free hit
Corban - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


Basic Account
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

47 Excellent

About Corban

  • Rank

More Info

  • Name
  • Car
    Esprit Turbo SE MY90
  • Modifications
    Sport exhaust, braided clutch hose, ram air intake, uprated injectors 4x370 cc + 2x270 cc, chip #5
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

2,000 profile views
  1. The car was right hand drive, which here in Sweden is a bummer when you want to overtake on curvy roads. The Chinese company never corrected their mistake and never sent me the unit I ordered. After 30-40 e-mails, I gave up and decided to cut my loses and NEVER order anything from China again! I realized that tuning the carb engine would be much harder than just upgrading to an SE with LHD I started reading the ads and found an SE, MY90 after some weeks. Sold the RHD MY88 and bought the SE. Problem solved!
  2. Best looking 911 I've ever seen! The BRG one is yours too?
  3. There is a thread about the tool: Last I heard it was with Vanya and maybe on its way to Jaques.
  4. Two neat installations. I notice you stil have the spare wheel John and managed to squeeze pump and reservoir in. Loren, looking at your engine I notice a trigger wheel on the belt pulley. So you have upgraded the engine management system? Let's add up some mods, electric water pump, electric vacuum pump and no AC. Those things alone should free up some horsepower, my guess is somewhere between 10-15 only from doing that.
  5. @Loren Stump I really like your installation. Do you have the name/type of the vacuum sensor you are using?
  6. The old vacuum pump was belt driven on the same belt as the water pump, so it was always running. I think this changed when they introduced power assisted steering. That pump replaced the vacuum pump.
  7. That is a nice solution. I rewired my installation yesterday. I let the brake warning light signal (low vacuum) trigger a timer circuit with adjustable time setting. Right now it is set at a 10 sec running time which seem to be enough to generate sufficient vacuum in the system. I can now do four depressions of the brake pedal before the pump starts again. Next step is to find a tank/reservoir in order to increase the volume of the system.
  8. Now I've fitted a non return valve between pump and servo, works fine. No warning light comes on when pump turned off. I can do three full moves with the brake pedal before light comes on. Andy, I think you are right. Pump will only reach enough vacuum to turn out light. There will be no extra vacuum stored and the light will constantly turn on and off.
  9. Think it's mechanical, pos 105 is called "switch, low vacuum warning"
  10. There is a sensor attached to the brake servo and it turns on the main brake warning light, so it is the same signal as when you apply hand brake. Was planning to use that signal to trigger a relay to the pump (there is a T-piece on the hose just below the servo with a small hose to the sensor). Check engine light didn't come on when I tested it today but the pump runs hot when in continous use. I will have to source a vacuum tank, a one-way valve and a pressure relay to complete the installation and make it reliable.
  11. Status update. Yesterday I was done thinking and planning and the decision was made to mount the pump close to the master brake cylinder. I put a screw in the hose where the old pump was connected to seal it off. Inserted a "T-piece" in the section of hose that is closest to the brake servo and connected the pump to that. I ran the pump with a separate 12V battery to test and I could see the flap to the ventilation outdoor air intake open. Started the engine and noticed that the brake warning light went out as normal. (looking good so far!) Drove the car in my yard and checked the brakes, they worked and felt like normal. Stopped the new pump and imediately the brake warning light came on, so either the vacuum reserve in the brake servo isn't big enough or I have a leak in the system (probably in the ventilation controls as the flap started to close right away). Started the pump again and after roughly one minute the "check engine" light came on. It did not come on earlier when I started and let the engine run to see if the new belt to the water pump worked. Then I ran the engine for 15 minutes but without the vacuum pump running. This rings a bell. I've seen this during earlier surgery but can't remember what I did at the time. It could have been removal of the EBPV or the throttle vacuum thingy OR it could have been when I connected the electric chargecooler pump via the relay for the EBPV. I think it is an easy fix when I figure it out, any suggestions?
  12. here is link to the page with the video
  13. I'm not done with the complete installation yet. I will try without a seperate accumulator, hoping the volume in the servo is enough. On the Hella home page I found a video of the UP30 and 32 and it didn't look like they were using an extra accumulator. They also seemed to have a "built in" pressure sensor that turned the pump on/off when needed. This, the UP28 is lacking. My plan is to use the Esprit's "low vacuum" relay, route the ground connection via another relay that starts the pump. I still havn't found the right spot to install the vacuum pump. Would like to have it close to the master cylinder. I will keep posting as I progress.
  14. Update on the short belt for the water pump. I ordered one from SJ and it IS short... but it will fit when in place. This is how I did it (it wasn't too hard when I finally mustered the guts). Slacken belt to alternator. Crawl under the car and disconnect the belt from crank pulley. In my case, remove old belt for vacuum and water pump. Before you crawl under, make sure gear is in neutral. Fit the new shorter belt over water pump pulley and place as much of it as you can in the center groove of the crank pulley. Use a 19mm socket with handle and fit to the crank pulley center. Keep the new belt in its groove with a finger (as much of it as possible) and start turning the engine with the socket wrench. Turn in engine's working direction. It will be harder and harder to turn and the belt will start slipping, then I used a large screwdriver as a lever in the outer groove to make the belt keep rotating. It will turn inside out but keep turning, it will adjust itself when completely in the groove. After an hour of trying to fit to crank pulley first, trying to unbolt water pump pulley etc etc this took me less than 5 minutes. Now I'm planning on how to wire my electric vacuum pump and where to place it, bought the Hella UP28.
  15. Thanks for quick replies The Hella pump looks right for the task, so I need to get some kind of accumulator to store the vacuum? Or could the pump just run continously like the mechanical original does? I found a belt with part no A907E6296F in "1980-87 turbo parts list", this looks like it will fit tripple pulley to water pump without the VP ( could it be SJ907E0046?). Sparky! Get over here ASAP! The screws that remain are hard to get a grip on, sheared not flush with surface but some distance in... Think they will have to come out the day I pull the engine. This is my second Esprit and I've had the VP come loose twice on the first one and now three times on the current one. Loctite is a must but it wont prevent bracket failure. It is really a dangerous design since you practically loose all breaking power. Fortunately I've been in situations of low speed and few other cars around, but if it had been spirited driving who knows what could have happened.
  • Create New...