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Lotusfab

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Everything posted by Lotusfab

  1. Thanks Tony that's exactly what I needed, excellent post.
  2. Autosparks( found on the internet) make the whole harness for about £450. You still may have to modify the base harness for dual blowers, twin headlight motors, halogen bulbs etc. the best solution is a new harness but it's also the most expensive. You could repair the one you have with the same colour coded and guage wires, also available very cheaply from Autosparks, about 21p per meter. There is a colour coded wiring diagram on the forum which you might find useful. You could remake the burnt sections and rebind the harness, this repair would look as new and be much cheaper, but would take longer. Having evaluated all of this, for me, the best solution was to start again. It's a personal choice no right or wrong answer. The only thing I don't like about the Esprit wiring is it's lack of protection from the heat of the engine. Think I may cover some of the loom in heat reflective material. Good luck with the build.
  3. Bill have a look on my resto blog. Have finished rewiring the engine bay. Made up new wiring for fuel pump. Biggest delay ordering and waiting for colour coded wiring to arrive, as circuits are added. Can't really give estimate as am doing loom as I go, lots of other bits. All I can say is about 1/2 a day so far - as I have never rewired an Esprit before. Very simple loom, no worries. New loom is definately the quickest method but costs more. The old loom needed replacing.
  4. Am rapidly approaching the retrim of the entire car. I am going to replicate the tartan interior and would like it to be as accurate as possible. Starting boot first. Have some detailed pictures from internet. Does anyone have an original s1 with any pictures of the trim. Need close ups of the rear bulkhead carpet, carpet edging and quarter window area. I have no idea around the quarter window as to how it was finished. This is my car at the moment. if anyone has sourced authentic edging or other please could you let me know. Think Woolies may be the supplier for most bits. It appears from some pictures that a push on trim was used around the rivited edge in the photograph.
  5. Brian, have posted some pics on my restoration blog, pt2 the continuation, have adopted this solution after getting some expert advice hope it's of use.
  6. Started on fuel vent system. Have done a complete 180 in thinking. Have decided to adopt the T piece return system, without valves. The vent valve shuts of the fuel line if the car inverts. Providing the final vent is lower than the fuel tank when the car inverts it is higher and no fuel can leak out. Also the 6 m length of pipe is needed to prevent fumes being smelt, short lengths would not be as effective. the inline pipe on the left to the filler neck vent. The left to the filler neck vent on the other tank. The lower vent pipe also to the other side of the car and down and out just in front of the offside wheel. Taped the two hoses at intervals to hold whilst using contact adhesive. The pipe is fitted just above the bulkhead in the recess and will cover with carpet.the pipes are not visible from the rear above the bulkhead. they are also not visible above the 1/4 window, as seen here.job not complete yet pipe will eventually pass out below as described. Wiring complete in engine bay new loom worked well, only an extension circuit needed for fuel pump. Fuel system all complete, used all original unions with Locktite ultra expensive sealant!!!.
  7. This is the bracket. Should the board bolt to the bracket with the welded bar and two bolts facing down? There would then be a flat surface on top for the carpet?
  8. Thanks Simon, that one of the best posts I've seen, show you how to do the job. Thankyou.
  9. Will post no problem, might take a week or two to get it sorted.
  10. Hi Paul, have hot the small brackets already fitted. Was referring to the larger ones that bolt through the bulkhead to hold the boot boards.
  11. The latest info I have makes sense. The long doubling of the pipe makes it less likely fumes with be a problem. If the car inverted the breather exiting just in front of the rear wheel arch would be above the fuel tank and so the fuel could not run out unless the breather was ruptured. Unlikely event. The valves above would still work and might be a better solution, but I think longer breather lines should be used to help prevent fumes. Think I'm going down the valveless route( have the valves already, so will revert to plan A if not satisfied.
  12. Thanks, will have a look. Shame the images have gone that's looks like a great write up!
  13. Is it riveted through the same holes a the finisher?
  14. Well have been given incorrect info on this. Apparently UK cars didn't have the rollover valve, just federal cars. If short pipes are used more chance of fumes. With the parts manual vent pipe type installation a rollover valve is not required because the vent pipe outlet is lower than the tank ( higher if the car inverts). Should have thought of this myself, never mind Collin Chapman did already! Ps pipe exit is single pipe just infront of rear wheel. The wheel arch hole is for the boot board I think?
  15. Thanks Vin, any pictures - is it glued or friction fit with finisher?
  16. Does the boot board bracket (next to bulkhead) bolt to the boot board using the welded strip with two bolts on so that the bolts face down and the carpet lies flat on top? Any pictures appreciated. Also there are two metal brackets with a finger grip on top, havn't got a clue. Where these go?
  17. Has anyone fitted the silver trim to the inside of the finisher? Any advice appreciated. Do you have to cut the downward piece so that it can fit over the roof?
  18. Thanks John, that's not far might pop in and see what they have.
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