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Lotusfab

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Everything posted by Lotusfab

  1. Just got round to finishing the fuel system. The parts 3 ( metal ring) and 4 (fiber washer) please could you confirm the washer goes up against the paintwork around the filler neck on the outside and the metal ring fits on top with screws thru the body to the filler neck metal body which is inside the car. Thanks.
  2. Yep ideally should have been done before spraying. Difficult when taking over part way thru a project. Have found it's very close only 4 mm out, light pressure and it's in line - may try clamping and see if it takes up shape. It's been in storage and might have distorted very slightly. Else will re rivet and reglass rear only to achieve the profile. There's always a solution with enough time and effort!
  3. Got a new rubber seal,no pads on corners. Have adjusted pods they fit well. Seem like it may have left the factory like this?
  4. Have just got round to doing this. The bonnet is siting proud by about 4 mm at the front corners, has anyone come across this before? Maybe left the factory like that. Don't know why the pictures always invert! Never going to fit in Qs accessories at this rate!
  5. I have found during this restoration that the manuals for this car are very limited and tell you nothing about how to reassemble the car. I have also noticed that cars vary on how they have been reassembled. I suppose it doesn't matter for most parts, as long as you use common sense and take your time. Most parts don't fit very well without adjustment or a lot of effort. The bearing system on the light pods took ages to sort out. I have one light pod installed. The other is almost there after weeks of work. I have decided to copy the bond car. I have the tartan interior and orange carpet. I am going to recover the tartan headrest in green material as per Mr Bonds Esprit.Pinewood had it changed for photographic reasons. Also I will fit the black door handles and centre ashtray. Have decided to give the missiles and underwater modifications a miss, as they were not allowed for in the budget!
  6. The light pods have been completely rebuilt and rewired, a lot of work! Even new spire clips and stainless rims.
  7. Still going, the boxes of parts nearly empty! Decals sorted. Latest pictures.
  8. Hi. Gordon, Have you tried Rimmer bros? They have ignition switches that should work you will have to photograph or take the lock down to them. Else PNM engineering are excellent. They have a box of steering locks and ignition switches. They sold me the whole steering lock, key and ignition switch. Try Peter or John, I'm sure they can help you. I had searched the whole country before they came up trumps.
  9. Decals now on! Available from decal fever if you need some.
  10. Thanks Vin, my fault - that's cleared it up for me, the finisher is also called the capping rail. On S and J s website it looks black because of how the picture is taken, but it's silver trim. It's the capping I meant to refer to and not the cant rail! So the my question should have been has the S 1 got a silver capping rail, which Paul has answered. Thanks all. Will only cost me £150!!!!!!
  11. Neither do I! To add to the confusion, S and J have a picture under Capping Rail Trim. Thought it was black but it may be silver? Where is it from?
  12. The seal I was referring to is sold by S and J. It is black and is shown in cross section at the top of the finisher. It's not sealant but a rubber seal which runs the length of the finisher. Not sure if this part was added later after the s1, as cannot see the black seal on S1 pictures?
  13. Have finally figured this out with a little help from Steve at S and J. There are four bearings they are not identical!they must be paired correctly as they are brazed at different angles. There are sixteen possible combinations of bearing position! They can' only work in one of the ways. There are 4 glacier bushes which are drifted into position in the bearing housings- this is not clear on the diagram. A lot of patience is required and dry fitting till you stumble across the correct pattern.
  14. I actually am showing my ignorance! I meant finisher, the cant rails on the inside. The rubber seal I mean is at the top in the picture between the body and finisher. Thought I had heard it referred to as cant rail before? Ps Paul, think I will fit two electric horns as they're good value on ebay and the compressor will draw too much current.
  15. Going to put the cant rail trim back on soon. The manual shows a rubber seal between the cant rail and the body. The part is available from S and J sportscars. Did the Esprit s1 have the black rubber seal fitted, as I can't see it in any old pictures?
  16. MA 28 Hazard Flasher Unit A007M4124ZL * * 1 Clip, Flasher. A036M630IZC * * 1 Horn, High Note A075M6062ZF * 1 Horn, Low Note A075M6063ZL * 1 Horn, High Note, "Stritone" A079M6087H * 1 Horn, Low Note, "Stritone" A079M6086H * 1 Mounting Bracket A079M6089H * 2 Parts manual extract from electrical section, note high and low note, believe these are the air horns. Also there is an article on the Esprit fact file, google esprit Sad Cow Horn Disease. Apparently they were installed next to the washer bottle on the slot wheel arch side. Of course can be supplied by S an J for a price!
  17. Hi Vin, think I may have not been very clear. My harness is for an S1 with Veglia gauges. The early S1s didn't have dual blower or dual headlamp motors, so the new Harness didn't have these either. I believe an S2 harness will have wiring for dual headlamp and blowers with smith gauges, so you should not need to modify. It is an expensive route. If you do decide to use S and J you would need to confirm the harness suits your car and does not need any modifying. Cheers.
  18. Hi Vin, Have started to look at the loom in more detail. My car is an S1. The loom supplied by S and J does not allow for twin headlight motors or dual blower fan. Having looked at the original loom lotus seems to have just added extra circuits independent of the main loom and then taken power directly from the fuse box. Lucky for me an easy addition to the new loom. As I said before the wire rating on the new loom has been downgraded from the original. The wires are thinner and have lesser current ratings. Theoretically they will handle the current loads. However any modification to the new loom would easily push the wiring over its current rating. Have looked into upgrading lights to halogen. Decided to stay with sealed beams. However if Halogens are used with the same wattage as the sealed beams there should be no wiring upgrade required. Although a relay might be advisable.
  19. Think air horns were originally fitted to the s1. They were black and had a small compressor. S and J sell replacements for a price ! Was thinking of putting them back on my car. It has a compressor which doesn't work. Someone put in an electric horn later on, but the pipe was still there for the air horn. It was fitted on the opposite side to the washer bottle, not sure which side is correct. Quite a current load for the compressor.
  20. Should add after Eric kindly supplied some exact measurements and noting some differences on the first attempt decal(the one in the ruler picture above), I worked with Decal fever and corrected all the discrepancies. The decal above is now available and on their website - very reasonably priced (decal fever ) and all the hard work has been done. Compared to all the others I have seen its much closer to the original. The picture just above is taken from one of the original bond cars that featured in the movie. The decal appears the same as Eric's. Quite a lot of effort for something which you would have thought would not ever have been a problem.
  21. This is the finished decal available to all from the decal fever website. It is a pretty good copy of the original and almost the exact size. It's very different to the decal above. But the same as the one on the Bond car.
  22. The front brake circuit union to the front of the master cylinder is about M14 whilst the rear is M10. Does anyone know what the reason for this is? Also are the front and rear circuits both 3/16. The front union I have has a larger bore, about 6mm. Picture shows front and rear unions from the master cylinder.
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