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Lotusfab

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Everything posted by Lotusfab

  1. Thats I have a digital controller and a separate temperature gauge.
  2. Done runs well. At the moment pulling cold air from below and operated by a double pole switch. I did have it in automatic mode. Need to do lots of testing to find out the best set up. Thanks Jon Roberts who sent me some pics of his set up.
  3. Its funny how some cars are restored and work flawlessly until they are sold! 😀😀😀😀
  4. Still makes no sence the thin wall wire 25 amp is 50p per meter. There is a very high chance I have already replaced this bit of the loom but can’t remember. There are no signs of overheat on the wire only the connector. I tested it after the crimp repair it was cool when the fans were running. Before with the failed crimp it was very hot. Anyhow, if I ever did it again I would remake the original loom with uprated high capacity thin wall wires. Today I will have the blower fitted and able to start extensive testing. On Thursday the car is going to Tim at Lakeside engineering we are going to spent a couple of hours going over the entire car looking for issues. Still can’t decide whether Evans Coolant is a good or bad idea and the internet seems to reflect this mixed view.
  5. The crimp caused the overheat on my circuit. I have two friends who are experts, one was an electrical engineer and the other designs electronics they both confirmed it. I only post this so if anyone sees similar damage they know what caused it. You can clearly see the source of overheat is the crimp in the picture. My friend has had crimp issue before in the manufacture of products so is well aware of the characteristics. Incidentally he recommends crimp and the solder.
  6. Voltage shouldn’t drop below 12 V . I tested this with my 45A alternator. It’s 14.2 V without fans. 13.96 V with all fans on. I am upgrading to a 65A alternator. Still not sure about Evans its heat capacity is less than water which means in theory its less able to transfer heat. The good this is it doesn’t creat much pressure which means the chance of a leak is much less and failure due to lack of coolant is less. Tricky to get all the water out. Will have to do several expensive coolant changes. Not sure why autosparks use 8.75 amp cable in the loom for fans. That can’t be enough to power the three original fans. Its so cheap they should spec 25 amp as standard.
  7. Found this resto picso I did replace some green yellow wire, but I can’t remember what?
  8. I called Autosparks who made the loom to find out what rating cable the used to my surprise 8.75 Amps! I replaced lots of the wires and probably stripped out their cable, but can’t be certain. Because of this I am going to replace the yellow and green fan supply wire with one rated at 25 amps, just to be absolutely sure. I have almost finished the fan mod. Now I have removed the otter I have to measure the temperature at the curved pipe to set the fan operating temp. I have also decided to change to alternator to 65 amp. I want to be able to power four fans continuously without issue. Has anyone used Evans coolant? I was thinking of switching. It should reduced the probability of leaks and if it gets hot it won’t boil. Although you could say its better if it boils as you have a warning before engine damage!
  9. Good news is I have completed the fan override circuits.. I throw the switch and all three Kenlowe fans spring to life. I will have a double pole switch so the blower can be controlled separately. I used the redundant otter switch wire to control the blower as I didn’t want to remove the trim to fit extra wires. All I need to do now is make a bracket which will attach to the belllhousing bolts which will support the blower. Once this is done I will do some testing and put some engine bay temperature figures on here.
  10. Heres a reminder of all the loom tape I had to peel off eight years ago. Gutting when you have just spent£460 on the loom! As you can see this was a deep resto! I sat there for hours and hours checking all the circuits and even the printed circuit board before I found the duff wire put in by the loom manufacturer. Good job I decided to cut it. This fault finding was really A level!
  11. Its eight years ago now, but I couldn't get anything to work. I think it was red. I had to trace every wire individually. After weeks of diagnosis I couldn’t not work out what the wire was doing so I decided to cut it. As soon as I did the display came to life and was able to test my light and motor circuits which all worked first time! Buying new looms can be a risky business! Considering the amount I paid it would have been far quicker, cheaper and easier to upgrade the original. I have also learned a lot abount crimping. Its easy if you have the correct tool and decent crimps. I have about four tools I bought from ebay. Only one was able to crimp properly and I used it so much the die in it broke in half! The best place to by the tool and crimps is Autosparks. It works properly and costs about £40 with crimps. You can achieve the same quality as a newly manufactured loom.
  12. I had that problem and had to remake it in several areas. I made the dual headlight system from scratch using the manual wiring diagram. Funny enough it worked better than the ready made loom which had an extra wire which was shorting out the veglia! I upgraded some of the main loom wires and added several missing circuits. If I ever do another car, which is very unlikely I would use the original loom, peel the tape of and replace only wires that needed it. I have 8 years of experience now which helps. I plan to extensively test my car to its limit over the next few weeks and see how the fans perform. Of course I will inspect all the wires again!
  13. Thanks. I have triple Kenlowe fans which were made bespoke for my radiator. Luckily I don’t have the same loom as other S1s. I bought it new and then had to add circuits including the dual headlight motor bit will all the relays! I have modern thin wall cable in it which has a much greater current capacity than the old stuff for a much smaller width. The fan wires are pretty beefy compared with the others. I have been running the set up for 8 years now. This is the first time I have examined the connections. There is no melting of the wires just heat generated by the high resistance of the poor crimp. I replaced it and tested it, no heat of any note. A lucky find! I have just completed the override switch which is now working, with a secondary feed to the engine bay. I will make a relay circuit for this and the blower. Testing and temperature measuring and all the mods will be complete. I will do more extensive testing and keep an eye on it and just about everything else. You never really finish these cars!
  14. Well my go over is taking longer than expected. I spent all day yesterday trying to install an Override and blower fan control. I don't want any addition wires from rear to front as all the trim would have to come out. I have a new wiring loom installed. The S1 cooling fans never had a relay. This is really bad news as it's only a matter of time before the wires melt! Luckily I installed a 40 amp relay. However look what I found…These wires are more than adequate to carry the fan current. The above was the result of a bad crimp! I did it so only me to blame. I have cut the end of and made a new crimp. I have tested it and no over heating, a lucky find! I am about to spend another da6 working on the fans. I have a solution. I am connecting an override switch directly to this relay. I will then use the long black orange obsolete otter wire to control a relay in the boot for the blower. The override switch will be double pole so I don’t get the blower on when my thermal switch turns the main fans on. If I get in extreme temperatures I will hit the override for all four fans! can’t believe how long this has taken from concept to solution, it alL seems so simple!
  15. It wasn’t me I forgot about it!
  16. Thats a good idea. It was easier to trace this fault with two people, preferably someone who knows Lotus cars. I have found when people try to help who don’t know the cars things break! One moving the wheel and the other at the UJ. The upper joint you could do yourself. The lower one you need someone on the outside looking at the UJ with a torch and the front wheel turned or off while you move the wheel. You need to jack both front wheels off the ground to detect the steering faults in the UJs. I could feel the play in the upper joint. The wheel would turn a very small amount before the UJs turned. I was lucky Andy on here, an experienced Turbo owner, was helping. I found the upper joint play and he found the lower.
  17. Thanks they are phased, but I will recheck. It wasn’t doing it with the other column, which is odd! Anyhow both U Js are worn, so still more work.
  18. Good you sorted the wheel! I noticed play when I was driving up and down and side to side. I thought it was the column, so took the wheel off and found play in the upper bearing. I then replaced the column and there was still play! I then realised the wheel was moving on the boss! All six screws were loose. There was no play in the old lower bearing. After I did all this it was a lot better but exposed a noise like a notch every 180 degrees. After investigation with a friend we found the wheel moved very slightly before the wheels. On visual inspection and feel slight play in both U/Js! More work!
  19. Well thats a relief all running again! Now just to fit a fan overide, bilge blower, adjust the clutch and the fun part do some testing!
  20. That exactly what I will have to do😩😩😩😩😩Still afterwards I will have replaced the whole steering system! You may have to check the momo screws are tight and have thread lock.
  21. The steering play didn’t turn out to be so simple. Have tightened the Momo steering wheel screws and replaced the steering column the play was massively reduced but still not perfect. This exposed play in both universal joints! My next job!
  22. Hi Henry, great question. The answer is yes and no! Initially I decided to remove the flow lock valve. Its a magnetic fuel cut off. When theres no power it cuts the fuel supply off, handy If you end up inverted- but I am sure if this happens and you can’t get out you will have more pressing concerns! As the risk of this is very low I decided to remove the valve. I didn’t know its other purpose is to prevent fuel syphoning when on a slope. The Esprits tanks are much lower than the carbs, so I don’t think this is relevant. Early S1 s didn’t have the valve anyhow after a lot of consideration I have decided to reinstall the flow lock valve. Why? Well the main reason is it has a bracket that secures it to the chassis and supports the fuel line in an easy manner. The other is If I am wrong and fuel syphon is possible in the Esprit it would lead to other problems. Because of the flow locks simple design failure is very unlikely, so back in the fuel line it goes! I plan to fit the completed new line later today so the car will be drivable. Then its only temperature testing, fan override and Bilge blower to complete all of my updates.
  23. So wiring complete with extra start voltage boost! Should finish the fuel line tomorrow and then will be drivable. Final piece of the puzzle bilge blower and temperature testing. my previously restored engine after four years of use in all weathers.
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