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About martynw

  • Birthday 14/10/1969

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  1. I did a lot of mine with a Stanley knife. I didn't try to force the blade in deep or cut it all in one go, just kept slicing it over and over and picking out the thin shreds I created. I also pulled the copper wire with pliers to pull more threads off and eventually put a thin stainless steel wire through. Took a couple of hours but essentially I just wore the thing down I think.
  2. Solved the vertical alignment now and body fixings all in place. It does look a bit like a monster truck version of an Esprit. The missing front spoiler/rear valance don't help and I hope as I refit all the bits that are missing and the car gets heavier it will settle down a bit. But glad to have got that job done without scratching the paintwork.
  3. It is done. Lessons learned are largely about taking what the bloody manual says with a pinch of salt. I agree with Steve and Tim above, it is the transmission tunnel fixings that set the level, so these are what you fiddle with. I didn't get that from the manual at all. The manual tells you to lower the body on so 11 and 12 are aligned with the body bobbins (13 and 14 if you have a federal car). There is no mention of spacers for these fixings, but both my Esprits had two 10mm aluminium spacers to insert on each side, lifting the body 20mm off the rear chassis beam. You can see them in the picture of my S3 above, though that furry corrosion made me think I was looking for fibre or plastic spacers. I found the original spacers for the Turbo in the bottom of a load of engine parts, tightly wrapped in masking tape which was probably once a label but wasn't any more. I've added a couple of photos below. Once the newly-found rear spacers were in place and bolts dropped through (but not tightened) to locate the body at 11 and 12, aligning the fixings in the side of the transmission tunnel (5-8) was fairly straightforward. A few jacks under the jacking points enabled me to ease the body up and down a few mm to get everything lined up right. I then inserted the bolts and fitted the nuts loosely. I used small stacks of large penny washers as spacers at the front (1-4), which was all fairly straightforward. The manual says the holes in the chassis for these fixings should be drilled through the bobbin holes once the body is sitting in place. Were I doing it again, I might weld up the original holes up and redrill like this. As it was they lined up fairly well, though I used a burr to grind out less than 1mm of material to get the bolt through on two of the holes. I'll do 10 and 11 tomorrow - as Steve says, these are slots anyway and I'll put some spacers in here which (other than access) and will be easy. Then I'll go back to following the manual to tighten fixings from front to back.
  4. Still struggling to get the body aligned - sorted the front to back and side to side alignment, but it is vertical alignment that isn't working well now. Full details posted in the technical section here if anyone can help out.
  5. Bit more help needed on this if anyone can. Back just before lockdown started and I stopped working on the Esprit (feels like about 15 years ago) I got the body aligned on the chassis so bolts 1 and 2 at the front and 11 and 12 at the back could be fitted (see diagram from manual below). Now I've started again I need to get it aligned vertically so the bolts that through the side of the transmission tunnel and into the spine of the chassis (5,6,7 and 8 on the diagram) can also be fitted. I was a bit alarmed just how far out they were when I attempted this today. I had read about possible need for spacers on bolts 1 and 2 in the manual, and had added a 2mm spacer on bolt No 2. However on lifting the body high enough to get the bolts through the tunnel in meant I needed about a 22m spacer. Looking at the S3 I bought all in one piece, it is clear the spacers are not supposed to be anything like this size. However I did discover that the S3 has two hefty spacers at the back of the car between the body and chassis which in total lift the body up by about 25mm (see photo). These get no mention in the manual, nor can I find them anywhere on the parts list. So does anyone know if they are the same on all cars, or is choose to fit? And as I don't have any, does anyone know what material are they made from?
  6. Right, back to it today. Had some time off during lockdown but restarted last week by putting a load of new lights in the workshop. That was partly because they were an eBay bargain (23 industrial high bay LED lights for £120) and partly the equivalent of sharpening all your pencils before revising because you know you've forgotten everything you had already done. But no more prevaricating. Here goes. Only slight problem is I may lose the car for a few days as the front bumper needs some reshaping. It was fitted to the old, poor quality wing repair by the PO sanding a bit off it. Now I have beautiful repairs, that bit needs putting back on. It's a tiny gap, but needs to be right. Only a small job and there will be parts I can work on while it is away. Hope everyone else is keeping well.
  7. Sorry Neil I do need them. I did find two in the box of bits and fitted them, but they felt a bit easy before I started and I'm not convinced they would even slow it down if you let go, far less hold the thing up. And thanks Dan - I've sent you a message.
  8. Other big step is that the body is back on the chassis. Feels such a big step then 5 minutes after you have stood back and admired it, you realise how much more there is to do yet.
  9. Slow progress again, and with recent events not that likely to speed up sadly. The window frames were a pig of a job - I'm no great welder and that thin, fiddly material is not a best stuff to practice on. However with a lot of patience I got new metal into all the badly rotted sections and got the whole thing solid again. I was concerned the rust had got into the seams where the metal on the outer part of the frame doubles back on itself and would therefore just come through again. I therefore laboriously soaked every section in rust remover in containers made from sewage pipes and guttering because soaking the whole door would need a huge tank. For a final treatment I used POR 15 products to etch and paint the inside surfaces of the frames and hopefully seal those seams up. Both frames are now in primer until I get some black satin paint. Few pictures below.
  10. Well the idea of doing it tomorrow took a knock, like pretty much everyone's planning these days. However I have had another go - a bit of jacking up the front with two trolley jacks and persuading it over a bit got the front holes (1 and 2) as well lined up as I could, and a with a millimetre or so ground off the edges of those holes I have got the bolts through and aligned. One needed a spacer. Given the holes were drilled to fit originally, and I have done some fibreglass repair work in the front boot I am happy with how it is aligning. I've ordered some of the 32mm washers to finish it off, and will need an extra pair of hands because unlike when the body is off, it is pretty difficult to have one hand on a spanner on each end of these bolts. At least with schools shut I will have a helper. Keep safe everyone.
  11. That is just what I need - thank you. Will report back tomorrow when I have had more of a look.
  12. Enjoyed that video - almost as much a period classic as the car is. However I'm past that part. I can see how going front first would get you past the top wishbone nut but taking it off works fine too and my two post lift won't do tilting (which is probably just as well). It's just knowing whether the body is now sitting OK and I can simply bolt it on, or if I should be checking alignment in any way and adding packing shims or washers.
  13. I've found a few write ups on here about how to remove the body from an Esprit, but failed to find one on how to put it back on. I've got mine resting back on now, but struggling with aligning a few bits and pieces - intially the front upper wishbone bolts. I aligned the body with plumb bobs from the outer two bolts on the front and back, and got that spot on. But how close should I expect the to be on other connections. I've also seen mention of people replacing body shims as they were when they removed them. Bit awkward for me that as I bought it in bits.... Any tips gratefully recieved.
  14. For various reasons, not much has happened lately. However getting back to it now. Have reassembled the rear part of the body (spoiler/bumper/lights/boot catches/rear quarterlights etc) but been held up on the front as a previous owner "modified" the bumper meaning it needs building up a bit to get good fit lines on it. Seems it is hard to do much in the front before you get the bumper on so saving this until the body is all back on the chassis and easier to move than it is when on its modified shopping trolley. So for now, the body is still on the lift with the chassis sitting underneath. I need a couple of extra eyes and a bit more courage to help me lower it down and make sure it lands in the right place. In the meantime, I've stripped the door frames down. They have the usual corrosion problem, one quite bad. Seems you can't get new ones so much miserable paint scraping prior to patching. I notice the frames are brazed in places - any advice from people who have repaired these as to whether brazing patch pieces is better than welding them? They metal is so thin so I am a bit worried about distortion. Few pics below to bring things up to date anyway.
  15. It's a Marcos GT. Originally a 2-litre but got a 3-litre Ford Essex engine in it. Another project but relegated now the Esprit is back.
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