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  1. The door was dropping about 1/2 at the catch, of course this is the result of only a few Millimeters of wear at the pin. Problem i've found is that the pin had siezed and was turning in the brackets so the wear and movement is in the brackets and not the bushes. I have a plan to solve this though. Once the stainless pin is installed with the new bushes and the beam fitted with a grease nipple it should last for years.
  2. Lost a whole load of text from my last post, went ot edit it and it wound'nt play Anyway, galvanising would be ideal Adrian but the trouble is i'm impatient, really want to get this job done before the holidays incase i want to use the car over Christmas and new year so paint and Waxoyl it will need to be. The steel on the beam looks about 18 guage (1.5mm) You are right about the movement at the pin, my door was dropping and could be lifted about 1/2" but there seems to be about 1mm of movement of the pin in the brackets, whatever i use to remove the play as long as it's tight and the pin is turning on the bushes and not the brackets then it should be fine.
  3. Tried messing about with a coke can shim earlier when trying the new pin in the brackets, this seems to work pretty well but being alloy, maybe making a shim from tin would be better ?, recon whatever i use as long as there is no movement and the pin is turning on the bushes and not the brackets then it will be fine. SJ could have supplied new nuts with the pin though, will need to source some. Old pin and bushes came out the beam ok with a bit of heat from a blow torch. Attacked the beam with a Twistknot brush, course it looks a lot worse now, will still repair though. Here is the hacksaw cut i had to make to the inner door shell (sorry about the out of focus pic), before i did this it felt like there was no way the front of the frame would come out, lord knows how it went in at the factory, will repair this with resin and strand mat when i get the door back together.
  4. For the stuck bonnet catch get someone to pull the release while you give the stuck side a bang with your fist. As long as the timing belt doesn't look like it's crumbling, damaged or loose. then it will be ok just to get the motor fired and change it later, wouldn't bother too much about quality oil, just bung any cheap fresh stuff in again just to get the thing running, put quality stuff in later. After 9 years you will probably find the fuel has gone off in the tank, also possibly the fuel pump siezed (this is in the boot on the left hand side), the fuel pump should work with the ignition on. I'd bypass all that anyway, get a jerry can full of fresh unleaded and set up a gravity feed to the carbs (just run a length of fuel hose down to the carbs with the can at roof height), or if the fuel pump is working feed the can to the pump but you will need to check the fuel line is'nt blocked (blow through with an air line) Great project though, keep us updated. ********* EDIT------------------ EDIT -------------------- EDIT********** For parts try SJSportscars or Lotusbits.
  5. Cheers Charlie, hope so too, if not i'll just cut the roof off and turn it into an Lotus Golf Buggy
  6. Yeah, i've heard of doors falling off completely Adrian, i can well imagine a weak beam breaking if the rot is advanced and hinge becomes stiff. There is a fair bit of wear (groves) in the threaded parts of my pin so hoping the brackets have'nt ovaled, if they have i'll need to drill it round and make up some kind of shim, Luckily my passenger door seems fine (i think), it's not sagging or stiff but i'll probably strip it anyway, going to drill out the pin tube on the beam and fit a grease nipple (something Lotus should maybe have done ?), will do the same on the passenger side. Course it should be a bit easier now i know what to expect after the drivers side. Ideally i'd like a pair of galvanised beams from Lotusbits but really once the beam is repaired, de-rusted and painted/waxoyled properly it should last a long while.
  7. Right guys, i've started a thread detailing this job in the relevant section of the forum as it may be useful to others (couldn't find a detailed report of the job on the net myself) I have the door and beam stripped off the car but it's not a pretty sight, not a job for the feint hearted (but hopefully worth it in the end)
  8. Right, there doesn't seem to be a really comprehensive report into this job on the net so i'll document it the best i can on here. Make no mistake this is a horrible job that fights with you from the start (may be easier on an Excel ?), i've been messing with cars for years but really tried my patience and half way through was left wishing that i hadn't bothered. Right, from the start the WHOLE DOOR needs to be stripped, no ways around this, and BOLTS WILL SNAP. The hinge pin goes through the door beam to form the hinge, EVERYTHING in the door is bolted to this beam, so the door catch, window frame and window regulator (electric window motor) needs to be unbolted and removed, fine in theory but in reality a ballache if it's all been together for 34 years. Like i said it's horrible. First job, the window frame needs to come out, if you dont remove the window frame the door beam cant be extracted, if the door beam cant be extracted the door hinge pin wont come out. There are six bolts holding the frame to the beam These are the bolts that snapped, not a huge deal but once the bolts snap there is no going back. This was the second bolt, dealt with these by inserting a bare hacksaw blade and cutting them off (as they would have fouled the door shell on the way out) Removed the door catch (which is bolted to the end of the door beam) Unpluged the wiring from the window motor and pulled it free from the door shell, (my car lost it's electric mirror years ago so if your car is still fitted with this that will need disconnected and pulled through) Also the window frame has two tiny screws hidden under the belt line trim at the top of the door shell (which has to be removed as well, just prises off with a flat blade screw driver), one at the A section of the frame and one at the B section, these had to be drilled out as they had rotted. Even then the frame put up a fight to come out, i had to cut through the inner door shell to free the front section (i'll post pics of later) Also found it easier to remove the frame with the drop glass in place (regulator disconnected obviously) as with the drop glass lowered the lower section of the frame was getting splayed out, was having to force the frame with fear of breaking the drop glass. Bare door shell, all thats holding it to the beam now is four ten millimeter bolts though i removed the L shape bracket completely from the front hinge, two bolts are at the rear of the shell above and bellow where the door catch was. Once these are removed the door shell can be withdrawn from the beam leaving this. Unbolted the lower hinge bracket from the shell to free the beam keeping the existing top and bottom shims in order. Predictably the beam has rot in it at the front section, i'll cut this rot out and repair it to save the beam but worth bearing in mind if you cant weld, if you are doing this job on an S1 Elite or Eclat it's pretty much guaranteed you will find the beam rotten. Annoyingly i've found it's not the pin and bushes thats worn but the pin has siezed in the bushed and the threaded part of the pin has been turning in the brackets, only hope that the brackets are not too badly worn but will need to cross that bridge when i come to it.
  9. Hi John, sorry but at 6'2" you're just too tall man. Just kidding , in answer to your question the uprisers/seat mountings in the floor are just (thick) fibreglass so i recon it would be possible to cut them off completely and replace with new fibreglass to create a flat floor then a steel strengthening plate to mount the seats to using spacers to set the seat to the ideal height. Hope this helps, no worries about the hijack
  10. Shonky ?, that looks like Rolls Royce standard compared to the console in my S1 Elite
  11. Ha, same here, right one raises off the switch left needs a helping hand/kick , besides not figured out how to do a video clip yet. Love your Youtube channel though Chris
  12. Will do guys, will probably tackle it over Christmas. Delighted when my shenanigans and mincing about is even slightly usefull to others
  13. Got my steering back together yesterday, if the weather improves i may take it for a drive later. Cleaned up rack, new mounting rubbers, new U/J fitted to intermediate shaft. Back in place, had to remove the bonnet to get to the mountings, found them impossible to line up from underneath or leaning over the wing. Pointless garage shot. Bought this new hinge pin and bush set for the sagging drivers door (which does my head in), i predict loads of fun fitting this, from what i can see the whole door will need to come off and the steel beam unbolted and withdrawn from the door (upon which i'll probably find it's rotten).
  14. Ah, i get that hissing sound too, thought it might have just been due to the carpets and sound proofing missing, i'll need to investigate it then.
  15. Looks great John, well done for persevering with it and getting it back on the road, will be a great car for someone when (if ?) you sell.
  16. My word, all that rear interior needs is a Fondue set, a Drinks cabinet and thats Abigails Party right there Pleased to see you are enjoying the Eclat Gerard, it's looking superb
  17. Manual steering, as you say my car originally had air-con, now removed, originally had power steering now manual and has been changed from auto gearbox to manual gearbox so quite a bit gone missing over the years, dont mind this so much as it's less to go wrong, though the car will never be an original spec 504. Helpfull info Dunc, i now know i probably have a Triumph rack (i assumed it was Ford), incedentally i noticed SJSportscars sell the Power steering U/J's on exchange basis but non power ones can be bought outright.
  18. Ah, cheers Adrian, will check that out and not fill it too much
  19. Pulled my steering rack out thismorning to diagnose the horrible tight/slack feeling, actually found it was a siezed lower column U/J, top one is fine, the play i thought i had in the U/J's is actually movement in the lower steering column bush (felt when gripping the intermediate shaft in the engine bay and giving it a shake), hoping the column bush will be fine once greased and chapped back in. Good news is the trunnions, ball joints, rack, rod ends etc are all fine (removing the rack gave me a chance to check all these properly). While the rack is out i'll clean it up, give it a coat of paint and fill it with gear oil, may also replace the standard rack mounting bushes with polly ones. First bolt i went to remove snapped, others came out fine, luckily this one is accessable so will drill out ok.
  20. Are you sure it's the rack and not play in the steering column U/J's ?, i have wear in the U/J's on my Elite at the moment. Generally you are allowed a bit of play in a steering box but there should be no play at all in a steering rack.
  21. Great work Charlie, certainly have a lot more patience than me with interior work
  22. Good luck with the test drive I would also recommend fitting an electronic kit to replace the points and condenser, trouble with keeping the points is parts are in such low demand these days when you buy a new set they are either of low quality or have been sat in a damp corner of a store room for years and wont last long in the car, points sets BITD when these cars were new could be expected to last 3000 miles (between services) but times have changed, the 907 dizzy is such a pain to get at too. I used an Accuspark kit in my Elite bought from E-bay for £30, has been no trouble since apart from the fuel pump issues i had. Also regarding the oil smoke from the exhaust manifold, i have the same issue (as mentioned it's common on these engines), changed the gaskets but it still leaks, but i find if the car is used regular, every day or every other day then the oil does'nt get a chance to build up on the exhaust so no smoke. I'll be fitting the better synthetic/rubber gaskets eventually but it's not a priority.
  23. That's a great price, what make are those ? My Elite is off the road for now, been using it quite a bit the last few weeks but have noticed the steering getting heavy and not self centering when turning right. Greased the Trunnions about a month ago and my car has had the power steering removed so nothing to do with that, steering is heavy when parking obviously but usually ok on the move, noticed a big difference in feel lately so investigation is needed, have a tiny bit of play in the column U/J's so will look at them first. Noticed a nice red D reg Excel in my home town , noticed it parked at the side of the road one night driving home from work, passed it driving around today, sadly i wasn't driving the Elite (would have gave him a wave) but was in my Land Rover taking stuff to the dump.
  24. Great looking colour, what is your planned engine swap ?, as mentioned wouldn't go too far down the modified route but it's your car. Personally i think the 900 series engine is a gem but i understand yours will have Stromberg carbs ?, in Europe we were lucky to get twin Dellorto's.
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