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Corban

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Everything posted by Corban

  1. Travis, your engine looks even better. Guess they'll have to come out of the car to get a good clean up. The bends on the belt are kind of strange. It was on the right way before it broke. It is hard to bend it and it feels almost brittle. If it was fighting with the timing belt after it broke maybe heat could do this to the belt. Good thing is I have all belts including timing belt and a tensioner bearing at home already Sure is a tough break! It's back on axle stands again after doing the clutch... well, no rest for the wicked But it's not all bad. Gives a sense of achievment to work on th
  2. Darn Travis, that is one nice looking engine, whish mine was that clean... Before I removed alternator the nylon/plastic brace was like in the picture above. Good that I'm not missing a piece here, you scared me there for a bit Andy
  3. This piece seem to be totally missing, can you post a pic of how this should look? Thanks Buddsy: I'm thinking along those lines. Drill out the damaged material and fit a tube in the hole with the right inner diameter. Travis, that was what I was hopping it to be. Still have to check for other causes just to be safe though. The car is now on axle stands in my garage and front left wheel is off, awaiting draining of the coolant...
  4. Yesterday, returning home after enjoying my Esprit to the fullest (new clutch and uprated turbo), the radio died and the charging tell tale came on. Quick inspection this morning showed a broken alternator belt. It was in a really worn state and kept the bent shape, rigid and hard to bend. According to the dealer that sold me the car all belts were changed in July this year (C service). I find it hard to believe that 3 months and 3600 km (2250 miles) could age a belt in this way... But I made another discovery as I was poking around the alternator, it would wiggle if pushed. Certain that this
  5. Update on recent events! New clutch in place, uprated turbo in place, oil and coolant hoses connected. Since the battery had been disconnected during surgery I had a 50km break in run to do first, letting the ECU relearn. The clutch had never felt better and when the floor was out I had decided to revisit the gearchange translator, adjusting the offset to exactly 4 mm ( it was close to 8) and the stick has never felt so "tight" during my ownership. After some 20km temperature started to rise rapidly so I had to pull over and turn the engine off. Header tank empty, I gave the engine opportunity
  6. Christmas comes early this year! Can't believe it is the same rust and grit stricken turbo I sent away two weeks ago!!! Uprated according to specs found on WC-engineering and PUK web sites by a Swedish turbo specialist. Good for a sustained 350 bhp...
  7. A spare input shaft had been great. The alignment tool was a generic one so there was a small slack, 0.5 mm is my guess and I think the flywheel is pretty picky when it comes to alignment. I can't tell for sure that deploying the clutch will solve this in every case but I'm glad I tried it Many thanks to all of you who have helped out with suggestions and hints!
  8. Thanks guys! Gives a sense of achievment to work on a Lotus
  9. Thanks! I blame the clutch on the PO, I have only driven a few hundred kilometers and the PO took the car to a garage, complaining that the clutch didn't disengage when the car got warm. They cleaned THE SLAVE!!! I bought the car from the garage (PO got tired of waiting and decided to let them sell it for him) and put the clutch problem down to the red hose syndrome which they had never heard of!!! Garage used to be an autorized Lotus dealer but do I need to say they aren't anymore, havn't been for a couple of years but they still benefit from past meriths. I used two jacks to connect the low
  10. hmmmm.... don't think it should look like this... Summary of todays work, removed the old clutch and found the cause for my original problem. Debris from the broken clutch unabled total disengagement. Bought a torque wrench and a center tool and the right kind of grease. Cleaned up the fork and its adjustment screw (push pin to slave) and refitted in housing. A little tricky to get the spring in the right position on the pivot. Lined up pressure plate and center on the center tool and jiggled it into position. Torque tightened the bolts to 24Nm gradually while rotating the flywheel. Pushed th
  11. Simple but genious Sparky, why didn't I think of that? Wont be much torque if I apply force on the spanner when it is pointing to the center of the flywheel. Hmm... even at 90 degrees, pulling away from the center should work. @Barry, thanks! reassembly might be another story...
  12. Success so far! Removed lower link. Removed GB mounting bolts. Removed bolts connecting GB to engine. Before that I took the load off the engine on a wooden block and a jack under the sump and another jack with a rubber pad unstrained the GB. Expecting to use a lot of force and trying to remember where I put my crowbar, I figuered I would just wiggle the GB a little. Much to my surprise I could pull it backwards with ease just using my hands. Got it all the way back This, I think might be sufficient space to change the clutch... Should the clutch really be "bearded" like this...??? Think
  13. This week I got my new uprated clutch kit from PNM (30% stronger) and I plan to fit it this weekend. I have removed all that is needed to slide the gearbox back except gearbox mountings and bolts holding the gearbox and engine together. I even removed the turbo because it seemed a good time to do it with the floor out, and sent it away for an upgrade (hopefully back upcoming week). My plan is to slide the gearbox back without separating the drive shafts (seen in some threads on this forum) but I am not sure on where to unbolt the gearbox from the chassie. Removing no 44 and 45 looks like you'
  14. Best points to detache gearbox from chassie? . Can #44 and 45 be removed without disconnecting the lower link to the hubcarrier? Or is it better to remove the four #41?
  15. Good advice on measuring the slave stroke with the slave detached. Maybe pushrod was the wrong word, I guess the 12.5 mm refers to the protrution of the adjustment screw. I was thinking about Vanyas mention of the "rod lenght", the length of the pin/rod that goes from the slave to the fork adjustment screw. How long is it supposed to be?
  16. Thank you all for replying. I like to do tables when I'm troubleshooting. It easy to overlook the obvious otherwise And it quickly shows actions taken when you ask others for help. Advised by Sparky I did a rebleed with the slave detached and nipple pointing upwards and although I bled it with a suction device earlier I still managed to get two tiny bubbles of air leaving the slave. Pumped like 5 reservoirs through the system just to be sure and there were no more air bubbles visible. This did give a better feel to the pedal, it now feels firm. My rear wheels do not rotate when in neutral but
  17. After fitting new primary and secondary injectors the other day I took her for a test drive. Everything was working just fine at first but when the engine gets warmed up the clutch have had a tendency not to release fully. I have put this down to the famous "red hose syndrome" and it has never been a major issue. However, this time, after reving to 6500 rpm in first, I couldn't change up to second gear. It wouldn't even go into neutral, stuck in first. Since I was very near my house I just limped home in first. Managed to go to neutral at a certain rev (guessing wheels/engine revs matched). Co
  18. This could be a great change, I'll look in to it. Then there was a suggestion about a ferry along one of the nicest fjords, this will have to be checked out also.
  19. Feedback from Norway indicates that the area in the first route suggestion was spot on if one wants to see the spectacular parts of Norway, so they are left in, in this next suggestion. Daily stages of roughly 300 km and 5 hours of driving has been my ambition. The new route includes Trollstigen, Atlantic road (curved bridge), some fjords and nice towns. The suggested stops are sometimes points of interest, sometimes just a place to take a break. We will pass Lillehammer, host to the 1994 winter olympics and famous from some serious driving with "Top Gear". Each daily start/stop destina
  20. Thanks for the input Stein Erik, much appreciated! I will check this out.
  21. Currently working on some changes to the route. It seems like the area around Brevik/Larvik could be a good place to start. There are ferry connections from: England, Immingham - Brevik (DFDS) Denmark, Hirtshals - Larvik (Color Line) Sweden, Gothenburg - Brevik (DFDS) Got a report on the Norwegian LC FB group that riding the cargo ferry to Brevik with an S3 was no problem. I will research possible routes from there that will include fun roads and great scenery. I am thinking along the lines of daily stages of 200 - 400 km. Large enough towns / villages to provide both camping and h
  22. Managed to log in.... ( new password requested) have posted a link to this thread.
  23. Norwegian Lotus Club active on facebook, http://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/LotusCarClubNorway/ Forgot my log in, so if anyone would like to check it out and see if it is possible to muster up some response it would be great
  24. Searching the internet I found out that the 2015 international SAAB meeting was arranged by the Norwegian SAAB club. I have traced their route (180 cars turned up) on Google Maps. It was a moving gathering so they moved around during 5 days. Since it was arranged by Norwegians I guess they had local knowledge about things to see and places to visit. Below is the route (roughly) if you want to check it out on maps and below that are the names of some towns to faciltate searching. I also found a video from the meeting, showing in parts what to expect, https://youtu.be/KeiJ2bIe5k4
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