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  1. Well just completed all circuits, will test tomorrow. Removed all loom tape added all circuits and rebound. Will have extinguisher on hand! Still haven't found correct fuel Union as no threads fit! So decided to research. The thread for the su pump is 3/8 BSP(british standard pattern). I'm then using an adaptor to go to AN( American Navy) 8. This will then go on to the 10mm aluminium fuel pipe. Which I am remaking, as the first one needed adjustment. I have an adaptor ordered from ebay. The loom is much more substantial now. Before testing will tidy up!
  2. Yep IPAD, obviously not compatible. Well if the wiring melts I post a nice picture!
  3. Here's a picture of the rewired relay bases for the headlights, all colour coded wire from Autosparks. The amazing bit, the purple wire in the picture is thin wall, 32 strand and has a capacity of 16 amps! The black wire are thicker and only 8 amp! hoping to test wiring this week!
  4. Thanks Jon, are they bent slightly to match dash curve? Can get some Elan ones from Paul Matty, but there are flat.
  5. Does anyone know if the grills for the Demist vents have a square or rolled edge?
  6. I fitted the wiper box as Paul described, using a 9 mm spacer made of plastic from S and J. Seems to have worked but untested as yet. Planning on electrical test next few weeks.i have a bracket on top.
  7. Have almost finished entire loom. Used thin wall wire for additional circuits. How do you determine what the current carrying capacity is of a wire? Easy, count the strands. This thin wall wire is incredible, it can carry up to 16.5 amps and has 32 strands of thin copper. It's much thinner than the original 8.75amp wire used in the old loom. Easy to add circuits to loom without it becoming too bulky and you can buy the wire colour coded. Have up graded fan circuits with a relay and additional overide switch. Have also upgraded the headlamp motor wires. Easy to rebind the loom in black pvc loom tape. The whole job much easier and quicker than I first thought. Just need to add a fasten belts wire and choke switch wiring. The fans are also finished and tested. They are in blower config, are 7 inch and are placed in front on the rad. have used waterproof plugs. the fans are bespoke and come from Kenlowe.
  8. Have completed removal of S1 pod motor wiring, and rebound. Have decided to replace all relay bases, so everything will be as new. The relay bases are easy to remove. Use something small like a rivet to press down the metal tabs on the spade connectors within the base, then the connector pulls out. New bases are available from that well known supplier unwired. Only have two more cables to insert and the front loom is completed as per my original. Have to say the thought of adjusting the loom is much worse than just getting on with it. Hasn't taken long at all so far.
  9. For anyone with no electronics knowledge pins 86 and 85 are a solenoid( electromagnet). Above this in the diagram is the switch which is actuated by passing current through pins86/85. Then you just follow the circuit in the Lotus manual.
  10. The relays used are the 5 pin type, this is what is inside the relay. If you have light motor problems - easy to test relay operation and circuit continuity with the relay diagram and a test meter. Once you know this it's much easier to understand how the circuit works. Although to replicate the original loom requires no understanding. Im turning the new loom into an exact copy of the original, except using thin wall cable for the 17 amp circuits to keep the bulk down. I have ordered all the colour coded cable from Autosparks. Can't fault them they are helpful reasonably priced and the cable arrives quickly. So far cost £30 for more than enough wire and bits to complete. This is how I intend to do it.1. Identify all missing wires, their current rating, then order from a supplier.2. Using your ebay £7 test meter in resistance mode, determine the start and end position of each wire. 3. Cut to the required length and attach fittings.4 loosely tape all missing wires to loom.5. Unbind the loom over a small section working along the loom at the same time, ensuring all wires are still neat, rebind the loom with new tape and the new wires integrated.pNew circuits can easily be added if required. The design of my old loom was pretty good, so no need to change( as it had been modified by Lotus from the early S1) - It was just a bit old and grubby, but could have been renovated. Still always nice to have something totally new. Shame most of the wiring will be hidden.
  11. Can't see very well from the picture, but it doesn't look good - heartbreaking. Totally their problem to rectify and compensate.
  12. Need something that is heat resistant, reasonably priced and waterproof for inside of engine cowl and rear valance. Is this it?
  13. Is this the reverse light switch connection, on the gearbox?
  14. Have got the headlight motors working on a temporary circuit with four relays. The new loom is extremely sparse compared to the old one which bares more resemblance to an S2. Well, I can now confirm the purple power cable is 17 amp in the old loom. The motors rotate in only one direction. Two current signals from the switch are required to raise and lower the pods. It will take a while to add all the additional wires to the old loom. All the associated switching wires are also missing. Might be easier even at this stage to revert to the old loom? Will keep going at the moment, adding to the new loom wire by wire. Will then have to rebind it all.
  15. Looks good, will be very quiet. Have you completed the rewire?
  16. Paul, expect linkages will pull out if they are adjusted two short, will definately experiment with the adjustment before applying power. Would be a shame to destroy pods after so much work. May have a different set up to you. My pods are mechanically independant, but only linked electronically.
  17. I have a parallel circuit from the original loom which I am using. Think your right the new loom is insufficient for the extra load so am increasing to 17 amp cable to the fuse box. Have to figure out if I can use any of the S1 wiring to the relays for control of the lights. The dual blower circuit I have from the old loom. It doesn't have relays and is 17 amp wire, plugs straight onto fuse box. The Horns are a problem. The twin snails have wiring already on the loom and no relay. Has anyone unrated the wiring on these, they are rated at 10 amp? Then have to fit a choke switch and seat belts circuit. The S1 loom has only a fraction of the wiring on my old loom, still considering switching back if I don't like how this turns out. Will measure all current flows and wire ratings when I test it out. Most of the loom is now fitted apart from the mods. Was hoping this would be a quick job, think it would be a lot easier if I did another one. Anyone with experience could do this a lot quicker - I'm starting from scratch.
  18. No but did have a look at a car being retrimmed by Steve Fulcher, there was only carpet on the rear bulkhead and the original sound material. The felt was thinner over the tunnel and 1/2 inch I think on the floor. Held in place by the carpet clips no glue on floor. Please could you take some pictures when you do the felt trim.
  19. No, I think the twin motors are a big improvement. Will have to figure out how the circuit works as the new harness has single motor wiring. May adapt this part of the circuit. Have run some tests and got the motors moving in the same direction, just wanted to confirm this is correct before connecting the pods. Seems logical the stops inside cut motor power at the right time to make a single direction operation possible and the wiring would be simpler.
  20. Have just begun wiring these. Can someone confirm in operation should they rotate in one direction then stop, reverse direction then stop? Or do they just rotate in the same direction and stop to raise and lower. If they reverse will have to dismantle entire unit to determine how they are wired, unless someone has a circuit diagram for them.
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