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Everything posted by martynw

  1. Sorry Neil I do need them. I did find two in the box of bits and fitted them, but they felt a bit easy before I started and I'm not convinced they would even slow it down if you let go, far less hold the thing up. And thanks Dan - I've sent you a message.
  2. Other big step is that the body is back on the chassis. Feels such a big step then 5 minutes after you have stood back and admired it, you realise how much more there is to do yet.
  3. Slow progress again, and with recent events not that likely to speed up sadly. The window frames were a pig of a job - I'm no great welder and that thin, fiddly material is not a best stuff to practice on. However with a lot of patience I got new metal into all the badly rotted sections and got the whole thing solid again. I was concerned the rust had got into the seams where the metal on the outer part of the frame doubles back on itself and would therefore just come through again. I therefore laboriously soaked every section in rust remover in containers made from sewage pipes and guttering because soaking the whole door would need a huge tank. For a final treatment I used POR 15 products to etch and paint the inside surfaces of the frames and hopefully seal those seams up. Both frames are now in primer until I get some black satin paint. Few pictures below.
  4. Well the idea of doing it tomorrow took a knock, like pretty much everyone's planning these days. However I have had another go - a bit of jacking up the front with two trolley jacks and persuading it over a bit got the front holes (1 and 2) as well lined up as I could, and a with a millimetre or so ground off the edges of those holes I have got the bolts through and aligned. One needed a spacer. Given the holes were drilled to fit originally, and I have done some fibreglass repair work in the front boot I am happy with how it is aligning. I've ordered some of the 32mm washers to finish it off, and will need an extra pair of hands because unlike when the body is off, it is pretty difficult to have one hand on a spanner on each end of these bolts. At least with schools shut I will have a helper. Keep safe everyone.
  5. That is just what I need - thank you. Will report back tomorrow when I have had more of a look.
  6. Enjoyed that video - almost as much a period classic as the car is. However I'm past that part. I can see how going front first would get you past the top wishbone nut but taking it off works fine too and my two post lift won't do tilting (which is probably just as well). It's just knowing whether the body is now sitting OK and I can simply bolt it on, or if I should be checking alignment in any way and adding packing shims or washers.
  7. I've found a few write ups on here about how to remove the body from an Esprit, but failed to find one on how to put it back on. I've got mine resting back on now, but struggling with aligning a few bits and pieces - intially the front upper wishbone bolts. I aligned the body with plumb bobs from the outer two bolts on the front and back, and got that spot on. But how close should I expect the to be on other connections. I've also seen mention of people replacing body shims as they were when they removed them. Bit awkward for me that as I bought it in bits.... Any tips gratefully recieved.
  8. For various reasons, not much has happened lately. However getting back to it now. Have reassembled the rear part of the body (spoiler/bumper/lights/boot catches/rear quarterlights etc) but been held up on the front as a previous owner "modified" the bumper meaning it needs building up a bit to get good fit lines on it. Seems it is hard to do much in the front before you get the bumper on so saving this until the body is all back on the chassis and easier to move than it is when on its modified shopping trolley. So for now, the body is still on the lift with the chassis sitting underneath. I need a couple of extra eyes and a bit more courage to help me lower it down and make sure it lands in the right place. In the meantime, I've stripped the door frames down. They have the usual corrosion problem, one quite bad. Seems you can't get new ones so much miserable paint scraping prior to patching. I notice the frames are brazed in places - any advice from people who have repaired these as to whether brazing patch pieces is better than welding them? They metal is so thin so I am a bit worried about distortion. Few pics below to bring things up to date anyway.
  9. It's a Marcos GT. Originally a 2-litre but got a 3-litre Ford Essex engine in it. Another project but relegated now the Esprit is back.
  10. I'm quite pleased with number 2020 though - it has a certain ring to it.
  11. Fallen behind with updates again, but picked the body up and got it back to my workshop today. I'll need a second trip to collect bonnet/bumpers/wing mirrors etc tomorrow but here is what I have now. Very impressed with the work and now terrified at the prospect of having to reassemble it all while never dropping a spanner. Still at least the main body/doors/boot are back without incident. Slightly random collection of pictures from the body shop and finally back home in my workshop.
  12. Man in Seat 61 is always good for planning train journeys - we did the summer car-train to the Dolomites last year using his advice. Looks like you can get to Innsubruck on it at that time of year.
  13. Wonder if I wasn't being clear enough. I didn't express a view - fashionable or otherwise - on Brexit itself. The unfashionable bit was sticking up for MPs who I still believe usually do what they think is best, not what lines their pockets/advances their careers etc etc. It's true that it was triggered by things written about the 21 yesterday who far from benefitting have likely ended their careers, but I also think it applies to most of those taking exactly the opposite view. I'm pretty sure sticking up for MPs isn't fashionable inside or outside of the M25. And on Labour/AS, the idea it was in the headlines because it was tearing the capital apart is nonsense. It was in the headlines because powerful people in the media and politics made sure it was there.
  14. I try to apply a bit of logic to this, and have to say the 20 odd rebels probably didn't do this for their own interests. They've just ended their own careers/salaries etc. I have no.interest in trying to persuade people to be pro or anti Brexit, me no one ever changes their mind. But I do like to give most people enough credit to accept they are doing what they think is best for people/the UK. But this js a terribly unfashionable view, so you can all tell me to f*** off.
  15. I got mine off pretty easily after warming it with a hairdryer and using a thin bladed paint scraper. As Pete says above, SJ have replacement glass, but they are about £20 a go with the VAT so there is an incentive to go steady. I checked they were in stock before starting. Mine had the convex glass so the plastic would be OK, but not quite so good. I needed to dismantle.mine as I am having a respray and the paint would him up the join from stalk to mirror housing. I have sent photos to a 3d printer to see what they think they can do - should have an indication on price soon if anyone is interested.
  16. I brought home the wing mirrors from that visit so I could dismantle them for spraying and get the blame if I broke the glass. Actually after a good warm up, it came out pretty easily. I know how rare these mirrors are now, and have contacted a 3D-printer about scanning and reprinting them. I'm waiting for their feedback on how well this may work, but if anyone is interested drop me a line. So on Friday I returned the two parts of the mirror that need spraying (and a bit of a repair on the corner of the drivers one which is cracked, but it has plenty of room to get some epoxy to reinforced it from the inside) and was in time to see the car in its final paint. Well sort of anyway - it was just being finished off and opening the oven door didn't seem a great idea. So this is as much as I could see through the windows. I guess it is good to know they got the colour right.
  17. By the end of last week the body was mostly in primer, and covered in a guide coat. for final finishing. Previous poor repairs were ground back and redone. Seam built back up by way of a jig. All coming along nicely. Spoiler was off revealing the engraved chassis number. It also looks like the car was originally assembled by Andy, should anyone know him. By the time I left, the final wet flatting was getting underway on the rear NS quarter. Amazing how removing the guide coat makes it look so much more finished.
  18. Managed to get a few more updates over the summer, finishing with a tease last Friday. What I didn't manage to do was get any of the pics off the camera and on here. So here goes. Starting back in mid-July with much more paint off, and a few more problems exposed, but nothing that can't be fixed. Some fairly poor fibreglass work below the seam on the front corner that had been quite expertly filled over the top, but will all be ground back and reglassed. The seam itself was a bit of a state so will be built back up as well to take the new rubber trim. Rear quarters all looking very solid - just some of the minor cracks to fix that only appear after spraying with panel wipe. Doors/bumpers/splitter etc all coming along nicely.
  19. Exactly what I am searching for information on, as I'm trying to do the same thing. Which mirrors were they, and did you (or anyone else) work it out? I have the older mirrors on the right.
  20. My gearbox support was off, and as others have said, the front end was up on stands. It is possible you could get it in past the support, but my experience was that if it only takes a few bolts to get something out of the way and give you a bit more room to wiggle it in, it's worth doing. The engine goes in at quite a steep angle with the gearbox low, then you level it up and lower it down in small steps. My suspicion is the gearbox follows an arc into the transmission tunnel as this happens, which is why I'd take the support off.
  21. Done it. Yes I know I said I'd leave it until I had a helper but it's hard ignoring it and doing something else in the workshop while it sits there looking at you. The extra 2 inches space beside the steering rack did help get a better alignment as I slotted the engine in and it went home fairly nicely. I guess it is quite possible that it would have done anyway - there are so many variables when craning an engine in. Anyway it is now sitting happily on its mounts and I am going to have a celebratory coffee.
  22. Fresh eyes on it this morning - can see hoe the prop shaft/diff split would work but with the car all propped up to take the engine it is inaccessible and a hell of a hassle to rearrange all that, especially as I am working alone today Steering rack is fairly recently fitted so two ball joints, four nuts on the u-bolts and the universal joint on the column ought to be easily removable, and that seems quicker and easier, especially as that end of the car is already raised. Don't think I'll need to remove it completely - just slide it along the chassis up to the radiator to make more space. Not 100% sure I'll go for the refit today - an extra pair of hands/eyes is very useful so looks like one of the kids is going to get pressganged into it again. But I will get everything ready at least. Thanks again for ideas - will let you know how this goes, and if it doesn't will try them next....
  23. Been ages since I did an update as the body has been away at a paint shop (and still is). It is one of those "get a better price if its not a rush" arrangements, but I wouldn't mind a bit more of a rush.... However works has started, - doors off, all the remaining trim is now removed and the paint has been sanded off from the bonnet, nose, parts of the front wings. There are some cracks to sort which show up nicely if you spray panel wipe over them, but that will all be taken care of. Took a couple of pics a week or two back - planning another visit shortly to see how much more has come off.
  24. I've had the engine and gearbox out of my Elite, initially to replace a badly cracked manifold and leaking cam towers, but it has ended up with a head overhaul/new valves etc as well. That's all gone fine - but I failed to get it back in today on the first go. I've got a good long reach lift and load leveller so was able to get it up and into place pretty straightforwardly, but aligining the splines on the gearbox/propshaft defeated me. It seems the main obstacle is the steering rack - specifically the section that comes up towards the steering column. This fouls on the "wings" of the sump that are used as engine mounts. If I was just fitting the engine in and didn't need to worry about the drive shaft, I'd go back beyond this, drop the mounts down and ease the whole thing forward again. However, when trying to locate the splines you need to be forward first - which leaves quite an angle between the gearbox and the prop shaft, which despite several goes I couldn't seem to overcome. I even managed to locate the splines a couple of times but then the top of the gearbox was tight against the top of the tunnel, but I couldn't lower it because of the steering rack. I might have been tempted to remove or loosen and move forward the steering rack, but by then I'd had enough so will be returning to it tomorrow. If anyone has any magic tips they would be much appreciated. Couple of pictures below from when it all seemed to be going well...
  25. These look promising - though inevitably I have left the barrel in the garage so not quite sure which size would suit. Will give them a call tomorrow.
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