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Lotusfab

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Posts posted by Lotusfab

  1. 1 hour ago, Jack Stone said:

    I read in Roger Moore’s Bond on Bond book that a Cortina d'Ampezzo scene was cut in which Luigi “tampers with a few buttons” while waiting in the passenger seat for Bond at the ice rink. The implication is that there were a few Q branch gadgets fitted to the Turbo Esprit we don’t get to see.
    Any ideas what they might have been @Lotusfab? If not, we could have fun speculating! (I’ll ask John Glen if I ever manage to meet him!)

    Thats interesting! I wish I knew earlier before the Queens Pageant. I could have asked Chris Corbould who did all the Bond special effects for the last 40 years, he would know.

    • Like 1
  2. On 06/10/2022 at 12:18, Rolls said:

    I ended up going with the solid pipe. It was hard to find the olives for the ends but that is now resolved.

    Body will be reunited with the chassis tomorrow. Can’t wait.

    Are you sure it’s 44? (S2). Appears to be significantly larger than that size. I’ll go with your advice if you are confident. Thanks

    Well done Roland, tour nearly there after all the hard work!

    • Like 1
  3. 90F31357-D87A-4186-B6C9-236ADD0BFCF8.thumb.jpeg.f6d4508baadfa69c6df4769eeef8b73c.jpeg

     If this is the pipe that was routed under the air filter that was a cause of the air in the system. It must not be kinked and allow a direct route for air to escape the system to the header tank. There is no need to stand the car on its nose if this pipe is correctly installed. You must recalibrate the temp gauge. If its reading 60 degrees at 100 degrees this is 40 degrees off! What is the real temp at 90 degrees indicated? The fans should be on at this temp.

     

    • Like 1
  4. 9 hours ago, GreenGoddess said:

    Thanks again. I did test the sender unit in boiling water but I could only get it to read 60 degrees on the gauge which was surprising. They are so cheap and easy to replace that I fitted a new one anyway. But the problem still came back. 
    The first time the car “overheated”, the level in the header tank dropped afterwards which would also suggest an air lock. 
    If I get time today I will jack the car up at the rear and try giving all the pipes a good squeeze to see if I can free any trapped air. 
    The car had an engine rebuild 550 miles ago (before I bought it) so there is a good chance that it could be an air lock as the coolant would obviously have been refilled at the time of the rebuild. 

    Heres my blog

     

    Everything you need is on there including the method to recalibrate the temperature gauge. You really should start with an accurate gauge and work from there its easy to recalibrate. It should track correctly within 10 degrees c over the entire range.Watch the gauge as it cools with the thermometer in the boiling water. A large school lab thermometer is best. So to adjust the temp calibration remove the cork atbthe back of the instrument and file off a bit of metal to use as a tool to rotate the calibration mechanism, its all on my blog with pics. Everything you need to save time and methodically fix the issue. If you fans don’t come on at 90 degrees C something is wrong. Maybe the gauge reads 90 degrees but the real temp is lower. It should operate within 5 degrees. This is why you must confirm the gauge is correct before anything else.

    Of course fans not coming on with cause an instant overheat and boiling. I have learned you do not have to tip the car on its nose to clear air. The bleed pipe from the top of the expansion tank to the curved cooling pipe must not be kinked this is where the air escapes. If its kinked the air can’t escape and all the coolant will boil out.

  5. I spent months messing around on my Turbo when the gauge was reading about 110degrees. I changed everything and the fault was the gauge calibration. Its very easy to check in minutes. Have a look at my restoration blog where I give you the method to check it. When a Turbo is working perfectly the gauge never goes beyond 95 degrees in any external temperature. If it does something is wrong with the system. Mine sits at 75 degrees when moving, even in 35 degrees ambient. When stopped it rises slowly to 85 degrees the fans turn on and it drops to about 80 degrees. Fans turn off and the temperature cycles quite happily, reaches about 90 degrees maximum. It operated all day in plus 35 degrees for the Bond vivant movie, no issues. The gauge calibration is easy to check so do it before spending any money. After that is the gauge is correct expand the fixes. Solid state regulator, thermostat, radiator etc. If the thermostat is original its almost certainly not working properly. Buy one that I sourced which are very good quality and now sold buy lotusbits. If you read my blog I go through everything on the car in detail.

    • Like 1
  6. On 28/08/2022 at 23:57, PrecisionMike said:

    Hi. Interesting stuff and I appreciate it's a couple of years after the event but think my recent experience with my oil pump rebuild may be of interest. Upon first dry assembly I found all specified clearances in accordance with workshop manual except that with one shim (gasket) fitted the pump would rotate freely for about 240 degrees and bind slightly over the rest. I measured the thickness of rotor and annulus and found them to be identical and calculated that rotor end float with 1 shim fitted was ok. I checked radial and axial runout of the rotor on its shaft after verifying the shaft ran straight and true. To my amazement I discovered an axial runout at the rotor tips which was in excess of the specified end float. It suggested the bore of the rotor was not square to its surface. I found this to be almost unbelievable since the components are all cnc manufactured . Any way the supplier was great and gave me a new annulus kit. I re measured the rotor axial float......it was Zero😁. I assembled after full re verification and the pump ran smoothly and perfectly and with full conformance to dimensional specification.

    My recommendation is to check every thing and never assume parts are perfect. 

    Not just on lotus but on anything especially if it is non oem, pattern or aftermarket in any way.

    Well done for measuring and finding the issue. Parts for this car are becoming an issue. Some of them are now coming from China and the manufacturing tolerances are not up to standard. The issue is most people would not want to pay UK manufacture prices. New old stock original is the way to go. Sadly, these parts seem to be all but gone now. My oil pump measurements were another amazing revelation. Why wouldn’t you make a part the correct thickness?
     

    • Like 1
  7. On 07/08/2022 at 06:55, Fast Eddy said:

    Here is a pic of #32

    042BE63E-DD54-443C-A428-DF0AA8B750F6.jpeg

    12A89E72-E501-46F7-AFD0-447361ACF0E4.jpeg

    Hi Eddy, like the car. The Copper fire paint was formulated in a lab using Lechlar paint technology. I can put you in touch with my paint man, but because you are in the states the cost might be prohibitive, not sure ifvyou can import paint. Lotus paint code for Copper fire is A19. It has been reformulated and looks similar, but is not the same as the original colour. As for the Ski racks I will never make another set, as they were so difficult. It took me more than two years of trial and error. They are totally bespoke and were made by hand. Good luck with the project.

  8. Took the opportunity to grease the wheel bearings, adjust the hub end float with a dial gauge, measure the runout and fit new inner felt seals. I was shown how to correctly pack the bearings by an SKF expert who worked for them for ten years. funny who you come across! Oh and I cleaned and greased the calliper pins, anti rattle plate  and checked the piston operation. Happy to say its all perfect still. Brake dust does build up though which I cleaned off. Constant work to keep these cars tip top! 

    • Like 1
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