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cammmy

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About cammmy

  • Rank
    LOTUS

More Info

  • Name
    Cam
  • Car
    Lotus Esprit GT3
  • Location
    London

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  1. I'm interested in an upgrade and LSD for the GT3 Earlier this year, GTO quoted me £2,300 for the upgrade kit at about £730 for the ATB. Didn't say whether VAT is included though.
  2. Nice one, I have an MS3/X on my GT3. The main trouble I've had is that the only place anywhere near me that will touch those ECU's isn't cheap. I also had an injector driver fail and hold wide open on the X card, but I managed to de-solder it and get a new one on there.
  3. I was just as surprised, considering they are a motorsports shop and not cheap. I would rather make sure it can't happen again though if possible. As you say "if fitted correctly"; I would prefer to remove the if.
  4. Hi, it would be easier but I would prefer it to be a single piece if I can. I had the wheel bearings done professionally last year and I ended up stranded in France and nearly missing my ferry. I also haven't been able to get them apart yet to check for damage to the hubs, which I imagine is a distinct possibility. It was pretty bad by the time I realised it wasn't just a warped rotor and I wasn't going to be able to limp it home. If I can remove the possibility of that ever happening again, I would like to.
  5. Hi All Does anyone know what thread the front hub nuts use? I haven't been able to find this anywhere. I had a brake vibration appear and get progressively worse in France a couple of months ago. Stopped at a local garage as I suspected the wheels bearings were coming loose and they noticed that one of the locking rings was missing (annoying as I had the wheels bearings checked professionally last year). They stacked some washers to hold it long enough for me to get home and she's been parked since. Anyway, I'd prefer to replace the nut/ring solution with castle nuts if I can. I'm not sure why Lotus bothered making another separate piece for this? Thanks Cam
  6. I have a 2.5" straight pipe that leads to a 3" Hayward and Scott V8 style back box. The sound is immense. Just the right volume, burbly absolutely no drone and spits flames on overrun. (and yes, I have changed the dump valve so it no longer sounds like this)
  7. Do you know what hardening process will be required for these?
  8. The " fairly clement" part is the problem
  9. This thread makes me extremely happy that I now have a garage with a 2 post. I'll need to do the suspension on my GT3 at some point and the thought of doing it outside on axle stands makes me slightly nauseous. You definitely deserve an award.
  10. Ah, fair enough then. I'm running a standalone ECU now.
  11. It does but with the aim of holding a certain level of boost i.e. 0.6 bar. Once you put a wastegate solenoid in there, you are using that to bleed air and push the boost up, effectively overriding the spring. It should bleed all of the signal and hold the gate fully shut until it reaches the desired boost, then feed the right amount of signal back in to the actuator to hold the desired boost level. Unless the standard ECU is just reading straight from a table, it should be able to compensate if the spring rate is slightly different. I'm not saying stick something vastly different in. Just that, in my opinion, it should be able to compensate for a slight difference.
  12. In my opinion, the spring pressure isn't that critical. It doesn't matter if it's slightly above or below factory as it only really counts if the boost controller isn't working. It just sets the absolute minimum boost level you will get. So as long as it's sensible, you will be fine.
  13. That rod is the only thing that holds it closed. When it's snapped it will just flap open and make the car really sluggish
  14. If it drove fine when you parked up, I would look at the boost solenoid. If the wastegate or actuator were faulty, I would expect it to be stuck shut and overboost. The boost solenoid creates a controlled leak in the signal to the actuator, opening it later and allowing a higher boost level than the actuator is set for. As long as you are confident it's not a fuel supply issue, I would suggest you could go WOT to the redline and see if it builds any boost at all I believe these have something like .6 bar wastegate spring? So if the actuator is faulty, it would be slower but still generate boost. If the wastegate was stuck open, it should still build some boost eventually, but it would be extremely sluggish until maybe 5000rpm. It would be good to get a picture of the actuator and the wastegate arm, so we can see if it's closed. I'm currently dealing with the opposite problem; my new turbo is overboosting. Even with the actuator disconnected from the wastegate (which is free to fully open at all times), it's still been overboosting by about 6,000rpm but it's absolutely gutless up until about 4.5k
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