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Lotusfab

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Everything posted by Lotusfab

  1. Top fuel hose repaired…trying to find a satisfactory method of securing the rest of the hose and in-line filter to the chassis! I have it on good authority Tim Engle, who is an expert on oils and lotsbof other things, picked this oil as the best for the car!
  2. I have a Veglia display so no numbers. With the thicker oil the needle sits higher when its warm. Fitted the new carb filters from Eurocarb. The washers and filters all fitted perfectly.
  3. Another hards days work. Takes ages to change the gearbox oil as all the boot boards and carpet have to come out. I changed the engine oil to mobile one 10W60 fully synthetic. Seems to like it. Far more oil pressure when really hot. I drained the cooling system and replaced the rear cylinder core plug. Went in quite easy and I used Loctite sealant. I have changed the cooling system so the otter switch is redundant. I will be getting rid of wire locked otter switch as it was leaking and a potential failure point. Nearly got the car up to speed. Just the ignition system, fuel pipes and bilge blower left to install!
  4. Well done Dave, a great job as always. I use brake cleaner I haven’t tried carb cleaner. I will give it a try.
  5. That looks great. Whats the cleaning process?
  6. Thats unusual I hope they do fit! I will find out soon and report back Yep your correct, I have learned that lesson only too well over the past 8 years of restoring two cars.
  7. I have ordered new Dellorto carb filters and banjo washers as I will be replacing some of the fuel line with parts from Eurocarb, can’t trust some of the other suppliers - there a lot of rubbish out there!
  8. What Steve said. My Turbo has this and it really springs to life quickly on start. I am hoping the S1 will be the same. I have finally decided to switch from 20W50 to 10w60 full synthetic. I did this on the Turbo and it really likes the oil. Its smoother on start and just seems to like it. There is also more oil pressure when hot.
  9. Slowly working through the jobs. I Have a power spark electronic ignition. The S1 has a resistive wire and ballast coil. I was going to install Andy’s diode starter mod as I have upgraded to a high torque starter, only trouble is I had already used the yellow and white starter wire to power the power spark. I built it all quite quickly so I decided to measure the voltage and resistances. I discovered 7v across the coil. I was using this to power the module which requires 12 v. But where do I find and unfused 12 V supply in the engine bay? Answer purple and white fuel shutoff solenoid. I tested it with a direct 12 v supply. It runs slightly better than before on acceleration! Once I have modified the wiring I will be able to use the yellow and white wire for the increased 12 v starter boost. With iridium spark plugs it should spark like the sun on start up! i have found a lot of degraded fuel hoses so will be replacing them all. I also found the otter switch was was leaking! I forgot this is redundant on my car as I have an adjustable inline thermostat in the radiator. I don't wish to trust wire locked otter switches so will switch out the pipe for a new one without a otter switch hole.
  10. i was lucky. I timed the steering column replacement. 55 mins to take out. 1hr 35 mins to put back. All of the bolts are new though and I have done it before! Easy job by Lotus standards. The new column is a much better design with better bearings. Steering now is as new, perfect! Might as well do the S1 column now I have a bit of practice!
  11. Well all the allen screws in the steering wheel were loose. I had to remove the crash pad with a sharp knife, take the six screws out, put loctite threadlock on them, tighten them all and glue the crash pad back. Sounds tricky but it was quite an easy job and it made a huge difference. Now I have to replace the steering column.
  12. Do you ever finish a Lotus? My Turbo upper steering column bearing has slight play, the steering wheel screws need tightening and I have replaced the front hubs with genuine compomotive ones machined to my wheel spec. Its very difficult to detect the play in the wheel screws. If you hold the boss behind the wheel you can wiggle it if the screws aren’t tight enough. Problem is the crash pad centre has to come off to get to the screws! I have bought a new steering column and just need to install it. The steering column was about the only thing .on this car that had not been rebuilt or changed, as it seemed ok when I put it back in from the resto. I replaced the wheel bearings with the new hubs. I found the felt seals supplied are very poor and don’t fit properly in the hub, also the cotter pin is too tight. Shame you can’t buy parts that fit properly!
  13. As my obsession with these cars continues I have put together a to do list. These are the things I consider are worth doing after four years plus the more regular maintenance items. I have a seepage from the rear cylinder head core plug. I will replace it and use loctite 574 to seal. the corner coolant pipe needs securing I will remove and service each calliper and grease with a fluid change, as required. Also grease all wheel bearings and adjust. I will change the clutch fluid and adjust back to spec I rebuilt the existing steering column but as new later design ones are available I have bought two! I shall fit one to the turbo and one to the S1. The camshaft cover has been resealed about three times in four years. I used the original gasket. The last time I took so much care and it only lasted about 6 months. This time I am fitting a Gary Kemp rubber gasket. I will also correct any flaws in the castings which may be causing the issue. I am also planing to fit a bilge air fan as a back up cooling aid. My S1 has lots of upgrades, some of the earlier ones don't have. It has an airscoop for the air box that faces forward under the body and sucks in cool air for the carbs, it has bespoke triple kenlow fans and an oil cooler. It did 10 hours at 35 degrees whilst filming for the Bond vivant. I must have started the engine about 40 times during the day and there were no fuel vaporisation problems. I have decided to go one step further and fit a blower to pump cool air to the top of the engine bay. Hopefully I will have this all completed in the next few weeks, Especially now Andy has offered some more help even after the belt change. Thanks Andy!
  14. That looks like Jo Chans car? The Copper fire one I mean?
  15. Just saw this, I am a bit behind the curve! The other two lotus experts near London are Max 500 in Guildford and Tim at Lakeside Engineering in Woking. Tim was trained by Lotus and used to maintain Colin Chapmans cars. Max worked with him, but now they have separate garages. Max maintained the Esprit for Top Gear. Both are excellent mechanics and have vast experience of the Esprit. As your post was a long time ago you probably have found someone, but its always useful to know other people.
  16. Dream collection and a very nice plate!
  17. I recently measured the frequency for a brand new fixed belt tensioner with round tooth at 85 Hz in about 15 degrees C using the gates bicycle app at 30 degrees before TDC. I set my newly built engine some time ago to 100 Hz. It whined slightly when hot. It took it to a specialist who confirmed it was tight. Conclusion 85 Hz on the app is probably correct. We set out to calibrate the Burroughs gauge but the spring balance only went to 20 kg. I measured the frequency on the S1 at 114 HZ, before replacing. I don’t know whether the app frequency is correct, I assumed it was.
  18. Thanks to Andy, who seemed to do most of the work, the timing belt has been replaced! We were able to do all of it without raising the car. The S1 has much better access than the Turbo and so the job is easier. We drained about half the coolant so we could get the water pipe off, which prevents belt removal. It took about 5 hrs, but if you did it all the time it would be much quicker. The biggest delay was caused by an error in the S1 manual. The locking pin hole is next to the central bolt, under a washer. When we couldn’t find it in the manual location it caused the delay whilst we thought about it. The hole was covered by a washer. Once we got the washer off we found the hole. We weren't able to insert the pin, so we did what you aren't supposed to and took the whole tensioner off. We then cleaned it all, checked the bearing, replaced the piston with a better one I had, compressed it with a clamp, put the pin back in and replaced it on the engine. Heres a pic of the location hole! It will save someone a lot of hassle. We measured the belt tension using the three methods. The gates app gave 114Hz at 30 BTDC. The Krikit 50 lbs and the Burroughs 75 lbs. The problem here is the belt is trapezoidal and not round tooth. The readings from a correct Turbo were 85HZ with a round tooth belt. Not having a comparison we couldn’t use the frequency. We put the new belt on and found no matter what tension we used the KriKit read 50 lbs. All I can assume is the belt run is too short to measure the tension using the krikit. So that left the Burroughs. It hasn’t been calibrated. We set the tension to 87 lbs using the gauge. To me it feels tight, unable to get 90 degrees. I may actually bin these methods in the future and just use feel. I shall be taking the car to a specialist and getting them to check the tension. If they say its too tight I shall use feel only in the future. This job is so much easier and quicker with two people, so get a mate to help when doing it! I have found lots of other things I need to do on the car. The Exhaust cam cover is leaking again! I have resealed it so many times. It lasts for about 6 months and then fails, a very common problem on these cars.This time I am going to try a Gary Kemp rubber gasket. The car has done about 1200 miles in 4 years since the resto was finished. I have a long list of jobs to do over the next month then it should be tip top again. Andy spotted a dent in the top fuel hose caused by it resting on a carb screw. I will now have to replace the entire hose. Still the engine looks ok considering I haven't done much to it and it sounds great! I used Millers 20/50 synthetic racing oil. My car doesn’t like this. I had it in the Turbo as well its very good quality by in my opinion these cars like thicker oil. After switching to castrol 10W60 racing oil in the Turbo and finding it runs very well I am going to switch to 10W60 in the S1.
  19. Good luck Phil, hope they get a good price.
  20. Well its about eight years ago I started on this car project. My Turbo is done and I am enjoying driving it. I haven’t done much on the S1 since it was finished, so I have decided to go over all the systems and make sure its as good as it can be. It all starts tomorrow with the help of Andy on here I shall be changing the timing belt and working through everything else. My knowledge has improved a lot over the last eight years, hopefully I can put it to good use. I have upgraded the S1 with a dual 12 volt power source hidden in the glove box. For convenience these days you need an iphone supply and bluetooth music connection. Mine links by radio to my original stereo and speakers. Timing belt Biggest issue here is how to check the tension. I have three instruments to help. The iphone belt frequency app, a Krikit gauge and a Burroughs gauge. It will be fun to compare them all. I will keep the updates coming on how the car has faired over the last four years. It still looks amazing, but what are the mechanics like? It has always been very reliable, as was proved when we did ten hours of filming for the Bond Vivant on the hotest day of the year, plus 35 degrees!
  21. The DH Skis were used by Rogers stunt double to make the ski jump. Roger used the SLs and they were on the car. Having said that they are a piece of film history and worth owning. Heres Roger’s foot Glad I got the binding colour spot on.
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