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Posts posted by Daveb99

  1. Cheers Justin, maybe I’d be better to get a set of Michelin Pilot Sport 4S (assuming the car I buy has Pirelli’s) as they seem to get good reviews and perform better in the cold than the P-Zeros.

    He wants £450 for the set of wheels including the winter tyres.  Wondering if it’s perhaps worth getting them anyway and giving them a go.  Like you say though, they are going to be way past their best at 8 years old.

  2. Been looking at Evoras recently so I can enjoy year round use more etc (and I’ve always fancied one!)

    I haven’t got one just yet but with the cold temperatures we’ve had it has got me thinking about winter tyres.

    I’ve had an offer of a set of the cast 18/19” standard Evora wheels, fitted with winter tyres for a decent price.   Wheels in great condition.  Tyres though are dated 2012 but have been stored correctly indoors and have 5.5 - 7.5mm tread.  They are Yoko W Drive tyres, and aren’t showing any signs of perishing or cracking anywhere from what I can see.

    So the question is, are the tyres too old to be of any use?  If not, how long should I use them for (ie how many winters) before I need to bin them, even if there is decent tread left on them?    I guess they will probably still perform better than P-Zeros below say 10C, despite their age....?   

    Or - If I buy them just for the wheels, what would a set of these wheels be worth?  They were refurbished 6 years ago but look to be in very good order, just a few scuffs and a bit of corrosion on the inside rims (on the back).


  3. 22 hours ago, Barrykearley said:

    It did Indeed @C8RKH. Sold swiftly as well - but it was priced aggressively to move the car on - and had I not had a great deal when I bought it - for sure it would have been up for more. Unbelievably two people still umm’d and arr’d over the car before the chap whom bought it. That stunned me frankly - it should without doubt have sold to the first person to see it. 
    There is a LE at silverstone for £30k and frankly that’s what the competition was. 

    Guess that probably tells us where the market’s at.  I personally do think it was probably worth the money but for me - as I was one of the two umm and arrers - in the end I wasn’t keen on the colour, just a bit too ‘warm’ in the grey range, like a light beige.  I was surprised at that - it was moreso in the flesh than in photos.  Totally subjective of course and as long as the new owner likes it that’s cool (or warm, depending....!) 👍🏻

    You also took a deposit and sold it to the new owner the next day before waiting for me to confirm either way as we agreed, remember 🤣😉😉

    3 minutes ago, Barrykearley said:

    Yes - because eventually they will drop the price and sell to someone whom buys on finance and they will get a commission on it. The reality is an Evora is a great car and older models are largely protected from depreciation.

    Spot on.

    • Like 1
  4. 2 hours ago, EGTE said:

    You've got AU10 BHN in there twice.

    I think it was sold earlier in the year and is now up for sale again.

    11 minutes ago, Bruss said:

    As it's that time of year what are the predictions for the future value of my car?

    Probably worth around 40K now on its best day, how much will it be worth in two years time? (Mileage unchanged due to Covid)



    What’s the mileage, colour, spec, year?

  5. 14 minutes ago, jamesbilluk said:

    This really annoying. Even starting to regret buying it :( which I shouldn't. Especially when I made sure to check both windows on the day of purchase, and both worked fine (except passenger side drop) 

    I'm hoping its an easy fix, like battery, and that the garage tomorrow can sort it, don't want it with a wide open window during this rain... 

    Really hope it's not going to be an ongoing thing.. 

    Is it your daily, living outside, or garaged?

  6. 1 hour ago, jamesbilluk said:

    Just gave it a try now, suddenly it started moving up in Jerks, so managed to get it to the top. Popped round, took my bin liner off, opened the door to get the key, and the sodding window went all the way down!! So I'm much worse off now, falling out of love with this already! 

    Sounds like a nightmare.  Just when you should be enjoying it you just want to kick it!

    Does anyone know if there is a permanent fix for the window issues, or does a new part fail over time just like the old one did?

  7. 3 minutes ago, exeterjeep said:

    My gt430 had a RH window regulator - just before i bought it. The part number fitted was C132B4052F at a cost of around £360. B&C also paid a VOR surcharge to get it quickly. Labour charge was £55. 

    Wow, so I can understand early cars having issues like this, but after new seals on the 2012 cars onwards, and then further revisions with the 400 onwards, we still can’t park the car outside in the rain without the risk of window regulator failure?   On a £100k GT430?   


  8. 1 hour ago, Barrykearley said:

    Start the car and see if it works. These modules are sadly known to fail - normally due to water ingress. You may be able to get it to work by simply trying again. If it does go up - leave it 🤣

    Does this happen also on MY12 cars onwards?   I was led to believe they have improved seals on the doors, do they still leak?

  9. James, if it is the battery, I think in your shoes I’d be asking the garage your bought it from to pay for a new one.  They shouldn’t be letting batteries get completely flat, and sometimes going this causes irreparable damage to it, such that it won’t retain a full charge any more.

  10. Congrats, looks good.   Tip for cleaning the oyster leather, try Autoglym Interior Shampoo.  Works a treat to remove the inevitable marking from your jeans.

    Was this the one that had a new clutch recently?    Does look great in the blue, quite unusual and very striking.

  11. I've recently started looking at Evoras, mostly the low end of the market (sub £30k), and although I've decided to park the idea for now, and keep my S1 Elise, I have come across and been told about a good few things to watch out for.    I thought it would be worth sharing to help others with their search for a good one.  At the very least it will ensure potential buyers go into it with their eyes open.

    Happy to edit / add to this as I'm sure there are a few other things too - clearly there are dozens of owners on here amongst you, who have years of experience with these great cars...

    Mechanical / Electrical

    ·      Clutch - longevity varies, usually requires changing between 30 - 50k miles, but can vary with driving style, usage, and pot luck.  £2.5k - £3.5k for replacement.  Unsure if any early warning signs can be detected.

    ·      Gear linkage cables - upgraded from MY2012 on.  Early cars had issues with the original cables.

    ·      Pulleys/tensioner - Check pulleys in engine bay, listen for rumbling or squeaking sound on right side of engine, bearings get dry in the tensioner - if the belt is moving side to side when idling it’s a sign also.   New tensioner is £200 for the part plus lots of labour.

    ·      IPS transmission fluid – very important to ensure the correct Toyota fluid has been used – it’s expensive.  Other fluid can cause shifting issues.

    ·      IPS TCU (Transmission Control Unit) – check it has been upgraded to the latest software.

    ·      Starter motor – known to fail.   Check if replaced at all.

    ·      Catalytic convertors – the 2 cats near the manifold (“mani-cats”) can get too hot and lead to a MIL warning light.

    ·      Headlight washer motors  - known to fail.

    ·      TPMS valves – batteries get low with age, also when tyres are changed, they need to be released into the wheel before the tyre is removed.  

    ·      Aluminium covered ducting /chimney – from engine to vent at rear of roof – ally covering comes off with age.

    ·      Door electrics – Check the door handles work properly - they can fail but are quite cheap.  Window regulators can also fail – check the windows drop a little when opening the door.  Microswitches in the door lock fail.   Central locking failures.  Some of these parts are on back order….

    ·      Air con – check it blows cold.  A/C compressor is a common failure and is expensive - £2k part from Lotus, can be bought cheaper.

    ·      Sport button – check it works, i.e. activates Sport mode with a single press (shows under rev counter when on).



    ·      Drop links & ARB bushes – listen for knocking when driving.  Known to wear quickly but are cheap to replace.  Fit poly ARB bushes for longer life.

    ·      Wishbones - bushes in wishbones can be replaced, but the ball joints cannot – requires a whole new wishbone.


    Exterior Bodywork / Trim

    ·      Headlights - lacquer peel.  Can be re-lacquered (DIY or dealer) or fitted with UV resistant PPF

    ·      LED sidelights – within the headlight unit.   The LEDs can fail, believe it can be fixed by repairing the board rather than a full headlight replacement.

    ·      Mudflap brackets – originals are mild steel and will rust/rot due to moisture retained by wheel arch liners.  Stainless replacements are available.

    ·      Trim cracking - A-pillar and ‘sail’ panel (between roof and rear window) – check for cracks as this is common.  Great replacement guide here:


    Interior & ICE

    ·      Seats - wear to leather on pre-MY2012 cars, especially on side bolsters.   

    ·      Dashboard - Passenger airbag cover lifts at edges with exposure to heat/UV - whole dash needs to be removed to replace the clips.   Can be prevented by covering windscreen when parked in the sun (not sure if you can just cover the airbag cover).  

    ·      Instrument binnacle leather - panel in front of the stitched one can lift

    ·      Alpine head unit – ‘Blackbird’ mobile satnav unit can fail, leading to sat nav no longer working.  Best to change the whole thing for a Pioneer / Carplay unit is it’s terrible anyway!

    ·      Door pull covers – can work loose.



    ·      Door seals – check footwells for damp.  Window/waist seals, and door shut seals can cause leaks into footwells and also cause failure of the window regulators/motors.  Uprated seals fitted from MY2012.

    ·      Boot seal – check boot carpet for signs of damp/leaks.  Carpet is joined to rubber seal causing leaks, also gap in seal at top.  Poss fix to turn it round to gap is at bottom?

    ·      Geo/Alignment – check when it was last done, it makes a huge difference to handling

  12. 14 minutes ago, Cdm2018 said:

    My car lives outside and beside a long standing boot leaks which 3 dealers and friends on here have tried to resolve still have it ☹️
    I did purchase a cheapie car cover for during mega bad snow times otherwise it seems fine especially as I drive the car only once or twice a week. Sunshade def required in summer , but also i park under some trees so car is covered in sap or bird poo so constantly need to wash the car.  

    Were the leaky boot issues resolved with later cars, 2012 onwards perhaps?

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