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cammmy

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About cammmy

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    LOTUS

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  • Name
    Cam
  • Car
    Lotus Esprit GT3
  • Location
    London

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  1. Ah, fair point. I missed that. I was only talking about manifold referenced. I don't see much point to rising rate unless maybe you have mahoosive injectors and are struggling with them at low load. You could reduce the fuel pressure to give you higher opening times. I would imagine a fuel pressure sensor is very much required for that though
  2. I'm not an engine builder but I think it's 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. A boost referenced regulator means the ECU is doing less work, as flow through the injectors should remain the same and it's not making any compensation calculations. There's probably an argument that it may not react quick enough Vs using pulsewidth on the Injectors to compensate but I would need to see logs to be convinced, as it's a well trodden and seemingly reliable path. The ECU doesn't know for certain how much fuel is going in unless a fuel pressure sensor is added into the mix but, that is something sep
  3. There should be plenty of options available. Try searching "manifold referenced", "boost referenced" or "vacuum referenced" Mine is a Sytec.
  4. A lot of what I know comes from here: https://books.google.co.uk/books/about/Performance_Fuel_Injection_Systems.html?id=Vxi5NAEACAAJ&redir_esc=y I would consider this (or a similar but newer one) mandatory reading before undertaking any EFI project for the first time. It's written by the distributors of MS is the states but it covers all makes. Ah right, your pressure reg isn't boost referenced then? Would it be cheaper and easier to replace it with one that is rather than getting new injectors? Rising rate just accounts for boost/vacuum. If you have 50psi of fuel pressure p
  5. Yeah, I'm a broken record when it comes to running multiple ECU's X-D. I have no issue running batch fire, that's what I do on mine. If you ditch the secondaries and size the primaries accordingly, you don't need an MS3/X. The one thing I will say about the MS. Don't go into it looking to save money unless you have a tuner who will work with them at a decent rate. A lot of tuners won't touch them. I have one that does but they are very high end and charge £120 an hour (and possibly VAT on top of that.) So I likely could have saved money going with a more expensive ECU and a cheaper tuner.
  6. The only way to make it swappable is if you leave all of the wiring intact and also make an adapter to fit the harness to the MS. I tried to do this with the plugs from a broken ECU but it just wasn't practical. Doing this would also mean you can't run a wideband O2 sensor, which is one of the main reasons for going aftermarket. I would highly recommend totally ditching the factory ECU and wiring in a full standalone. If you get the right impedance injectors, the only wiring to be done is changing the wheel speed sensor (need one extra wire running), changing to a wideband O2 sensor(I use
  7. On my GT3, the ABS and VSS sensors were totally separate. I just removed the VSS sensor and replaced it with a hall type that had the correct thread. It involved running one extra wire along with the existing two. It didn't have any effect on the ABS.
  8. Nice work. It should be super easy to get the wheel speed and A/C hooked up to the MS. For speed, you just need to change the sensor type at the rear wheel and run one extra wire (standard is VR sensor and MS needs hall effect). You can then remove the stock ECU completely. Another benefit of having the speed go through the MS is that you can also fill out the gearing info. That way, the ECU can work out what gear you are in by comparing speed and RPM. Opens up opportunities for things like boost vs gear etc.
  9. I don't believe any ECU will have an ignitor built in. Generally it's either a seperate module or built in to the coil on modern stuff. I'm not sure what the V8 does for ignition but the 4 pots use GM DIS. I kept this so the ignition side was much simpler as it was only a few wires and a simple signal from the MS
  10. Have a read through this thread, there are a couple of links to some good books. I would consider at least one of these mandatory reading before embarking on any aftermarket ECU setup.
  11. Nice. In my experience, a decent tuner should be able to dial in the maps pretty quickly. It's all the other config and settings that take time to configure/work out. Once I had those sorted, I just slapped an MR2 turbo map on mine and added fuel/pulled timing to get it to the tuner. If you can get it to cold and hot start, idle and gently drive okay then you're well on the way. Just don't get tempted to put the boot in until it's been mapped properly. I HIGHLY recommend getting yourself a copy of this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Performance-Fuel-Injection-Systems-Cramer/dp/1557885575/
  12. Interesting. I didn't know that. Pete, I've heard good things about Emerald. One thing I would say though, actually call around and ask tuners near you what they prefer and what they charge. Unfortunately there is only one place anywhere near me that does MS and they are £120 +VAT an hour. They also said they will only work with later model MS ECU's. The tuning is what will cost you the money and you may find a place that's cheaper but prefers Link or Haltech etc.
  13. I know it's not what's being asked and also hasn't been mentioned but... Often you will see ceramic coating being touted as a better alternative to wrap. In my experience, this is not the case. I had my manifold coated by Zircotec at a cost of £300-£400 from memory. They say it should last about 100k miles. Mine has peeled, badly, twice within 5k miles. I've simply given up on it and will just leave it to it's fate as they want me to pay again as it's out of warranty. They are also incredibly slow.
  14. I'm a bit late to the party here but I put an MS3/X in my GT3. For you, I would absolutely go after market; don't even contemplate using the standard one for a custom setup. You would be extremely limited when it comes to mapping and the chips need to be burned, they can't be done live on the dyno (which would mean literal thousands of £ in dyno tuning). The only thing I would say is to check out what the tuners near you support. Looking back, that's for more important (IMO) than whether it's a few hundred £ cheaper than a different brand, which has better support. There's only one tuner
  15. Have you got the pin out/wiring diagram for your stock ECU? I'm not sure if you can feed two ECUs from a single sensor by splitting the signal. You might need some kind of splitter that has smarts. I don't think it would be much extra work over what you've done already and I think you would get more reliability out of it. I would give you my pinout for the MS but it's a 4 cyl. Also, check your earth's. I had an issue where it was going lean at about 4,500 which led me to replace the fuel pump. After two Dyno trips I discovered my earth's weren't good enough. Bad earthing can cau
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