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Lotusfab

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Everything posted by Lotusfab

  1. If this is the pipe that was routed under the air filter that was a cause of the air in the system. It must not be kinked and allow a direct route for air to escape the system to the header tank. There is no need to stand the car on its nose if this pipe is correctly installed. You must recalibrate the temp gauge. If its reading 60 degrees at 100 degrees this is 40 degrees off! What is the real temp at 90 degrees indicated? The fans should be on at this temp.
  2. Heres my blog Everything you need is on there including the method to recalibrate the temperature gauge. You really should start with an accurate gauge and work from there its easy to recalibrate. It should track correctly within 10 degrees c over the entire range.Watch the gauge as it cools with the thermometer in the boiling water. A large school lab thermometer is best. So to adjust the temp calibration remove the cork atbthe back of the instrument and file off a bit of metal to use as a tool to rotate the calibration mechanism, its all on my blog with pics. Everything you need to save time and methodically fix the issue. If you fans don’t come on at 90 degrees C something is wrong. Maybe the gauge reads 90 degrees but the real temp is lower. It should operate within 5 degrees. This is why you must confirm the gauge is correct before anything else. Of course fans not coming on with cause an instant overheat and boiling. I have learned you do not have to tip the car on its nose to clear air. The bleed pipe from the top of the expansion tank to the curved cooling pipe must not be kinked this is where the air escapes. If its kinked the air can’t escape and all the coolant will boil out.
  3. I spent months messing around on my Turbo when the gauge was reading about 110degrees. I changed everything and the fault was the gauge calibration. Its very easy to check in minutes. Have a look at my restoration blog where I give you the method to check it. When a Turbo is working perfectly the gauge never goes beyond 95 degrees in any external temperature. If it does something is wrong with the system. Mine sits at 75 degrees when moving, even in 35 degrees ambient. When stopped it rises slowly to 85 degrees the fans turn on and it drops to about 80 degrees. Fans turn off and the temperature cycles quite happily, reaches about 90 degrees maximum. It operated all day in plus 35 degrees for the Bond vivant movie, no issues. The gauge calibration is easy to check so do it before spending any money. After that is the gauge is correct expand the fixes. Solid state regulator, thermostat, radiator etc. If the thermostat is original its almost certainly not working properly. Buy one that I sourced which are very good quality and now sold buy lotusbits. If you read my blog I go through everything on the car in detail.
  4. Image wheels have remade the Cx500 wheel. Cast from the original and available in any PCD they are called CxI wheels on their website. Enjoy!
  5. Well chaps on the parts quality issue. I needed a new couple of UJs for the intermediate column, both had play. The replacements I got supplied were very poor quality and unusable. I got one decent refurbed one from Lotus bits. The other 1/2 UJ with the splined shaft they didn’t have. But I found this British company that said no problem we can refurb it! Just posted it here because it took me weeks to find somewhere that could rebuild the UJs. Hope it helps someone. I had a steering wheel shake at 63 mph. Despite balancing the wheel many time it persisted. I then got it road force balanced and their machine detected a defect in the inner barrel. Took it to Harry at Image wheels. He rebuilt the wheel with a new barrel and balanced it. Tried it out perfect no shake throughout the speed range. Should have got the Road force balance at the start!
  6. I think I used aluminium 8 mm pipe, covered in a plastic coating and a mini pipe bender. Something like this..
  7. CX500 wheels anyone who has read this will have seen the difficulty I had getting a set of CX500 compomotive wheels. Well now its easy Image Wheels have remade the CX500 and improved them. The original rolled lips aren’t available but a modern version with better engineering has be made. They call them CXI and are on their website! Wish these were available three years ago! https://www.imagewheels.co.uk/cxi-alloy-wheel/ Whats even better they can be supplied in any pcd, meaning you can keep the original five stud hubs, substantially reducing costs amd making the wheel much better engineering wise. Four stud versions can be machined. They were cast from an original cx500 centre, but are made with an improved alloy. Happy days! Cost is very reasonable as well! Fill your boots Esprit owners!
  8. Hi Roland I would go solid, it gets very hot, rubber will perish and there will be vibration which could causing rubbing and pipe failure. Easy to make a pipe and bend it to fit. I used aluminium.
  9. Not sure the owner said there weren’t any pictures on the website. Maybe they have put them on. They look correct.
  10. Big news, Image wheels have recast the CX500! A guy in South Africa ordered 40 sets, so image recast them from an original centre. The good news is they can be made in any Lotus PCD. Superior quality to the originals, but look the same. The lips don’t have rolled edges, but I don’t think that is a big concern. Will post some pics when they send me them.
  11. Well done for measuring and finding the issue. Parts for this car are becoming an issue. Some of them are now coming from China and the manufacturing tolerances are not up to standard. The issue is most people would not want to pay UK manufacture prices. New old stock original is the way to go. Sadly, these parts seem to be all but gone now. My oil pump measurements were another amazing revelation. Why wouldn’t you make a part the correct thickness?
  12. Queens Pageant picture, seems a long time ago already. Who would have thought an S1 could drive at 1.5 km per hour for 70 mins without any issues! I did spend a month prepping the car though! Still iconic even after 45 years!
  13. Hi Eddy, like the car. The Copper fire paint was formulated in a lab using Lechlar paint technology. I can put you in touch with my paint man, but because you are in the states the cost might be prohibitive, not sure ifvyou can import paint. Lotus paint code for Copper fire is A19. It has been reformulated and looks similar, but is not the same as the original colour. As for the Ski racks I will never make another set, as they were so difficult. It took me more than two years of trial and error. They are totally bespoke and were made by hand. Good luck with the project.
  14. Found this pic on the internet.
  15. Took the opportunity to grease the wheel bearings, adjust the hub end float with a dial gauge, measure the runout and fit new inner felt seals. I was shown how to correctly pack the bearings by an SKF expert who worked for them for ten years. funny who you come across! Oh and I cleaned and greased the calliper pins, anti rattle plate and checked the piston operation. Happy to say its all perfect still. Brake dust does build up though which I cleaned off. Constant work to keep these cars tip top!
  16. New front discs fitted. Now just the steering U/Js to replace I was lucky and got new old stock compomotive hubs fitted too. I am using new protech adjustable front shocks. I really don’t like them and will be replacing them. They ones I have only fit with the adjusting knob removed! Car is running great and a pleasure to drive now the wheels are correctly balanced!
  17. I run synthetic oil in my S1 and Turbo. The molecules are smaller and more consistent, so it could leak if seals are in poor condition. In that case they should be replaced anyway. I also use 10W60, more oil pressure when hot. The S1 sender is very sensitive to resistance. If the spade connection to it is not making good contact it can result in spurious oil pressure readings. Could it have been disturbed when you changed the oil?
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