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PhilS

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Everything posted by PhilS

  1. Are you using an iPad by any chance? I have the same issue as you on mine, but the site is fine on the desktop. although the AdBlock add-on might have something to do with that
  2. It might be lighter (and cheaper for Lotus), but I think that looks horrible without the covers and “Lotus Performance” plaque on the supercharger. Just as well they’ve ditched the glass hatch so you don’t have to look at it. 😁
  3. At delivery, mine had very stiff steering - it wouldn't self-centre. This needed a new steering rack. Sometime after that there was an issue with the steering position sensor, not sure if this was replaced or just connections reseated. There were also a few squeaks / rattles that were sorted, including a rev-specific "tizz" from one of the heat-shields in the engine bay. This was never completely cured, but to their credit the dealer stopped most of it. Then no problems for the next couple of years until I noticed that the exhaust valve override didn't work. This needed a new solenoid. Fast-forward to the end of warranty inspection / first MOT when a lot of corrosion was reported, including brake lines and a broken front suspension spring. The spring was replaced under warranty, apparently the corroded brake lines are fine... Some months after the warranty expired I noticed that the washers didn't work and purely by chance, that the alarm siren was also silent. The dealer put in a good-will claim but Lotus refused, so I'm currently waiting for replacement parts and hoping the washer motor arrives before the MOT expires. My advice is to check that everything works as it should and have a nose around underneath and report anything you're not happy with. Having said all this, I do love the car and have no plans to change it - I just hope it doesn't turn to dust before I do!
  4. Watching with interest... I’m also waiting on the 4 week lead time and sailing close to the MOT deadline.
  5. Mine was corroded so badly one of the front springs had snapped. Replaced under warranty as this was before it's third birthday 😮 Surprising, considering I've owned it from new and it's always been garaged and seldom driven in the wet, particularly during the winter, so I hate to think how bad it *could* get. Just as well they're not knocking them out at nearly £100k these days with the same old parts, isn't it. Ahhhh....
  6. Option 2 for me. Edited to add: That's assuming that taking it off completely isn't an option, even though it would look SOOO much better... /Roadster owner and proud
  7. I can't answer that question, as I did my speakers first (albeit Infinity Kappas rather than focals), but can say that the combination of new speakers plus enclosing the rear of the speakers (as per the comments earlier in this thread) made a huge difference in the sound quality. I think making / fitting enclosures mades as much, if not more difference, IMHO. You may have already done this, in which case ignore me!! Phil.
  8. I recently found this thread, and it got me back to thinking about properly setting up (or trying to) my system in the Exige. When I installed the system I had a go at doing this, but got a bit lost, so reverted to factory settings and just tweaked the tone controls a bit. However, reading this, I'm keen to have another go, and wondered if any members have expertise that could help. First off, I have the following installed in my car: Head Unit: Alpine IDE-178BT Front Speakers: Infinity Kappa 42.9i (frequency response 75 -25khz, sensitivity 93db) Rear Speakers: Infinity Kappa 52.11i (frequency response 55 -25khz, sensitivity 94db) Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-WX 120A located in the passenger footwell. (frequency response 30-160hz) The head unit setup options are very similar to the unit in the Evora guide, above, and this is what I'd like help with. Of course, some of the settings are absolute and easy to setup, but the ones I'm not sure about are the Cross-over and EQ settings: Firstly, the Cross-overs. I can set the cross-over frequency (defined steps that include 40, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125Hz), slope (flat, 6, 12, 18, 24db/Octave) and level (0, -1, -2db etc) for front, rear and Sub-Woofer. The Evora guide uses the same frequency for HPF and LPF, which makes sense, but that is just for fronts, for our cars with front and rear, would a good principle be to set front and rear to the same point (the higher of the two lower frequency response limits, so 80hz in my case), or individually to suit each speaker pair (63 and 80hz respectively)? If the latter, then should the sub match the lower of the two? How about the slope, what factors do you consider when setting either a soft or abrupt cutover? Secondly, for the EQ, on the Evora setup, I was surprised by how much variation there is across the frequency spectrum. How the hell does one go about getting to that point?! Sorry for the long post - any help / advice / pre-defined configurations (!) gratefully received. Thanks in advance, Phil.
  9. I'm not sure if it's the case with the Evora, but on the Exige you need to remove the grill to use the towing hook. Of course, as Lotus owners, this isn't anything we need to concern ourselves with....
  10. Peter, that looks very similar to what I did too. I think it's definitely worth doing, as there is big void under the front speakers - it sounded much better to my ears. I also added some wadding material (synthetic stuffing taken from one of cushions - don't tell my wife!!) into the "bowl", not sure if that made a huge difference, it perhaps every little helps?!
  11. Happy to help, and no problem at all.
  12. Found one. You can see the carry on bag and how it fits. You'll have to trust me that the other one is stuffed in to its right!!! Hope these help, Phil.
  13. I'm away at the moment, so limited in what I can show you, but the smaller of the two goes in first, then pushed right over to right hand side into the corner of the clam, then the larger one goes in at an angle so you can push it under the lock towards the rear of the car. I might have a picture on my phone - if I do, I'll add it to the thread in a moment.
  14. I made the same mistake of measuring the grills to determine the size, but unfortunately I DID order the speakers (6.5 and 5.5). Fortunately, where I ordered from (caraudiodirect) were happy to do a swap (in reality, a re-order and refund), so all I lost was time and a bit of postage cost in the end.
  15. However, I wouldn't be surprised that if one added up all those "2 seconds faster" claims for each new iteration of the Elise platform from the original S1, one might that the current fastest car has finished its lap before it started....
  16. PhilS

    PhilS

  17. Mine suffered from this too - in my case it was on of the heat shields, and fixing it seems to be a matter of trial an error: bend a bit, go for drive, repeat as needed. It was completely sorted at the time. But has come back a little now - not enough to warrant a separate trip, but something to add to the list for next service.
  18. I'm hoping your number plate isn't T8 TUM...
  19. Slight thread drift here - my air on buttons are on the bottom and the heated seats on the top row - the opposite to the picture above. Typical Lotus consistency!
  20. Glad it was helpful - perhaps I should e-mail the guy selling them and ask for some commission! Also, my post should say "...behind the OBD II connector". Doh, too many years working in IT!!
  21. Resurrecting this old thread, as I've just replaced the relay on my V6 with one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/12V-ELECTRONIC-INDICATOR-FLASHER-RELAY-FOR-CLASSIC-CARS-WITH-OE-CLICKING-SOUND/181707664784 following a thread on another forum (once popular in the South East of England ), which many here may not have seen. I now have properly clicking indicators It's a very easy job to DIY - the relay is located under the dash, close to the centre of the car and behind the ODBC connector. It requires a bit of contorting to see it, but I found going in via the passenger door, kneeling on the floor, I could look under the dash and see it. There are two relays next to each other, the one to change is the smaller of the two. The fact I was bent double to see it, meant I'm not confident to explain the orientation, but I think it was the higher of the two. Anyway, once I located it, I was able to get back into a more comfortable position (kneeling) and removed my left hand by feel. There are no clips, it just pulls out. Hope this is helpful for anyone who hasn't seen the other thread. Phil.
  22. A pleasure. Not sure where you're based, but if you're local (ish) to Surrey / Kent and would appreciate some moral support if you have a go, then let me know. Phil.
  23. As promised, here are some pictures of how I routed the cables: The pictures show (1) the cover I drilled through to get the power into the front compartment. The yellow and black cables are the sub power cables. (2) the cover to remove in the front compartment to see where the cables emerge from the cover, (3) the route for the cables to HU under the sill cover - plenty of room there to feed through phono cables / fuse holder etc 4) the route to take the cables. If you remove the cover on the side trim, it's really obvious how to route the cables through the channel. You could also pass the power feed here, should you choose to take from the back of the HU, as Blue1000 did. You need to remove the HU to get the other end (and plug it all in, of course!). Hope this helps, Phil.
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