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Everything posted by Lotusfab

  1. Is your battery fully charged? If so and assuming you have’t been working under the dash, steering area or front boot (wires not disturbed) the most likely reason is the switch contacts. Turn the headlight switch on and off many times. If it still doesn't work check there is power to the relays. If so maybe a relay?
  2. Heres a picture of a pristine dr6 sump you might know. Look at the suspension height.Think this proves conclusively that some of the stock photos have the car weighted down for the pictures.
  3. my car in motion. If you draw across the waistline trim I they look almost identical.
  4. You were lucky there, both of my S1 and Turbo drivers door window wouldn’t close!
  5. Yep no harm in relays it will preserve the contacts over time. Be aware though it won’t fix a poor window set up. Far better to adjust all of the bits get it working with little resistance and if you wish add a relay. The windows get such little use I haven’t bothered to add relays. I have new motors on both drivers doors. They are off a corvette and many other US cars. They have been remanufactured and I bought both of mine from the USA, quite cheaply. Details on my blog somewher of the exact type for ordering. Heres a quick guide how to set up the window. Remove everything except the
  6. I have spent months messing around with the window operation on the S1 and Turbo. They now all work perfectly without any relays. They didn’t work properly when I got the cars because of many things. The torque of the motors was reduced in the S1 as the magnets were weak. The rest was down the the window frame adjustment. Too much resistant. There are lots of possible adjustments. It is possible for them to work really well If you spend enough time on them. I recently dismantled and adjusted the frame on the Turbo drivers door to stop a leak. Whilst I was at it I completely shimmed the frame
  7. Heres one where the car has been jacked up to align the decals and hasn’t settled back down.
  8. Some of the pictures of my car were done after the car had been jacked up. Heres one where it has been driven, look at the back wheel height and compare it to the arch. My entire suspension is new. The springs are also new as per the originals and I have factory rear shocks - no adjustment. I believe the rear height is correct and where it should be, Some of the well known pictures you see the car was weighted down to give it a lower stance. Heres a picture of the Bond ca4 and mine for comparison. Notice how high the front is sitting! I would say in these pics the rears are about the
  9. As above you can't remove the distributor and turn the oil pump because of the timing belt stopping the pulley on the other end rotating. I would leave the spark plugs out and crank. I think it took 2 mins and 30 secs for oil pressure to build from dry on my Turbo( check my blog figures are on there). Once you have some pressure start as normal. If you don't get pressure just by cranking, you could take the oil pump off, pack with graphogen and try again. In my experience no oil pressure just from cranking points to an oil pump rebuild. I know some on here will disagree. Because of the issues
  10. Ahh I thought you said weigh the car in the previous post! Yes I understand levelling. Thats why the landrover discovery I rebuilt the front suspension on must be put into tight tolerance mode using a computer before suspension align is attempted, although not many companies seem to know this, because they never read the Landrover alignment guide! I can’t see why you would weight the whole car on the Lotus? I want it set up for just me in it. I suspect this is all a bit irrelevant when you are just popping out for a coffee every now and then and not screaming around the track on a track day.
  11. I was thinking I should have published the cost of this as I went along. I think it would discourage quite a few from restoring. It is frightening how quickly costs escalate. My advice is buy the best possible one you can and just enjoy driving it knowing exactly how much you have paid.
  12. Not all the alignment system use those sort of wheel targets. The problems come through carelessness when for example they accidentally bash the wheel whilst fitting them! Not sure why you weigh the car? My s1 readings and Turbo were both taken with me sitting in it when I used the electronic system. Have you ever seen Kwik Fit use the weights to load the suspension? They do have them (containers filled will water) and also laptops for use with hunter. In fact the start screen tells them to plug the laptop in for some vehicle types. They delete the screen and carry on. The weights and laptops
  13. Sounds good. Where I live there is no one who knows these cars. All the specialists seem to be Northampton way. If you added up all the hours I have done sorting the suspension it would probably add up to weeks. I have a Gunson Trackrite camber gauge. I had this car measured using a laser system some time ago. They tried to set the rear camber and front toe. No measurements were in their data base. They spent ages and still managed to set the toe wrong. I had to reset it with a Trackace system I have at home. My camber gauge is very simple and gives consistent readings, but it must be calibrat
  14. Thats it a a nutshell. I also really don’t like telling people how to do their job, but it seems nearly every time you let them get on with something unsupervised it ends up with a problem that you end up fixing yourself. More disturbingly no one seems to know what they are doing! I find it really frustrating, as in my profession you get checked out every six months and need to be up to date and current with a massive amount of information. If your not you won’t be employed for very long!
  15. From memory they didn’t have S1 specs in the system, so they tried to used S3. This was also incorrect and they had to manually overwrite the database figures. I had to calculate a conversion from mm to degrees for each wheel. I still maintain the string method is every bit as good and easily applied. Its still heavily used in racing. In fact in guildford there is a specialist who only uses the string method. His main business is racing car set up. The cx500 split rim wheel and the wolfrace design don’t lend them selves to having targets fitted. Care must be taken when you fit and remove them.
  16. After a comprehensive heating test I discovered its actually working. I hadn’t looked in much detail at the diagram in the manual and the heater settings - I haven’t really used the heater much until now. The Max setting is actually off! The heater only works when the selector is between interior and screen. More importantly hot air only comes out from the screen vents and into the footwell. After a discussion with Andy on here I got to the bottom of why it didn’t feel hot enough, most of the heat was coming from the screen vents. Two bits of 1 1/2 pipe were missing from underneath that direc
  17. For what its worth I drive this car in the wet. Whilst I had the wheels off I had a chance to inspect the chassis and other components. I found the callipers which were plated then painted are in excellent condition, as are all the POR 15 coated parts. The powder coated parts are still pretty good. The new ball joints, which were all new, already have surface corrosion. I have cleaned them up and applied ACF 50. I think a more permanent solution would be lacquer or paint. I have found even the stainless parts have signs of corrosion. Basically plated parts are corroding whilst anything painted
  18. yep. The first time I filled them up I didn’t have a spare grease gun so I unscrewed the grease nipples and filled it up with an oil can.
  19. Thanks John. Mine has been modified to take the grease nipples. I have got a new grease gun on the way with a flexible end. Should be pretty easy to top up using this method. The nipples can be accessed by just turning the steering wheel. Grease gun £10 on ebay.
  20. I did that with the S1. The main stream companies know nothing about aligning an Esprit chassis. I got them to measure it and then took it away and shimmed it myself and brought it back for a final check. I had an align check done on this, but the same problem they haven't got a clue what they are doing. I trust my own readings more than theirs. Plus I don’t damage the wheels buy strapping on laser targets. In fact Kwik fit damaged my Land rover chassis and told me it had to be scrapped! I told them I have just rebuilt the entire front end and they have damaged it by not loosening the
  21. Finally the suspension is shimmed! The castor took 4.5 mm of shim washers (early type) to increase caster from 1 degree 45 secs to 3 degrees and 15 sec. I measured the caster using a laser spirit level, trigonometry and a Gunson Camber/caster gauge. There are lots of videos on youtube how to do this. The fishing line and bob weight method to form a rectangle and measure toe is really easy to set up and accurate. The whole suspension is now as good as it can be. I am just waiting for a break in the weather to do some tests. I found a slight oil leak. It was a very easy fix. One of th
  22. Ok rear nearly done! It took one 6 mm shim plate on the rear left to reduce the toe in to 1 mm. The rear left camber needs to be checked again now the shim plate is installed. The front caster I measured as 1 degree and 45 minutes. So will install a 1.5 mm shim behind the anti roll bar and measure again, it needs to be 3 degrees. This is time consuming, but pretty easy. Should have it sorted in the next few days. I have been working on a Landrover Discovery in between. The fuel burning heater was smoking. I think I have fixed it and my webasto diagnostic software shows no faults. So no
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