free hit
Lotusfab's Content - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


Full Forum Member (FFM)
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Lotusfab

  1. I now use stickersinternational, but they are Uk based I see you are in the netherlands. The correct graphic is on the manual front. If yo7 send them a PDF I am sure they can recreate it for you. Unless they have updated them recently the usual suspects are supplying the wrong graphic in the decal, but probably only a handful of us would know.
  2. If anyone is thinking of replacing the original limiter rotor arm I have just received a shallow replacement from PNM engineering. The normal size Lucas won’t fit.Be sure and ask them before your order. Can’t believe the speed at which they are getting parts out these days. I ordered in the afternoon and received it the next day, only having paid for first class post. Well done PNM and thanks! Well just as it was going so well I have detected an unusual noise when the engine warms up. It sounds like a bearing. I used a stethoscope and believed it was from the reconditioned alternator. I dis
  3. I have just bought a Kriket one. I found some info on here that says 95 on the Burroughs gauge equals 55 on the Kriket. The problem is the Burroughs 95 = 95 lbs. the Kriket has a pounds scale, so why is the setting on the Kriket not 95 lbs? Maybe older ones were calibrated in units?
  4. The bearings are one of the easier jobs. Heat the hub and freeze the bearing, just dropped in very easily for me.
  5. A decent engineering firm will easily drill it out for you.
  6. Thanks Dave. Steve, Interesting point. The only changes made were float height and choke. When I tune these cars I always found on my S1 there is a position on the idle mixture screw that gives a big boost in power output. Its not very wide probably in the 1/4 turn range. On my turbo I have never been able to reproduce this effect to the same extent. I noticed this time when I tuned it I was able to locate the position and the effect was similar to the S1. Was this due to a change in float height? I don’t really know. All I can say is its now running perfectly. I would know for sure If I swi
  7. Still can’t believe what effect changing the choke size has had. My S1 has always drove extremely well and set the bar. I would say now the Turbo drives even better than the S1. Its a relief after so long to have perfected the acceleration. Your always scratching around in a no mans land with these changes.
  8. WOW JUST WOW! What a difference a day can make! I just took it out for a test drive and no stumble at all. The engine in driving amazingly at all rpms. I took it up to 5000 rpm and it really flew! The solution was the choke. The 35 mm has transformed the car. I still plan on the rolling road, just to see what everything is doing an to ensure all is correct. The steering is perfect as is the balance. Its a different car!
  9. Thanks Andy, I have that already. Car is now running and retuned. The start issue was the ignition timing, which is now reset. I have tuned it again and its spot on. Its running a 43 idle jet 7850 -7 jet holder and 35 mm chokes. Just need the weather to change for a test. If the stumble is still there I will try a 45 idle jet. Trying to get this as close as possible before the rolling road. The 7850-9/58 combination seems too rich for this engine. Maybe the progression hole drillings in the body are the reason? Anyhow the combo doesn’t work in this engine.
  10. Thanks. I am certain the float height is correct. I measured the height in the bowl after setting them to 15 mm, without compression of the piston on the end of the needle valve. I think this is where an error occurred before. If you hold the float vertically hanging down, as the book suggests and set 15 mm the piston may be compressed. You have to watch it carefully, which I have done this time. Last time I also checked the level with a vernier caliper. I think its tricky to measure the fuel height like this unless lighting is very bright. I will set the static timing to 12 degrees to ge
  11. Ok to recap so far I switched the idle jet to a 58 and weakened the holder to 7850-9, HC config. I ran this with the LC 36mm choke to test the changes. It started easily and after about 15 minutes started to misfire. It still stumbled on acceleration from about 2600 rpm to 3000 rpm. The next day I switched to the 35mm chokes. The car wouldn’t start. I found there was no spark. As we know now there was no spark across the electrode because it was discharging along the insulator due to the carbon. I cleaned the plugs and the ignition is working again. The progression circuit se
  12. Mmm thanks, in that case. I will try again. Given the above the engine should start. All I can do is set the static ignition timing and try again. Maybe I flooded it with choke and accelerator in my eagerness for it to start.
  13. Float height I am sure is spot on as is the fuel pressure. Won’t the smaller choke increase the venturi effect and suck more fuel into the chamber? So the idle screws will need to close more? I have replaced the idle jet and holder with the originals. The only difference now is the choke size.
  14. Cleaned the spark plugs and she fires, but won’t sustain. 8 have to reset the ignition timing. Its now flooding. This maybe caused by the smaller chokes. At least I know what caused the ignition issue. Should now be able to get it running.
  15. If you dont care about buying another nut you can also put cuts in it then twist it off.
  16. Yep, but I don’t think thats the problem. I took the distributor off. Very easy to do with the correct technique. Left hand through front under carb. Right hand under plenum. Distributor cap on and off by feel. Clips by screwdriver from front. I did all of the manual Lumenition testing for a third time including all the voltage tests. It passed with flying colours and no loose connections. I then examined the spark in detail. I noticed when it appeared not to spark there was a discharge on the ceramic. I asked my self how is this possible and realised it was covered in carbon, which is a condu
  17. The new red rotor arm doesn’t fit as its too deep compared with the original. I did a detailed examination of the old rotor and cap. I noticed part of the rotor has been removed, the bit that grounds to earth to limit the rpm. They have left one of the brackets. There is an earth button directly behind the bracket Below you can see the earth bar. As rpm increases the centre part with two screws stretches out and contacts the bar. This is then earthed to the distributor shaft cutting off the ignition. The worry is I cannot find anything wrong with the cap or the rotor, removing the bar
  • Create New...