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  1. I didn't realise this when I sprayed the Nextel. Should have taken the coating over the Apex. Never mind may have to fit a black finishing strip if the Nextel/ black line is visible.
  2. I can't see why they put yellow foam on top. There's also a foam pad to the rear of the tunnel. Have seen a picture of a car with yellow foam all along the top. You never know if someone had modified it, so it might not be original. My car was Originally identical to your interior and Bronze. One of only two s1s like that.
  3. Thanks Jon, all your updates are really useful. Good job on the alternator and the instruments look great! Have been studying the felt problem. The seat rails presumably will hold the rear carpet and felt, so just the forward carpet is a problem. May use the clips with some silicon to stop leaks, if I can figure out how they work!
  4. Thanks. That's a great picture, will really help. Did the top of the tunnel have the same 5mm yellow foam found some traces of this on mine. I did not remove it so don't know how it was originally. Is the material just stretched and glued at the edges on the centre consol or is its glued to the scrim completely? If so are all the other done using the same method. Mine were done professionally but I'm nit happy with the standard so doing them all again!
  5. I had same problem, bought a new one from Lotus bits.£120, perfect easy fix.
  6. Thanks Paul, which face on the Verticle trims had scrim, was it the front or inside edge? Also did the centre tunnel have scrim?
  7. Tailgate Latch. If anyone's reading this whose got a problem adjusting the tailgate latch I just got round to doing it. I have spent several hours on this, so I hope this helps someone in the future. Getting it to close flush, latch and pop up to a height where you can get your fingers in is a big problem. Got it working in the end here's some tips. 1. Get the correct length and pressure spring. I bought a chrome replacement which would not work as it was too strong. To reduce the force needed to close the tailgate I reduced the length of the spring. This resulted in it latching but not popping up high enough to get your. Fingers in! Went back to old spring. This would not work either. 2. Bought a new bolt from S and J, no nut would fit. It's a 1/4 BSF thread! Got the new nut of Ebay. Could not press down far enough to get latch to work. 3. Window not yet in so looked from inside. The bolt was snaging on thread as nut was not tight enough. This resulted in the bolt closing off center and the tailgate being displaced from central when closing. Only a small offest but enough to stop it working. Tightened bolt till thread did not snag. Still enough room for fingers when popped up. Now still being offset by catch attached to tailgate not being central to lower latch or low enough to close catch. Added a shim and adjusted till central by looking at it when closing. Tailgate now pops up and closes easily, flush and central. All I can say iis if your doing this just keep going, eventually it will work if you have the correct spring and number of closed, popped up.
  8. I have to the point of fitting felt. Does the 1/4 felt stop at the edge of the tunnel? With over the top 1/4 inch foam? Think may do mine like this. Larger piece of foam at the rear, why? Have to retrim dash and centre tunnel and everything else,as currently not good enough. Saw Steve Fulcher some time back, remember him saying not all bits had scrim foam under them. Does anyone know how each bit was trimed so can post on here to help anyone who does this in the future?
  9. Has anyone sourced these yet as I am missing both of them?
  10. The brackets that go through the bulkhead to hold the boot board have the nuts on the engine bay side. This means the bulkhead carpet will not sit flush. Should I have the nuts on the inside of the bulkhead and the welded flat plate on the engine side so the bulkhead carpet is flush?
  11. Hi Jon, havn't tried the front screen yet. Does the sealant bead on the lower edge co inside exactly with the black/ Nextel line on the dash or does the inside sealant bead sit lower? So there a small gap over the top of the dash to the sealant? This is important as the Black Nextel line is not perfect if it can be seen.
  12. Do you know if Lotus originally put the tape on, or is it something bespoke from later on?
  13. Not familiar with the tape, does it go on the outside of the glass along the bottom? I was thinking from inside where the sealant touches the dash might look messy without a finishing strip of black plastic?
  14. Hi Jon, Thanks. Yep still have to paint the black in the tailgate and around the door edge. Just thought I,d try and make all the trim clips as the stainless arrived yesterday. Was quite straightforward. Plan to put the tailgate glass in soon. Want to run the engine before carpets. Lot of extra bits to buy, make, replace on this job. Think I have found a source for the serrated headlamp rotor nuts, now I have identified the thread type. Have to buy a wiper bezel also and spray the Nextel screws. Does the front windscreen sealant leave a gap at the front of the dash? Or does the sealant sit on the top of the dash?
  15. Hi Jon, that's looks great! Those hold down tools are great, do you have. An ebay link?
  16. Finally got round to looking at the trim for the screens. I confirm what Jon said. The S and J clips only fit the front windscreen. The tailgate upper and lower clips are different angles. Bought a piece of .5mm stainless for a few quid on ebay. Have made one clip and three left to do. Cut it out of the stainless using a hack saw, file and vice. The trim can be bent by hand to match the curve of the body, be careful though as it bends easily! First clip doesn't look pretty but works. How did I make the clip? 1. Transcribe angel of trim corner to stainless. 2. Cut out and file smooth, with the hacksaw. 3. Scribe width from S and J front clip, make slightly wider than required then file to exact fit. 4. Make 3 more, measuring angle for each one.
  17. Good question. The rotor arm slips slightly on the spindle due to the weight of the pod as the rotor rotates. The serrated nut stops this. Could use a serrated washer? Think I may have found a source fit the serrated nut. Will give you details If it fits.
  18. Can now confirm the thread is 1/4 BSF. Only problem can't buy a serrated nut! Will have to make one.
  19. Jon, what heat reflective material did you use in the end on the rear valance and inside engine cowl? Have just ordered felt.have original style carpet clips but am considering using glue and double side tape? Did anyone use double sided tape for the engine bay carpets also?
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