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cammmy

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About cammmy

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    LOTUS

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  • Name
    Cam
  • Car
    Lotus Esprit GT3
  • Location
    London

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  1. The " fairly clement" part is the problem
  2. This thread makes me extremely happy that I now have a garage with a 2 post. I'll need to do the suspension on my GT3 at some point and the thought of doing it outside on axle stands makes me slightly nauseous. You definitely deserve an award.
  3. Ah, fair enough then. I'm running a standalone ECU now.
  4. It does but with the aim of holding a certain level of boost i.e. 0.6 bar. Once you put a wastegate solenoid in there, you are using that to bleed air and push the boost up, effectively overriding the spring. It should bleed all of the signal and hold the gate fully shut until it reaches the desired boost, then feed the right amount of signal back in to the actuator to hold the desired boost level. Unless the standard ECU is just reading straight from a table, it should be able to compensate if the spring rate is slightly different. I'm not saying stick something vastly different in. Just that, in my opinion, it should be able to compensate for a slight difference.
  5. In my opinion, the spring pressure isn't that critical. It doesn't matter if it's slightly above or below factory as it only really counts if the boost controller isn't working. It just sets the absolute minimum boost level you will get. So as long as it's sensible, you will be fine.
  6. That rod is the only thing that holds it closed. When it's snapped it will just flap open and make the car really sluggish
  7. If it drove fine when you parked up, I would look at the boost solenoid. If the wastegate or actuator were faulty, I would expect it to be stuck shut and overboost. The boost solenoid creates a controlled leak in the signal to the actuator, opening it later and allowing a higher boost level than the actuator is set for. As long as you are confident it's not a fuel supply issue, I would suggest you could go WOT to the redline and see if it builds any boost at all I believe these have something like .6 bar wastegate spring? So if the actuator is faulty, it would be slower but still generate boost. If the wastegate was stuck open, it should still build some boost eventually, but it would be extremely sluggish until maybe 5000rpm. It would be good to get a picture of the actuator and the wastegate arm, so we can see if it's closed. I'm currently dealing with the opposite problem; my new turbo is overboosting. Even with the actuator disconnected from the wastegate (which is free to fully open at all times), it's still been overboosting by about 6,000rpm but it's absolutely gutless up until about 4.5k
  8. I'm currently trying to diagnose an overboost issue. Gjk, did you ever confirm whether the 214-474 worked? I use an aftermarket ECU that has a 3A circuit for boost control, so lower resistance shouldn't be an issue for me.
  9. Just going to add my experience for those with a GT3. Everything I'd read said that the GT3 has the weak box until I saw one post that said they started with the 026, switching to the 028 in mid '98. I had a look at mine last night and the tag on the box shows it's an 026, so one of two things must have happened: 1: The box has been replaced at some point, either with an 026 or something labelled as one. 2: The GT3 started out with the 026 and switched later Best to always positively identify what you have, as I was fully expecting to have to buy a new gearbox based on what I'd read. I'm still going to try and identify it through the ratios as well, rather than just trusting the tag. I also have to thank Dave (Changes) for all the advice he's been giving me on Esprit transmissions.
  10. Also to consider if upgrading the turbo, the stock design is not ideal. It crosses the flow of the wastegate with that of the turbine. I'm switching to a turbo with a TD42 pattern. This allows a divorced downpipe that separates the flow; though this affects high rpm performance rather than spool.
  11. Just in case anyone needs this, it looks like the threads in the block are NPT 1/4-18 and the threads on the hose are m14x1.5 I couldn't find an adaptor that would let me leave the fitting in the block, so I took it out. It was in ridiculously tight but came out okay. I thought the block would be BSPT but the 1/4-19 fitting i Bought starts but won't go in. Measured the TPI on the existing fitting and it's 18, not 19; so I believe it's NPT. I'll post up when I know for sure. Hopefully this helps someone in the future.
  12. Just to further this, the new design of the GTX seems to more than make up for it's smaller size: http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?t=2293 This is on a SR20 which which is a 2 litre 4 pot that runs very similar cams, so should be a decent comparison. Also consider vernier cam pulleys. I picked up 10hp on my GT3 (stock turbo) just from those.
  13. I think I've long lost mine as I went to a standalone ECU but it's not hard to made one up. There are instructions around for it. You could probably just use this: FTDI-FT232RL-USB strip the wires and just put the relevant ones (only two from memory, possibly ground and RX) into the proper place in the socket. A bit of a bodge but it worked for me.
  14. Hi all. Not posted in a while as I haven't done much to the Esprit. Spent the last year driving it and then bought a new house and built a garage. I'm currently fitting a GTX2863R and unfortunately the fittings from the old turbo are the wrong size for the new one. I got the old feed hose off but the fitting in the block for the oil feed is in there pretty damn tight and I don't want to risk damaging it to remove it. The plan is to get a reducer to adapt it to the feed hose that came with the turbo. Does anyone know what thread type the fitting is? I believe it to be 1/4 BSPT but I can't be certain. I haven't been able to find this info anywhere. Thanks
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