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Corban

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Everything posted by Corban

  1. The tool is now on my desk here in Sweden. I must say it worked like a charm. Lube it up proper and just press it in. No 8 tons needed, don't think I even reached 1 and this was with the thicker end first which at first worried me. I fitted poly ones so I can't verify the rubber ones are equally easy to fit. The tool will get stuck but it is easy to remove using a crowbar between wishbone and tool rim. Now I can start putting the front suspension back together and hopefully take her for a spin this weekend. If you need the tool, the way Barry and I did was very smooth. PM me and I'll
  2. Great news Dan, so the damper can take the load from the spring without breaking? Studied the service notes and it looks like they are removed as an assembly but with compressors fitted to the spring.
  3. I used two traditional spring compressors with a dubble claw at each end. They aren't easy to fit since the spring is conical and there isn't much space between the coils. Make SURE at least one claw at each end has a good grip and is over the center line so it can't escape. I removed as much other stuff that I could first so to get space to fit the compressors. Maybe a model with just one claw at each end is preferable. The lower wishbone goes really low when pressure on the bushings is released. The damper lower anchor point is where it gets stuck when the angle gets too small and th
  4. I'd love to take the SE to Stockholm if time and weather permits. Recieved my new front tires yesterday, they are 205/50-15, already have the rears 245/50-16. None fitted yet. Fitting them together with new bushings all around, I expect it to make the car a different animal (not that it's bad as is). The steering will also be addressed, new UJ's will take care of the play that has developed I hope (rack was replaced 2 years ago according to PO). Didn't go for the full monty (springs and dampers) at this stage, since I'm not sure they are that bad (only 37 000 miles on the odo). Will
  5. It will be picked up for shipping today, ETA September 22. I'll see how complex it is and maybe make a CAD drawing of it that perhaps could be made available here on the forums for download. This would give TLF members, wherever they are in the world, the possibility to have one made. There's been a request from Vanya to have the real world tool when I've done my bushings.
  6. Well I'll follow your advice Barry... Lots of lube and something hard to press with...
  7. OK, old ARB bushing is out and it was not that hard. Inspired by Travis poking around with a screw driver, I stuck a medium sized screw driver between the bushing and the wishbone, turned it 90 degrees and tried to compress the bushing sideways in order to reach the ridge and rest the blade of the screw driver against it. This would work as a wedge and when pressed part of the "lip" would slide on the screw driver. Decided to use a long 19mm socket to press with in order to give the rubber as much space as possible to distort and compress. From there it was a walk in the park. Came right o
  8. That is brilliant! I can see the problems pressing that bushing into place over the ridge without such a device. Think I'll take you up on that offer, I'll send you a pm Barry.
  9. Upper wishbones were not much trouble, used a 19mm socket at one end and a large socket at the other, once they gave, it was an easy push. The small one in the lower wishbone is out and the larger halfway, need to find something deeper of the right size to push it into. Setting fire to the ARB one might be worth testing if cutting it doesn't cut it. If a press an old knife through it, maybe I can make a slice that can be pried out much like Travis suggests.
  10. Hi all, Resurrecting this thread. I'm replacing all my bushings in the front suspension. Is there a trick for the ARB to lower wishbone bushing? Seem tricky to press it out since I guess it sits over a "ridge" in the wishbone. Using a too large tool, it will press against this ridge, too small and I will press it into the hole for the ARB. Also have some problems with the bushings that have a small "lip" at each end. Using a perfectly sized tool and the "lip" will curl up and follow the bushing in thus pinching the tool and on the other side the "lip" will rest on the edge of that
  11. Corban

    Corban

  12. Update! Installed the new fuel pressure regulating valve that arrived yesterday. She started immediately! No fuel leaks, only a slight smell of oil burning off of the exhaust manifold but that I think is residue. To be safe, I will make an oil and filter change before I take her for a longer drive. Slight risk of fuel in the oil and better safe than sorry. Thank you all for your input and helping me find (and solve) this problem
  13. Not only a little fuel in P/N 40... When diaphragm ruptures the full pressure of the fuel in the rail finds its way to the "dry" side of the diaphragm and goes via hose P/N40 to "T-piece" P/N 41 and further on to flood the intake manifold to which P/N 41 is attached. You literally take the total capacity of the fuel pump and connect it directly to the intake manifold. No wonder there was a smell of petrol and the engine stalling, talk about a rich mixture! Didn't dare start it up, fuel was spraying all over with the hose disconnected. With the hose connected I already tried when the tow man pi
  14. I could easily turn them 3/4 to 1 full turn before they started to feel tight. I think this can explain the leaking gasket.
  15. Ian, thanks, I typed before I posted the picture, even before checking parts in the list on the next page. Number 44 is of course the non return valve and 47 is to catch oil droplets/mist I guess. I too think the fuel escaping via the exhaust manifold gasket has worked as a solvent on old deposits in that region, taking oil with it to the ground and the manifold. Since the car is up on stands, I crawled under yesterday and I could tighten the nuts quite a bit for the exhaust manifold for cyl #4. I find this strange since the metal flaps were bent to prevent the nuts coming loose. Sloppy
  16. Good point Richard, I think there is a "T-piece" that connects the hose from inlet manifold to the non return valve (green thingy) serving the crankcase ventilation. It is possible that some fuel has entered that way. Needs checking out before I start her up.
  17. You were absolutely right Vanya. When you concider how hot that exhaust manifold gets, it's a miracle that the unburnt fuel didn't burst into flames right away. When it comes to my SE I'am the "hope for the best, prepare for the worst" kinda guy. Now a broken diaphragm was good news
  18. Absolutely on the right track Ian. Fuel found its way via the small hose from PRV to inlet manifold. Nothing wet or visible on the outside.
  19. Thanks Alan, couldn't find it at SJ first but when I typed the partsno. it showed up at £59.50, cheapest so far. "Add to basket" I guess. I have also been thinking about Travis experience with bad header caps that can't take the pressure they are supposed to thus bringing coolant to a boil at lower temps, sending coolant out the rear left wheel arch. My boot floor was wet in left rear corner when I had the incident and I've had some dripping in that region even after normal driving lately. This might explain my coolant loss. Think I'll get new ones of them too.
  20. Richard!!! Brilliant!!! I disconnected the small hose that comes from the inlet manifold (guess it is the one that should increase fuel pressure when boost rises) and cranked the engine. Had a small cointainer in place and yes, there was lots of fuel coming out! If I understand the design of the FPR-valve correct, that side of the diaphragm should be dry when all is OK. Fuel should only be on the other side, trying to reach the return line and only compressed air (boost) on that side to increase pressure on return valve. So fuel hitting exhaust manifold is unburnt fuel that esca
  21. Back home again after a two day trip. I'll test the fuel pressure regulator as Richard suggest. Quick and easy. I'll post results in a few minutes.
  22. @Kim and Vanya, I like the idea of an active response team, helping Esprit owners in distress Thanks Travis, a list like that is very helpful. Much cursing can be avoided doing things in the right order (there can still be some serious cursing involved though). Here comes a pic of the spark plugs: I've only owned the car for 11 months and I've changed coolant 3 times by now! Oil and oil filter twice. Timing belt twice. Previous service history pretty much unknown. I don't think the engine has been stripped since new. Some 65 000 km on the clock.
  23. Quick report on this evening's investigation. No fuel around injectors or fuel lines when cranked. Looks solid. Fuel coming out of the spark plug holes, so pump is working even if I don't know at which pressure. No oil coming out of the cam tower O-rings. What Travis describes sounds much like what I experienced. Did not lose a gallon of coolant but roughly the content of the header tank. Car only ran for 20-30 seconds after the problem started though. No white smoke. Smell of fuel/exhast from header tank, when opened. Compression test was done on cool engine, don't dare to sta
  24. It would be great if I didn't need to take the lump out. I will remove ch.cooler and turbo heat shield tonight and investigate further. I'll check spark plugs for oil. No smoke from car when running, not blue nor white. Plan of action (feel free to add if you have any suggestions): 1. Crank engine with spark plugs in leads, fuel pump off and check for sparks. This will tell if ignition is the culprit for the stuttering engine. 2. Crank engine with spark plugs out but fuel pump on. Then check for leaks around injectors and fuel lines (and exhaust manifold) This will tell if fuel starvatio
  25. Tow guy thought fuel leak. I was not that sure since fuel feed and return lines are on the other side of the engine and they look ok and are dry. I am moore thinking like this: When engine is running cyl 4 (or 3) gets the fuel it should but does not ignite it. During compression phase air/fuel mixture escapes the cylinder via the broken head gasket and ends up on the exh.manifold taking some oil with it. @Sparky, I don't have one, are they expensive?
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