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    Lotus Esprit GT3
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  1. On my GT3, the ABS and VSS sensors were totally separate. I just removed the VSS sensor and replaced it with a hall type that had the correct thread. It involved running one extra wire along with the existing two. It didn't have any effect on the ABS.
  2. Nice work. It should be super easy to get the wheel speed and A/C hooked up to the MS. For speed, you just need to change the sensor type at the rear wheel and run one extra wire (standard is VR sensor and MS needs hall effect). You can then remove the stock ECU completely. Another benefit of having the speed go through the MS is that you can also fill out the gearing info. That way, the ECU can work out what gear you are in by comparing speed and RPM. Opens up opportunities for things like boost vs gear etc.
  3. I don't believe any ECU will have an ignitor built in. Generally it's either a seperate module or built in to the coil on modern stuff. I'm not sure what the V8 does for ignition but the 4 pots use GM DIS. I kept this so the ignition side was much simpler as it was only a few wires and a simple signal from the MS
  4. Have a read through this thread, there are a couple of links to some good books. I would consider at least one of these mandatory reading before embarking on any aftermarket ECU setup.
  5. Nice. In my experience, a decent tuner should be able to dial in the maps pretty quickly. It's all the other config and settings that take time to configure/work out. Once I had those sorted, I just slapped an MR2 turbo map on mine and added fuel/pulled timing to get it to the tuner. If you can get it to cold and hot start, idle and gently drive okay then you're well on the way. Just don't get tempted to put the boot in until it's been mapped properly. I HIGHLY recommend getting yourself a copy of this:
  6. Interesting. I didn't know that. Pete, I've heard good things about Emerald. One thing I would say though, actually call around and ask tuners near you what they prefer and what they charge. Unfortunately there is only one place anywhere near me that does MS and they are £120 +VAT an hour. They also said they will only work with later model MS ECU's. The tuning is what will cost you the money and you may find a place that's cheaper but prefers Link or Haltech etc.
  7. I know it's not what's being asked and also hasn't been mentioned but... Often you will see ceramic coating being touted as a better alternative to wrap. In my experience, this is not the case. I had my manifold coated by Zircotec at a cost of £300-£400 from memory. They say it should last about 100k miles. Mine has peeled, badly, twice within 5k miles. I've simply given up on it and will just leave it to it's fate as they want me to pay again as it's out of warranty. They are also incredibly slow.
  8. I'm a bit late to the party here but I put an MS3/X in my GT3. For you, I would absolutely go after market; don't even contemplate using the standard one for a custom setup. You would be extremely limited when it comes to mapping and the chips need to be burned, they can't be done live on the dyno (which would mean literal thousands of £ in dyno tuning). The only thing I would say is to check out what the tuners near you support. Looking back, that's for more important (IMO) than whether it's a few hundred £ cheaper than a different brand, which has better support. There's only one tuner
  9. Have you got the pin out/wiring diagram for your stock ECU? I'm not sure if you can feed two ECUs from a single sensor by splitting the signal. You might need some kind of splitter that has smarts. I don't think it would be much extra work over what you've done already and I think you would get more reliability out of it. I would give you my pinout for the MS but it's a 4 cyl. Also, check your earth's. I had an issue where it was going lean at about 4,500 which led me to replace the fuel pump. After two Dyno trips I discovered my earth's weren't good enough. Bad earthing can cau
  10. How have you got it setup so that the Stock ECU does idle but the MS controls everything else? If you already have the MS3 then I would get the X add on and ditch the factory ECU entirely. It will hugely simplify the setup and reduce the chances for issues. If there's one thing I've learned, it's that wasted dyno time due to ECU issues is a lot more expensive and frustrating than spending a bit more time and money up front. the MS3/X should do everything you need and more.
  11. Hmmm, I would highly recommend ditching the factory ECU. The MS2 should be able to do most of those with the right add-ons; or going to an MS3-X would allow you to do all of them. If I was going down this route again. I probably wouldn't bother worrying about the secondaries though. Which is the main thing that the MS2 can't do. Just size your primaries accordingly. How are you going to control the fuel properly with two ECUs? It sounds dangerous.
  12. Hi Have you noticed any difference in how it drives? Does it cut out at high throttle and RPM? What's the scale on these gauges? I would normally expect 0 to be atmospheric and for it to read below this at idle/cruise. A shut wastegate won't cause it to build boost any faster but it will cause it to overboost at full chat, at which point the ECU will go into protection mode and cut power.
  13. I ran a cable from the stock ECU location through the sunroof and into the cabin for tuning. You can do it without needing to make any holes.
  14. At 320hp It's running 1.1 bar and the Dyno operator noted the injectors are okay and holding 11.4:1 fuel at the top end. I've already put a DW200 fuel pump in and adjustable regulator, which should be able to handle more than this engine could ever produce. The regulator has a gauge on it but I would only be able to see it on the Dyno and I wasn't there last time it was tuned. My plan is rebuild the motor and update the trans. Then go for bigger injectors. I already have updated ones from five0. I only asked for them to support 320hp, as when I was buying as I was only thinking about a su
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