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Everything posted by Lotusfab

  1. Heres a reminder of all the loom tape I had to peel off eight years ago. Gutting when you have just spent£460 on the loom! As you can see this was a deep resto! I sat there for hours and hours checking all the circuits and even the printed circuit board before I found the duff wire put in by the loom manufacturer. Good job I decided to cut it. This fault finding was really A level!
  2. Its eight years ago now, but I couldn't get anything to work. I think it was red. I had to trace every wire individually. After weeks of diagnosis I couldn’t not work out what the wire was doing so I decided to cut it. As soon as I did the display came to life and was able to test my light and motor circuits which all worked first time! Buying new looms can be a risky business! Considering the amount I paid it would have been far quicker, cheaper and easier to upgrade the original. I have also learned a lot abount crimping. Its easy if you have the correct tool and decent crimps. I have about four tools I bought from ebay. Only one was able to crimp properly and I used it so much the die in it broke in half! The best place to by the tool and crimps is Autosparks. It works properly and costs about £40 with crimps. You can achieve the same quality as a newly manufactured loom.
  3. I had that problem and had to remake it in several areas. I made the dual headlight system from scratch using the manual wiring diagram. Funny enough it worked better than the ready made loom which had an extra wire which was shorting out the veglia! I upgraded some of the main loom wires and added several missing circuits. If I ever do another car, which is very unlikely I would use the original loom, peel the tape of and replace only wires that needed it. I have 8 years of experience now which helps. I plan to extensively test my car to its limit over the next few weeks and see how the fans perform. Of course I will inspect all the wires again!
  4. Thanks. I have triple Kenlowe fans which were made bespoke for my radiator. Luckily I don’t have the same loom as other S1s. I bought it new and then had to add circuits including the dual headlight motor bit will all the relays! I have modern thin wall cable in it which has a much greater current capacity than the old stuff for a much smaller width. The fan wires are pretty beefy compared with the others. I have been running the set up for 8 years now. This is the first time I have examined the connections. There is no melting of the wires just heat generated by the high resistance of the poor crimp. I replaced it and tested it, no heat of any note. A lucky find! I have just completed the override switch which is now working, with a secondary feed to the engine bay. I will make a relay circuit for this and the blower. Testing and temperature measuring and all the mods will be complete. I will do more extensive testing and keep an eye on it and just about everything else. You never really finish these cars!
  5. Well my go over is taking longer than expected. I spent all day yesterday trying to install an Override and blower fan control. I don't want any addition wires from rear to front as all the trim would have to come out. I have a new wiring loom installed. The S1 cooling fans never had a relay. This is really bad news as it's only a matter of time before the wires melt! Luckily I installed a 40 amp relay. However look what I found…These wires are more than adequate to carry the fan current. The above was the result of a bad crimp! I did it so only me to blame. I have cut the end of and made a new crimp. I have tested it and no over heating, a lucky find! I am about to spend another da6 working on the fans. I have a solution. I am connecting an override switch directly to this relay. I will then use the long black orange obsolete otter wire to control a relay in the boot for the blower. The override switch will be double pole so I don’t get the blower on when my thermal switch turns the main fans on. If I get in extreme temperatures I will hit the override for all four fans! can’t believe how long this has taken from concept to solution, it alL seems so simple!
  6. It wasn’t me I forgot about it!
  7. Thats a good idea. It was easier to trace this fault with two people, preferably someone who knows Lotus cars. I have found when people try to help who don’t know the cars things break! One moving the wheel and the other at the UJ. The upper joint you could do yourself. The lower one you need someone on the outside looking at the UJ with a torch and the front wheel turned or off while you move the wheel. You need to jack both front wheels off the ground to detect the steering faults in the UJs. I could feel the play in the upper joint. The wheel would turn a very small amount before the UJs turned. I was lucky Andy on here, an experienced Turbo owner, was helping. I found the upper joint play and he found the lower.
  8. Thanks they are phased, but I will recheck. It wasn’t doing it with the other column, which is odd! Anyhow both U Js are worn, so still more work.
  9. Good you sorted the wheel! I noticed play when I was driving up and down and side to side. I thought it was the column, so took the wheel off and found play in the upper bearing. I then replaced the column and there was still play! I then realised the wheel was moving on the boss! All six screws were loose. There was no play in the old lower bearing. After I did all this it was a lot better but exposed a noise like a notch every 180 degrees. After investigation with a friend we found the wheel moved very slightly before the wheels. On visual inspection and feel slight play in both U/Js! More work!
  10. Well thats a relief all running again! Now just to fit a fan overide, bilge blower, adjust the clutch and the fun part do some testing!
  11. That exactly what I will have to do😩😩😩😩😩Still afterwards I will have replaced the whole steering system! You may have to check the momo screws are tight and have thread lock.
  12. The steering play didn’t turn out to be so simple. Have tightened the Momo steering wheel screws and replaced the steering column the play was massively reduced but still not perfect. This exposed play in both universal joints! My next job!
  13. Hi Henry, great question. The answer is yes and no! Initially I decided to remove the flow lock valve. Its a magnetic fuel cut off. When theres no power it cuts the fuel supply off, handy If you end up inverted- but I am sure if this happens and you can’t get out you will have more pressing concerns! As the risk of this is very low I decided to remove the valve. I didn’t know its other purpose is to prevent fuel syphoning when on a slope. The Esprits tanks are much lower than the carbs, so I don’t think this is relevant. Early S1 s didn’t have the valve anyhow after a lot of consideration I have decided to reinstall the flow lock valve. Why? Well the main reason is it has a bracket that secures it to the chassis and supports the fuel line in an easy manner. The other is If I am wrong and fuel syphon is possible in the Esprit it would lead to other problems. Because of the flow locks simple design failure is very unlikely, so back in the fuel line it goes! I plan to fit the completed new line later today so the car will be drivable. Then its only temperature testing, fan override and Bilge blower to complete all of my updates.
  14. So wiring complete with extra start voltage boost! Should finish the fuel line tomorrow and then will be drivable. Final piece of the puzzle bilge blower and temperature testing. my previously restored engine after four years of use in all weathers.
  15. I have a thermostatic sensor in the radiator outlet and a temperature selector, so you can set whatever you want. I have decided to use the otter switch connections for a manual overide. I plan to add a bilge blower, so all four fans (three Kenlows on the rad) will switch on when you hit it. Lotusbits make all the pipe now bespoke if required and in house. Easy for them to knock up a pipe without the Otter switch bit!
  16. Top fuel hose repaired…trying to find a satisfactory method of securing the rest of the hose and in-line filter to the chassis! I have it on good authority Tim Engle, who is an expert on oils and lotsbof other things, picked this oil as the best for the car!
  17. I have a Veglia display so no numbers. With the thicker oil the needle sits higher when its warm. Fitted the new carb filters from Eurocarb. The washers and filters all fitted perfectly.
  18. Another hards days work. Takes ages to change the gearbox oil as all the boot boards and carpet have to come out. I changed the engine oil to mobile one 10W60 fully synthetic. Seems to like it. Far more oil pressure when really hot. I drained the cooling system and replaced the rear cylinder core plug. Went in quite easy and I used Loctite sealant. I have changed the cooling system so the otter switch is redundant. I will be getting rid of wire locked otter switch as it was leaking and a potential failure point. Nearly got the car up to speed. Just the ignition system, fuel pipes and bilge blower left to install!
  19. Well done Dave, a great job as always. I use brake cleaner I haven’t tried carb cleaner. I will give it a try.
  20. That looks great. Whats the cleaning process?
  21. Thats unusual I hope they do fit! I will find out soon and report back Yep your correct, I have learned that lesson only too well over the past 8 years of restoring two cars.
  22. I have ordered new Dellorto carb filters and banjo washers as I will be replacing some of the fuel line with parts from Eurocarb, can’t trust some of the other suppliers - there a lot of rubbish out there!
  23. What Steve said. My Turbo has this and it really springs to life quickly on start. I am hoping the S1 will be the same. I have finally decided to switch from 20W50 to 10w60 full synthetic. I did this on the Turbo and it really likes the oil. Its smoother on start and just seems to like it. There is also more oil pressure when hot.
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