be removed to replace the clips. Can be prevented by covering windscreen when parked in the sun (not sure if you can just cover the airbag cover). · Instrument binnacle leather - panel in front of the stitched one can lift · Alpine head unit – ‘Blackbird’ mobile satnav unit can fail, leading to sat nav no longer working. Best to change the whole thing for a Pioneer / Carplay unit is it’s terrible anyway! · Door pull covers – can work loose. Other · Door seals – check footwells for damp. Window/waist seals, and door shut seals can cause leaks into footwells and also cause failure of the window regulators/motors. Uprated seals fitted from MY2012. · Boot seal – check boot carpet for signs of damp/leaks. Carpet is joined to rubber seal causing leaks, also gap in seal at top. Poss fix to turn it round to gap is at bottom? · Geo/Alignment – check when it was last done, it makes a huge difference to handling
  11. Were the leaky boot issues resolved with later cars, 2012 onwards perhaps?
  12. Good to hear the door seals are cheap. Is that the revised ones Bibs? James - I was looking at one yesterday local to me, and was told that the Persian blue one is a bit rough around the edges, assuming you're looking at this one https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202011045795810?model=EVORA&radius=1501&advertising-location=at_cars&make=LOTUS&postcode=cv130rj&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&include-delivery-option=on&sort=relevance&page=1 So perhaps there is room for some negotiation.....or if it's just not good enough, just walk away. Hope you get on OK with it anyway.
  13. I think the pre 2012 cars can leak via the door seals though can't they, leading to damp carpets in the footwells? One I looked at this week was damp in the boot too.
  14. I've been looking at Evoras recently (2009-12 mostly) and noticed on a few photos (and also in the flesh) that the 255/35 R19 tyres on the forged rear alloys look a bit 'stretched' - like the tyres aren't wide enough basically. They don't seem to fill the arches very well, and I think that's more down to the tyre width, rather than the fact it's the 19" wheel rather than the 20". This isn't the case with the fronts. Has anyone else thought this, and has anyone fitted wider tyres on the forged wheels, and if so, any issues? Or is it perhaps just down to certain tyres running 'narrower' than others, this isn't uncommon - the ones I've seen in the flesh had Pirelli's on. According to www.tyresize.com, fitting 265/35/19 instead of 255/35/19 gives you a diameter and circumference that's only 1.2% larger, with a speedo error of only 0.9mph at 80mph. No idea what tyres are available in that size though..... These are the wheels I'm talking about... https://www.prestigewheelcentre.co.uk/blog/2014/05/lotus-evora-alloy-wheel-refinished-to-high-gloss-black/
  15. Thanks Gav - useful stuff !
  16. It has now sold, this afternoon (but not to me!). Thanks for all the input everyone.
  17. Thanks, what about things like suspension bushes, ball joints etc though? Surely they would need changing after 90k miles and don’t you have to replace the whole wishbone (at the front) for some of them? Would be expensive, no?
  18. Haha, thanks, yes indeed I am aware, might need a good clean 🤔
  19. Cheers Bibs.....yes that’s the one I’ve been looking at. I’ve got a load of info from the seller about it. Has several things that need addressing though. My main concern would be resale, due to it being both an IPS and high mileage, and the risk of big bills - potentially on the gearbox or something like that. Having had a string of Elise S1's (my current two are actually featured in the latest issue of Absolute Lotus!) I'm not used to chunky bills or high maintenance costs. Evoras are much more complex of course. So it needs to be something I can justify, if that makes sense. What about stuff like steering rack, suspension bushes, shocks etc at that mileage? It has done 92k..
  20. I haven’t been on TLF for a while, since selling my Exige V6 a year or so ago. I’m now finding myself considering an Evora S IPS, but my budget means I’m limited to high mileage examples, but post 2012 to get the better interior and other improvements. Are there any known issues with the IPS box, or anything to watch out for in general, on higher mileage cars? I’ve read the buyers guide on here and am already aware of things like headlight lacquer peel etc. Seems that the IPS cars are a harder sell, and I presume with lots of miles on the clock (say over 80k) it would be something that I’d need to pick up fairly cheaply to cover off the fact that resale wouldn’t exactly be straightforward.... Up to now I’ve had five Elise S1's and the Exige V6, so I don’t know much about Evoras. I’ve driven an SR (NA) and a GT430 briefly, both were manual though. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.
  21. I’ve spoken to the seller this afternoon. Seems honest enough but there’s no service book. There are some invoices from 2014-17 for servicing (just a regular garage local to 2nd owner, not a main dealer or Lotus specialist) but that’s only 3 out of 9 years. Plus, the servicing hasn’t been done every 9,000 miles. No evidence of clutch replacement at all in the invoices and he has no knowledge of any replacement (he’s had it 9 months). Could be some big bills awaiting the new owner potentially. Apparently there are 'no stones chips at all' so something doesn’t quite add up unless it has had a full front end respray, either to tidy it up or because of a prang.. I’m waiting for more info and photos before deciding either way about perhaps going to see it. Calipers mentioned in ad is incorrect, they haven’t been replaced. It’s one of those you’d have to go into with your eyes open, expecting some bills (possibly really big ones). Clutches are on back order until the spring.
  22. That isn’t vivid.....😜 (this is the Elise S1 Picture thread, right?)..
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