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kabdulla - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


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About kabdulla

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  • Name
    Karim Abdulla
  • Car
    1995 Esprit S4s
  • Location
    San Diego, CA

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  1. kabdulla


  2. The bigger risk is the speaker wire coming unattached to the plug wire while you are fishing it through! Make sure to secure it properly! -Karim
  3. Actually Steven, you don't need to remove anything to get to the plug wires. Simply disconnect a plug wire from the coil pack and tie speaker wire (or anything similar) to the end of the plug wire you just disconnected from the coil pack. You will want to use speaker wire of length ~2x the length of the plug wire just to be safe. Then gently pull the plug wire from the spark plug end. The goal is to fish the speaker wire all the way through. Once fished, you can untie the speaker wire from the old plug wire and tie the speaker wire to the new plug wire and reverse the process, i.e. gently pull the speaker wire hanging near the coil pack. Once fished, untie and reconnect the new plug wire to the coil pack. Repeat for all 4 plug wires! As Bibs said, very very simple. -Karim
  4. Here's an update: 1) I checked the engine mounts and they both look good - I also paid more attention to the engine while running (at idle), and the engine doesn't shake at all 2) I fed more slack to the plug wire for cyl #1 and readjusted the plug wire clips that keep the plug wires connected to each other The result after two test drives is that my plug wires now seem to stay connected to the spark plugs. So now I am back to the lack of full boost. Based on pictures above, I know exactly where the coolant temperature sensor for the ECU is located, but am I correct that it is not visible from engine bay? i.e. there are a bunch of hoses and wires that obstruct a direct visual of of the sensor and even if I could see it, it certainly would not be possible to get a tool in there to remove it without first removing other hoses first. So my questions are: 1) Is the coolant temperature sensor for the ECU typically replaced from the engine bay or from underneath the vehicle? 2) And assuming the answer to #1 is from the engine bay, what else should be removed to provide enough space to see and remove the sensor?
  5. Travis - I was browsing your engine rebuild pics - is this the water temp sensor that (circled in red)?
  6. Travis - you are a Gentleman, thank you sir! I will inspect this weekend and report back.
  7. hmmm...good suggestion. I will take a look at your photographs - perhaps one of them will show me where the engine mounts are located. The plug wires do not appear short and have a fair amount of slack, but I will see if I can increase the slack in the plug wire to cyl #1.
  8. I have a tangentially related question - I solved my original stuttering problem by replacing the plug wires. And am now debugging the lack of full boost. However, in the test drives I have done, the plug wire for cylinder #1 keeps disconnecting from the spark plug. I made sure to have enough slack in the plug wires, but it keeps happening and when it happens, that's when I notice the strong fuel smell. Do the plug wires lock into place or do you just push them in as far as they will go? I have attached the metal tubes on the end of the plug wires before attaching the plug wire onto the spark plug. I am not sure what purpose the metal tubes serve, but I thought I pushed them onto the plug wire as it was originally. Has anyone else ever had this problem?
  9. Yes, CEL comes on with the ignition and extinguishes when I start the engine - so bulb seems fine.
  10. Actually, the symptom that was dependent on temperature was the stuttering (the original purpose of my post). The stuttering issue was solved with a new plug wires. The current boost being limited to 0.4-0.5 bar is constant (i.e. does not behave differently when the car is cold vs. warm). TPS is another good place to look - thanks for the tip.
  11. Thanks Travis - Turns out the increased hiss sound was a false symptom. I had the engine cover off during my test drive and I guess I was not used to hearing everything that I was hearing since I typically drive with the engine cover on. Once I put the engine cover back on, it sounded "normal". So the only valid symptom currently is the less than full boost. Since I am getting "some" boost (around 0.4-0.5 bar according to the gauge), I believe there is no mechanical blockage (which was the case several years ago when my catalytic converter broke apart). The one question I do have is wouldn't the Check Engine Light come on if the ECU was limiting my boost?
  12. That is great information - thank you! If anyone has any tips/lessons learned on replacing the temperature sender for the ecu, I am all ears. I will order from JAE asap! Aside note - I am already in new territory as far as doing any of my own work on the esprit - I can almost hear it screaming "ouch! what are you doing?!" everytime I poke around in the engine bay!
  13. Perfect Travis - thank you! -Karim
  14. kabdulla

    S4s intro

    Hi all - While I am new to the forums (joined about a month ago), I've had my 1995 Esprit S4s for 16 years now. David Simkin, Harry Appleby (RIP) and Paul Olivieri having been maintaining my car over the years, from Bauer Lotus, to Platinum Motors, to Viking Motorsports. In fact, the one time I took it over to Symbolic in La Jolla for some warranty work (to save myself the 1 hour drive up to Orange County), Harry up in OC called me me up and asked if I dropped off my car at Symbolic - I said, well, yes, but how could you possible know that? He said, because they just called him up asking him how to perform the warranty work! The car has never been back to Symbolic since. I also have to say, folks on this forum are exceptional - not only technically, but also exceptional with their generosity and willingness to share information (no matter how silly my questions!). I have been trouble shooting a couple issues for the past month or so, and having been getting a lot of help from a lot of people here! Thank you! -Karim
  15. Thanks Travis. I have not seen the symptoms related to the lean condition you describe. For the coolant temp, I will need to get ahold of a freescan and check. For the boost leak theory, any chance someone can post a picture identifying the silicon hoses to check for the boost leak? -Karim
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