free hit
Peteric - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


Basic Account
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About Peteric

  • Rank

More Info

  • Name
  • Car
    1989 Esprit SE
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

1,274 profile views
  1. Lovely looking car and i hope you find a great Esprit. They are lovely cars and a passion of mine too! However......regarding warranty..... I will be very, very surprised if you get a warranty or a good one at least on a 24 year old classic super car. Best of luck finding a good Esprit though
  2. Hi everyone On my 1990 se the timing belt doesn't run central on the cam gears. It runs close to the forward edge of the cam gears (about 1 to 2 mm from the edge). It is not whining or tracking off and is not rubbing on anything and has correct tension and was changed a couple of years ago. Is it normal not to run central on the cam gears? It runs fine on all other pulleys. Thanks Pete
  3. Just a bit of feedback. Done it this weekend. The best way was as John suggested. While I was at it I put some new engine mounts in. Thanks for your help everyone. Peter
  4. Thanks John Much appreciated. Going to have a go at getting tank out today. Thanks guys
  5. oh I see! Yeah, that could work! Thanks for the tip!
  6. Hi Andy I need to get the engine to lower or tilt a bit to get the tank out. If I undo the mount bolts on the sub frame that wont drop the engine down, will it? Or am I being a bit thick!
  7. Hi After having a fuel leak from the drivers side tank I have decided to replace both tanks with aluminium ones. Drivers side tank is in and I am know removing the passenger side which is proving to be a real pain in the rectum as it fouls on the inlet cam tower when trying to remove. I have come to the conclusion of slightly dropping the engine one side to allow enough clearance. I only need about 2cm extra gap if that. My plan was to place a jack with lump of wood under the sump and undo the three bolts from engine mount leg to block on drivers side and gently let the jack down a little bit to give the required clearance. My question this ok if I am careful and is there anything to watch out for? Do I need to loosen gearbox mount that side too? Thanks in advance Peter
  8. The Lotus cable clamp is a really bad design in my opinion. Could have been so much better by just putting an adjustable style stop for the outer cable to stop against like most motorbike cables are fitted. If I have to fit a new cable again I will be redesigning mine rather than faffing about!
  9. Thanks Alan. It is the right IAC valve. Came from SJ's. Thanks
  10. Thanks guys. I think I will say its normal then and enjoy driving! Peter
  11. Could do.....although that may well be stretching my technical ability with the computer!
  12. Thanks for the replies guys. Generally it has always idled the same since I got it but over the past couple of years I have fixed vacuum leaks and put new leads, plugs and coils on and checked everything I can. It runs far better than it did when I got it and idle is better with all the work I have done but compared to more modern cars it seems a bit rough especially at desired idle of 985rpm. It idles around the 985 rpm within say 40 rpm each way but its a lot better than it was when I first got it. Maybe I am expecting too much? The valve overlap could explain it but I just wanted to get a feel of how other owners cars idle when warm. Barry, I have changed the idle valve but its the same. Basically I just want to know if I am chasing my tail and its pretty much how it is supposed to be by getting opinions of other owners. Peter
  13. Hi Chaps Just wandering if this is an Espritism or if I have a potential issue..... I have an early Esprit SE (1990 model) and it drives great however when I start her from cold and she is in open loop the idle is super smooth but when she warms up and switches into closed loop the idle is well...... not as would say rough compared to a modern car. The plugs are good, leads are good, coils are good, it has standard injectors but these have been cleaned professionally, O2 sensor is a lotus one and new 1000 miles ago. There are definitely no vacuum leaks, idle counts sit correctly on freescan and everything looks ok on freescan. I have removed an injector lead one by one while the idle valve has been disconnected and all cylinders are balanced, in fact I have checked every potential problem I can think of! As I say, when driving it drives lovely but just not a great idle So, does the SE have quite a poor tick over in its standard ECU tune? Will RC injectors smooth the idle out better? Help me to stop chasing my tail! Lol! Thanks Peter
  14. Just to follow up...... Took car out for a test drive yesterday and it drove well and did not repeat the high idle when moving/coasting so I will take it as fixed at the moment! Thanks Peter
  15. Well, I learned something today! Whether I have cured the problem or not I don't know but......... Firstly, I checked the throttle cable and linkage with engine cold. After hundreds of throttle movements slowly returning to throttle stop and instantly returning to throttle stop the TPS always read 0.69mv at the throttle stop so no sticking cable or TPS or linkage. Next, I started the engine and let it warm up. I let the fans kick in a couple of times to get it really warm and then a few throttle movements and the car behaved correctly.....TPS reading 0.69mv at throttle stop every time. Just to make sure I turned engine off with it hot and done a few hundred throttle movements (slow and quick return to stop) and TPS always went straight back to 0.69mv and was nice and smooth on all throttle movements. So it looked like the throttle was behaving itself. So, I jack drivers rear wheel, turn ignition on and start freescan and turn the wheel. It seems to be recording low vehicle speeds fine. So I go one step further and start the car, let the idle settle and start turning the wheel and the engine instantly started to speed up each time the vehicle speed went over 2 mph. It would only speed up by 100 revs or so but engine definitely speeded up. I am pretty sure it is meant to do this as it wasn't intermittent, it done it every time. What I also noticed is that each time the wheel was turned the spark timing retarded from 7/8 degrees to 12 degrees so the speed sensor does have a definite effect on engine running. Anyway, I got the speed sensor out (which I was chuffed about without breakage) and it was pretty rusty on the magnet and the connections were dirty so I have cleaned all that up and I also took TPS off and checked there was nothing obvious there and I have refitted both and adjusted TPS back to 0.69mv. I have not test driven the car yet but I will tomorrow. I did check the speed sensor while plugged into freescan again and it seemed a little sharper on picking up the readings but it still retarded ignition and very slightly change engine speed when wheel was turned so I presume it is meant to do this. Will update when I test drive tomorrow!
  • Create New...