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Chillidoggy

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Everything posted by Chillidoggy

  1. I don't understand this. What exactly is in the way of the hex-head screw that is preventing you from undoing it? Like I said above, I use a 1/4" drive ratchet, long extension wobble bar, and a socket with a hex drive bit. If I can't quite make it, then I use a different length wobble bar. Once the heat shields are removed, you should be able to fit the hex bit into the screw head. If you can't physically turn it, stick a tube on the ratchet, and have another go. You might bugger the ratchet up, but that's a cheaper option than what I see you've posted above.
  2. Notwithstanding Sparky’s clearly tempting offer, have you tried a 1/4” ratchet with a wobble bar and hex head drive for the aft pump screw? As to whether you would have enough engine removal clearance, I can’t answer that one because I removed the pump from the bracket every time I took the engine out. Maybe you can post some photos up so we can all have a look at your problem?
  3. It's been a while, have you managed to get that pulley off yet?
  4. Surely, an “anti Max Verstappen hate group” is in favour of Max?
  5. I can’t comment on the SJ version, but I fitted the PNM hose 7 years ago, and it works OK for me. It’s routed through the chassis as per the original.
  6. An easy thing to do, but at least we got there in the end!
  7. There’s no silver bullet. My advice is to get yourself underneath the car with a lead lamp, and have a look. I have no idea what room you have as I always work with the car up on the lift. What tools do you have? Screwdrivers? Pry bars?
  8. Take a simple gearbox. Put it in first gear and turn the input shaft. Then turn the output shaft. Do the same in fourth or fifth gear. What level of torque do you have to use for each test? The reason the highway codes states that is because reverse gear will prevent the engine turning fast on a downhill slope. What that wouldn't do is prevent rotation when torque is applied in the opposite direction from the engine. It depends on which end it's being turned from. Bear in mind we are trying to prevent the engine from turning, not the wheels. Try turning the engine from the crankshaft pulley nut. Is it harder to turn the engine when the transmission is in 1st gear, or fourth? I would suggest the latter, hence fourth or fifth is preferable for what steve is trying to do. Putting the handbrake with gear selection is also another method.
  9. Which is precisely what is NOT required. The object here is to prevent the engine turning enough whilst heaving on a spanner and removing the PAS pulley (connected to said engine via its drive belt). Put it in low gear, and you are far less likely be able to stop the engine turning whilst heaving on the aforementioned spanner. Putting the transmission in higher gears increases the torque required to turn the engine. I hope this explains it.🙂
  10. For maximum resistance to the engine turning, then high gears are what's required, not first or reverse.
  11. Have you tried preventing the pump flange from turning, yet?
  12. Surely, if they’re lined up with a slack belt, they’re not lined up? A decent photo would be nice.
  13. Well, if they’re lined up why are we having this discussion?
  14. Assuming you meant the front fog lamps, they’re Saab 9000 Aero units.
  15. I can’t see any dimples on the sprockets in the photos.
  16. Seeing as they’re in that area, I’d be having a look on the block at the oil pressure gauge sender, low oil pressure sensor, coolant temp sensor, and the knock sensor.
  17. Best news I’ve had all day.
  18. I only manage to find MOT stations that are drive through.
  19. I can tell you the ignition switch (not the barrel) is a 6-terminal part that also fits a Daewoo Matiz, as I had to change mine recently. P/N 226676.
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