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Everything posted by cammmy

  1. I went with an MS3/X with 4 bar MAP sensor: (Though I used a DIY kit.) When it comes to choosing an ECU, first, find a tuner you trust and then see what they will tune with. You can easily lose any savings you make on an ECU in tuning time because it takes them longer, or the only people who work with that ECU are more expensive. That happened to me. This was before I upgraded the turbo:
  2. Thanks but unfortunately, I learned that lesson myself with the hub. He thinks they can weld it back together though. They are an expert classic car outfit, he gets flown around europe to support their customers vintage race cars. It's always awesome visiting their shop.
  3. Okay cool, I'm working on a different car at the moment but I'll try pull that down soon. Mine was tuned on a hub dyno.
  4. Sorry, I meant I bought a generic bearing/seal driver kit but was asking if this special tool is an absolute must. Great, thanks. I'll get in thouch once I have all my supension components back. The old bushes are pretty well stuck in place, so they are at a friend's workshop to be pressed out.
  5. I'm about to do a similar thing as I'm doing a full suspension refresh have a slow leak past the seals. I bought a bearing/seal driver kit to do the job, is it a case of slow and steady should work or is this tool really needed? If someone was willing to loan, I would be happy to provide a 100% deposit and pay the postage.
  6. Personally, I would never consider something as drastic as a turbo upgrade without either standalone management or a flash tune developed for the specific combination you are running. These cars only have a narrowband o2 sensor and the readings are ignored at WOT anyway, so you really are chancing it (not to mention ignition timing requirements). I went full standalone on my GT3 and I highly recommend it. I now have wideband o2 in addition to all of the other advantages. I got 280bhp on the stock turbo and then 290 with vernier pulleys (though I lost a little at the bottom end for that) I now run a GTX2863R which does have a higher boost threshold than the stock turbo but is much more capable. I'm at 320bhp as my injectors are at the max duty cycle I'm comfortable with. The turbo should do around 400 but I want tougher transmission internals and an engine refresh before I explore that.
  7. I have a dyno tuned 920, though I can't remember if I pulled the latest map to the laptop or not. I could post that if you're interested? It's not a stock engine though. Full exhaust incl. manifold, vernier pullies, GTX2863R turbo.
  8. Okay cool. My cooling system works fine but I am running a bigger turbo and 320bhp. If it's just a flow issue then I'll try turning it to hot but leaving the fan off and see, once my suspension is back together and road legal.
  9. My advice is to use the aerotight nuts everywhere on the exhaust. I haven't lost a stud yet but I've lost several turbo to manifold bolts. The other advantage of aerotight style is that they can be had with a smaller hex size than normal, making them much easier to fit. I used stainless on the turbo bolts last time but they still corroded quite quickly, so went to titanium.
  10. Does the carby engine have boost retard or is the base timing set for full boost with only vac advance? If there is a boost retard feature, you absolutely want that. For vac advance I can't see why not having it would remove oil from the bores. The only detriment I can think of is reduced economy and more heat in the exhaust valves/turbo. For the latter I can't imagine it would even approach the temps seen under full load, so doubt it's an issue. Though I will note, when you really load things up, retarded timing is safer for detonation but it's still not good for the engine, for the reasons mentioned above.
  11. So with the stock setup, is it better to run with the heater set to hot or cold?
  12. You have to ask why that was done though, It's quite possible that solenoid is faulty. You do want it working though as the wastegate spring will probably be something like 7psi. Normally the solenoid bleeds the signal to the wastegate so that it will run at the max boost in the tune, which could be 12-14psi. Then there's the overboost, which is a temporary increase Above that normal max.
  13. I've had the cracked manifold and it definitely didn't sound like that. It starts as a ticking and gets louder as the car warms up and the metal expands.
  14. I haven't heard of this issue. What causes it and how do you ensure best cooling if you haven't done this mod?
  15. I asked this question back in 2014 for my GT3 and the consensus was they weren't torque to yeild and could be re-used. I did that and haven't had an issue yet. Car's now running 320bhp and has 4-5k miles since then
  16. Thank you very much for that information! I'm jinxing myself no doubt but, I used a punch as shown and the first one came right out. I'd recommend that over pulling the cable if you can.
  17. Okay cool, thanks. I'll give it a go. It looks like that nipple is part of the caliper but maybe it just because of the crud?
  18. Cool, thanks. How do you get the cable out from the caliper end? It seems that little nipple is captive and the metal end on the cable won't fit through it. These are brembos. Oh right, is that rule retroactive or only applicable to cars from the certain date? My Phaeton has a headlamp washer stuck out and was told at MOT on Monday that it would be a fail if the car was newer. Ta
  19. Hi All I'm currently replacing the dampers and bushes on my GT3 and it's turned into a total nightmare. Unfortunately Lotus chose to put a steel sleeve into an aluminium hub and trying to remove it has resulted in a broken hub carrier. I now need to get this off to see if it can be repaired as a friend knows an expert welder. Unfortunately Lotus also chose to run the handbrake cable through the hub carrier. That wouldn't be an issue but it seems the cable cannot be removed from the caliper without cutting it? Do I really have to disconnect the cable at the front of the car and pull it all the way out? Surely Lotus wouldn't have made a decision this monumentally absurd? Is there a way to remove it from the caliper without cutting it? Ta
  20. Ah, fair point. I missed that. I was only talking about manifold referenced. I don't see much point to rising rate unless maybe you have mahoosive injectors and are struggling with them at low load. You could reduce the fuel pressure to give you higher opening times. I would imagine a fuel pressure sensor is very much required for that though
  21. I'm not an engine builder but I think it's 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. A boost referenced regulator means the ECU is doing less work, as flow through the injectors should remain the same and it's not making any compensation calculations. There's probably an argument that it may not react quick enough Vs using pulsewidth on the Injectors to compensate but I would need to see logs to be convinced, as it's a well trodden and seemingly reliable path. The ECU doesn't know for certain how much fuel is going in unless a fuel pressure sensor is added into the mix but, that is something seperate. It really comes down to an individual's situation. If you are building from scratch then speccing the injectors to suit a non-referenced setup is fine, but if you have already spent a considerable sum on 10 injectors, it's a fraction of the price for a good regulator Vs replacing them again. As long as you end up with (ideally) sub 80% duty cycle when all is said and done though (I believe 90% is also common). Both are perfectly valid options to reach the same end goal.
  22. There should be plenty of options available. Try searching "manifold referenced", "boost referenced" or "vacuum referenced" Mine is a Sytec.
  23. A lot of what I know comes from here: I would consider this (or a similar but newer one) mandatory reading before undertaking any EFI project for the first time. It's written by the distributors of MS is the states but it covers all makes. Ah right, your pressure reg isn't boost referenced then? Would it be cheaper and easier to replace it with one that is rather than getting new injectors? Rising rate just accounts for boost/vacuum. If you have 50psi of fuel pressure pushing fuel out of the injector and 10psi of boost resisting it, your effective pressure is 40psi and your flow will reduce. Under vacuum it will increase. The boost referenced regulator adds or subtracts the same amount of pressure from the rail, so your ECU doesn't have to calculate the difference and it will allow your injectors to flow a bit more under boost. This is why you should set them when the engine is off.
  24. Yeah, I'm a broken record when it comes to running multiple ECU's X-D. I have no issue running batch fire, that's what I do on mine. If you ditch the secondaries and size the primaries accordingly, you don't need an MS3/X. The one thing I will say about the MS. Don't go into it looking to save money unless you have a tuner who will work with them at a decent rate. A lot of tuners won't touch them. I have one that does but they are very high end and charge £120 an hour (and possibly VAT on top of that.) So I likely could have saved money going with a more expensive ECU and a cheaper tuner. Pick your ECU based on your tuner, rather than the other way around.
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