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Lotusfab

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Everything posted by Lotusfab

  1. The button is a the bottom of the key
  2. Ahhh. Just so you know how it works on my S1 when the ignition is turned off the fans run. But to put the lock on you need another turn of the keys and have to press the button under the column to pull the keys out. The fans turn off when you rotate the keys to this final position.
  3. The fans should run with the ignition off until you put the steering lock on and remove the key.
  4. Thanks Barry, getting there with the car, very slowly. Ski racks are progressing at a snails pace despite hours and hours of work. The lower ones are done and just need smoothing, primer and paint. The upper ones are causing big problems.I had to abandon my design and start again from scratch. Thankfully James on here is an engineer and came over to have a look. My design wasn’t strong enough. Thanks to his idea of using mild steel U channel I now have a new design. It will fit into the original fibreglass shape with some modification, but be far stronger than the film prop design.It should allow me to reach reasonable speeds with no issues. I just have to make them, but I have been enjoying driving the car and perfecting it - so I took a short break from the racks.
  5. They should be slightly oversize to hold them in the frame, but mine were excessive when compared with the other new seals which came from a different source. I also cut the carpet edge right back to allow them to seat. Even if I press on the door as hard as I can it won’t go flush due to the pressure. You have done a good job on yours. I will fix it but the seals will have tonbe replaced.
  6. I took the car on its longest run yet. 280 miles covered so far.I tuned it a second time but already it has started to drift off. I am slowly working through a snag list. Speedo is now working again after using a cable tie to hold the Angle drive down. I discovered after feeling quite hot on my long drive the vacuum powered Mode and fresh air flaps weren’t working. The demist was stuck on fulI hot which was a bit uncomfortable, so I spent today fixing it! Gear surround out and drivers seat. The main vacuum line had disconnected. I glued it back in with superglue. There then appeared to be a vacuum leak from the upper flap valve. I was going to replace it, but thankfully Andy on here told me they have to be connected only one way. I swapped the leads over and job done, all fixed. I noted a slight squeak when selecting first gear. This was being caused by my upgraded bearing in the middle of the selector rods. I adjusted it and the rod is no longer rubbing where it exits the chassis. Whilst I was adjusting this I noticed some gear oil coming from the selector on both sides.I have an early gearbox. I upgraded the selector to C35 spec and the selector cover. The selector has too much play because I hadn’t noticed the C35 top cover has also been modified, That is what was causing the seepage. Easy fix just swap the cover or change the spec back until I have more time. Theres the odd rattle which I will have to identify and fix. I took the isolators out from the front springs to lower It slightly. This was a bad move. Any dip or road hump and the car contacts at the front. You really have to go very slowly over bumps. This isn’t practical so I am replacing the isolators. I still need to align the wheels. The tracking is off at the front and the wheels need balancing. I will spend a lot of time getting the geometry correct, like I did with my S1. You have to expect some jobs when you have completely rebuilt a car that hasn’t been on the road for many many years. I didn’t have hardly any issues with the S1, but thats probably because the Turbo is so much more complicated and has many many more parts. Its taking a while, but soon I hope to have no snags! Its all starting to bed in as I rack up the miles. I was very pleased with the engine temperature it stayed at 75 degrees during the cruise. When I stopped in heavy traffic it got up to 85 degrees, but then we started to moved before the fans kicked in. Temperature control is perfect now. Should hit 500 miles soon and then I will have a thorough check over.
  7. Looks much better! I personally think the seals I have were not made correctly. Their circumference is far too big for the aperture. This requires them to be compressed to fit which means they don’t have any give. There are two types being sold the Lotus sourced ones apparently work. I have another brand new seal which I will try on the S1. It is different to my S1 seals. Far too busy perfecting theTurbo at the moment to replace them.
  8. First port of call is the oil test. Find out exactly whats in the oil. Water will show up. Then go from there. The new thermostat I installed works perfectly so now you have that installed you can rule that out as a overheat probelm.
  9. Well done Dave, looks like a great car!
  10. Fan relay? Or Switch? Swap the relay with one of the others and see if it works. If not test switch with a meter for resistance when hot and a couple of minutes after engine off. If still low resistance faulty switch.
  11. I don’t like it, I have to do at least 60000 miles in my Turbo to get my use out of it!
  12. I tried powering them directly and bypassed the original circuits, it made no difference. My S1 works perfectly now with the original wiring because the motors are so much better. The turbo wiring is already upgraded with relays and still would not work properly. It was really slow and painful to watch. As I say really quick and perfect now with the new motors. I think Paul Coleman is replacing the motors ,on his S1. Lets see if this cures the longstanding window problem.
  13. If the widow is having trouble moving ( usually drivers side) I spent months working on this problem. I adjusted the frame extensively without the motor mechanism so minimal force was needed to raise and lower. I restored the motor and it still would not work sticking or going very slow. In the end I bought a new AC Delco corvette motor installed it and it worked perfectly. Why? I concluded the permanent magnets in the old motor had demagnetised which reduced the torque. I had the same issue on the Turbo drivers side. They all work perfectly now with new motors!
  14. Well done. My seals have been in there about 5 years and still haven’t compressed. The test will be later with use when excessive pressure can cause the catches to slip and destroy the paint. I have come to the conclusion the new seals I have must be replaced.
  15. I’ve had a bit of a setback. After spending three days changing the design and remaking the upper rack I decided to scrap it and start again. These racks have to be really good and work perfectly to the same standard as the rest of the car. The first design was over complicated and had flaws, which I didnt really appreciated until I constructed it I now have a new plan and hopefully this time I will make progress, I have done a lot of research and have found a Pin lock that is ideally suited to this application. Its taking longer than I might have hoped, but I will get there. I have decided thanks to all the input on here I must finish this car to full James Bond spec with identical locking ski racks. You may wonder why I haven’t been clocking up the miles. Well I am being extremely pedantic with this car because of my previous mishap. I noticed when driving I was getting about 85 degrees temperature. When stationary it was going to 110 degrees. I thought it might have air in as 110 is far too high! but couldn't understand how 'it had not cleared. The switch for the fans is 90 degrees, so it needed investigation. I had changed the temperature switch to a modern one and thought this was the issue. So I swapped all the front pipework and returned it to Lotus spec.I still had the fans coming on at 110 degrees! The temperature gauge was bench calibrated with the sender. I decided to test the system again as I could not fault anything else. I took the sender out and placed in in hot water with a laboratory thermometer. I found at 90 degrees the temperature gauge was indicating 110 Degrees! Also as the water cooled there was a consistent over read. The temperature gauge has two calibration holes covered in small cork inserts. I made a tool out of a 5 mm rod. When inserted in the holes it is possible to change the calibration. I heated the water to 90 degrees and calibrated the guage to read exactly 90 degrees. I then cooled the water to 50 degrees and checked the reading. I found correcting the upper reading fixed the entire scale. I have successfully calibrated the gauge to within 3 degrees across the 50-90 degree range. The fans com on at exactly 90 degrees! They switch of after about 30 seconds and the reading drops to about 85 degrees. Sometimes the gauge sticks probably because the car is stationary and the temperature change is small. The upshot is Its all working perfectly like a Swiss watch! I posted this so that anyone who thinks they may have a temperature issue tests the calibration of the sender and gauge first and in situ. Its easy to test and quite simple to adjust the gauge if you make the tool. The tool can be made quite easily with a bit of filing from a 5 mm stud. Right back to version three of my ski rack mechanism!
  16. Thanks Andy, I think Imam going to realise the dream and start drilling very soon. I am busy making a refined version of the upper rack mechanism. I have had to use a rivnut! Yes Lotus have forced this on me!
  17. These are ready now to bond to the lower racks. Just working on the upper mechanism, trouble is I need a lathe!
  18. Thats my dream garage! I’m not the only one then thats fits skis! I think at the end of the day Roos argument will win and there is a lot of Wisdom in what William said. At the end of the day I am making this car for me and no one else. I think I have got to drill the tailgate and put the skis on!
  19. Contact Matt Oxley on here. He remade them.
  20. Hi James, thanks. The only two issues with an alternative solution are time and cost. I have a solution that is almost done and don’t want to spend any more as I am 50 per cent over my initial budget already. I can’t face any more iterations of this at the moment.
  21. I just looked it up and it was Jan 2018 when I made the first trip to Florida to see the Bond car. Then I made a second visit as my styrofoam plugs weren’t correct. I have been making these racks for almost 2.5 years now. It seems a shame not to put them on. , especially after my design was given a thumbs up by an engineer I know. I am thinking it would be simple to fill the holes and repaint the tailgate, If thats someones preference. There have been quite a lot of other people that have installed ski racks of one sort or another. I have spent hundreds, probably thousands of hours making these as close to the originals as possible. All the points made are valid and thanks all for the input. I will finish them and then make the decision. If they come out as I expect I will be very tempted to install them. For the moment I am spending all day every day to complete the racks, at last they are moving forward to the finish with most of the work done. I have almost completed a prototype lockable mechanism for the upper racks. Today I shall paint and fibreglass the lower mounts into position. I am probably a week from prepping these for spraying. I already have another litre of specially mixed copper fire paint ready to go. Lots of pictures when they are done, regardless of whether I install them or not. On another subject is anyone interested in getting some of the front and rear abs plastic door finishers that fit to the inside of the door? I can make them out of ABS plastic, but It will take a lot of time. I was thinking if there are enough of us I could ask Mike at Lotusbits how much he would want to manufacture them.
  22. Thanks chaps, both valid points. I suppose If I were to sell I could always fill the holes and respray. Alternatively someone else might want to be James Bond!
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