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About martynw

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  • Birthday 14/10/1969

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  1. These look promising - though inevitably I have left the barrel in the garage so not quite sure which size would suit. Will give them a call tomorrow.
  2. The barrel is pretty much destroyed because I had to be drill it out as the keys didn't work. I needed to get the car off to the paintshop so had to remove the fuel caps and the filler necks ready for a respray. I don't know if they were seized up or if I had the wrong keys, but either way it cannot be reused. That picture is of the better one - the other is in two pieces. At least now I know it is a WASO one I can try searching harder online, or go to plan B which is having non-locking filler caps. Thanks for confirming anyway.
  3. Thanks Fabian - I do have a WASO key on the key ring, but can't find WASO stamped on any of the parts of the mechanism I have left (the actual caps are at the sprayshop - but they are clearly specific to Lotus anyway). Given the key didn't open the locks, I'm still not sure the mechanism is a WASO one - would you be able to you confirm it from these pictures? As you can see, the lock barrel is going to need a bit more than just lubricating now, though in my defence, I did try that first of course. I've searched for some WASO spares online, but it looks like I may have to buy a whole cap and transplant the barrels - which is made more awkward by needing two and not really wanting two filler cap keys. Have you had any luck finding spares for them?
  4. Body safely delivered to the paint shop - its not going to be a quick turnaround, but that is OK. In the meantime I am trying to locate all the various bits I'll need when it is sprayed to make it look like new. Waistline trim, new windscreen + trim and, decals etc are all fairly easy. The few bits I am struggling with are Are the aluminium E-approval stickers in the front boot and the VIN number sticker that goes in the front windscreen available? I've found a different E-approval label for sale at Lotusbits (along with the spare wheel sticker) here but the one I need is copied below. I either had the wrong key for the petrol caps, or they were corroded solid. Either way, it took bloody hours to get them off and in the process I wrecked the lock barrels (drills do that...). I have found the key cover bit from SJSportscars, ( so worst case can do a bodge that looks right but doesn't actually lock. However I expect the lock is standard to other cars - any tips? Last thing to do on the chassis is secure the oil cooler pipes - still not found where these are usually fixed so any tips appreciated. Then it is just waiting until it is all ready to put it back together.
  5. The body made a brief foray into daylight today before being winched onto a trailer ready to go off for a spray. Will have to sit on the trailer for a week or so before I can get it over there but feels like progress just having it ready to go.
  6. I'll be keeping it original and red. I figured a frame would lengthen the wheel base a bit which will make it easier to pull it up onto my trailer.
  7. OK, it is only a temporary chassis, to which I've now attached some massive castors to so I can get the body off the two post lift and wheel it into the workshop and open the doors. I've spent quite a while with the glassfibre, reinforcing and repairing cracks in the front boot, particularly around the various holes. That now all looks very solid again. However I am going to need to redrill lots of the holes having glassed straight over the top and/or bottom. Then I've been stripping the body down for a respray. I've finished the offside now - those rear quarter light windows are a real sod. However pretty pleased to have got window frames out and all the trim off without damaging any. Now I need to spin the car around and do the near side. I think I'll remove the electric window regulator this time - I worked round it on the first side and have the scuffed knuckles to prove it. While I plan to strip pretty much everything off for the respray, I am was going to leave the windscreen in, just pull the trim off around it so the paint can go right under that and refit new trim afterwards. Similarly, I think I will leave the rear louvres in, but pick out the sealant before spraying the red and black parts and then hide the join under new sealant. The metal trim strips along the edge of the roof and rubber around the seam in the body will both be replaced with new. Hoping to get it off to the paint shop by the end of next week.
  8. Various other things have got in the way a bit, but progress continues. Inspired by the Marcos I have awaiting restoration, I've built a wooden chassis for the Esprit.
  9. one of these might be handy to keep the frost of your screen. And if you do buy one, please let me know how those magnets work.
  10. Well spotted. Had quite a while on the phone with Pete as he tried to work out if his pipes were US ones or not and didn't he did seem to be struggling to find the difference. After lots of careful measuring I am 99% sure the fitting is 1/4" BSP so will call at the local hose specialist tomorrow to try and get a new olive and compression fitting. I'd prefer not to have to disturb the fitting from the compressor housing, and there is sufficient slack (or at least length to gently bend) in the pipe to cut the current fitting off and put on a new one - as I am pretty sure that olive won't slide off. Will put a note here if that is right, otherwise the SJ part is a good fallback.
  11. Chassis wise, it is now all but finished. Just two final little problems to sort if anyone can help. First, I managed to get a boost control pipe (from the turbo to the wastegate) from PNM, but it has male pipe fittings at both ends and I need a female at the turbo end. If anyone knows the thread I would appreciate it - the male thread on the turbo fitting has outside diameter 13.1mm and seems to have a pitch of 1.25mm, but I suspect it is a BSP or imperial thread. The thread is coarser then that currently on the current pipe though. Second, I've threaded the new pipes for the oil cooler through the chassis and attached them to the oil thermostat, but I've read they should be secured with cable-ties in the chassis tunnel. Could someone let me know where they were originally fixed - to the aluminium radiator feed pipes or using the holes in the side of the chassis? Next to sort is a complete respray of the body. Think I have found someone good but still waiting for a final quote on it. That will leave me with a finished chassis, body and refurbed interior, and just the tiny little job of fitting them all together. What could possibly go wrong?
  12. Bit more progress to report. The radiator/oil cooler/condenser assembly is now pretty much repaired and complete. The one from this Turbo arrived as a box of bits (as did almost everything) but I also removed the entire assembly from an late NA S3 I had and have repaired and combined the best bits into one complete assembly for the Turbo. Just need a few fittings so I can check the condenser is not leaking before fixing it in place as I don't fancy changing it once it is all fitted back on the car. I decided to keep the Turbo fairly original - so reused the original fans and the old ABS shroud which, after some plastic welding and a major rust removal and refit of the metal hoops, has turned out pretty well. One of the blades is white rather than orange, but I can live with that. The NA will need a complete radiator recore, and I'll fit Spal-type fans once it is done. Also found much cheaper oil cooler replacement on eBay made by Motamec which was a relief after the oil hoses welded themselves to the old one thanks to the steel/aluminium mix. I do have what looks like a custom fabricated bracket for three of the original type fans that came with the Turbo, and somewhere a box of three fans that would fit it. If this is useful to anyone, then make me an offer. Otherwise I may customise the frame to take the Spal fans as a separate assembly.
  13. Grateful to find this thread before I pulled the diff out thinking I could both sort the handbrake adjustment and put new seals in the output shafts to fix a slight weeps. Actually discovered a previous owner had done the funnel/drain hole fix, but one of the pop rivets had failed, allowing some diff oil to contaminate the pads (not much, but had been a slight worry). That was a quick and easy fix, so decided cutting a hatch was the way to go to sort the handbrake. Thought this picture showing the funnel arrangement might be handy if anyone else stumbles on the thread like I did.
  14. Is it a turbo or the naturally aspirated one? I have an NA waiting to be restored which has a sunroof - if borrowing it was of any help you can let me know, but I obviously can't spare it on a permanent basis. Look forward to the pics.
  15. Bit of a slow week for various reasons, but turbo and wastegate are now fitted - alignment problem solved by rotating the compressor housing. I found the heat shield that sits between the turbo and cylinder in one of my boxes but it was pretty broken up, so I drew round it and cut out two thin pieces of steel and am using all three in a sandwich arrangement. Filing them into identical shapes also kept my son quiet for a while as it was half term. Fixed a gearbox leak from the back plate too - it wasn't a big one but access is so easy at the moment it seemed silly not to. Also cleaned up the fuel pressure regulator and associated pipework fitted it and the dump valve on the plenum. The original fixing stubs on the regulator had broken off, but a previous owner had fabricated a little aluminium bracket to replace them. It is not very pretty but works and is fine for now. So a bit more progress, but sorting the underside of the body is the next job before I can put the two bits back together. I've got most of the old stonechip off the front now - it did seem to go from the "peeling badly/needs to come off" to "stuck like mad/impossible to remove" quite quickly. Not a pleasant job, but thank god I have a lift. I'm thinking I'll leave exhausts off and fit once the body is back on. Which means that bar a couple hoses etc that I need to order then fit (turbo oil feed/final heating hose) I think I have done everything I need to on the engine and chassis. Do shout if you think I've missed something obvious. Compressor looks to be this way up in the parts manual? Probably not a big issue anyway as I will need to make up new hoses, so should be able to sort it out.
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