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  1. Deliberately didn't put "Resto" in the title as i dont intend to do a full resto on this car (not yet anyway), more of a running rebuild re-commission working through jobs and problems while i use it regularly for work etc (as i love driving it) Looks good in the pics but paintwork is quite rough in places and microblistered on the wings, drivers door hinge is worn o this is a job on the list. Bought off E-bay mid June for £1200, had been sat for about six months (lack of use was the reason for sale), came with no history to speak of, short MOT and no TAX, got it MOT'd at the start of July, just needed Anti-Roll bar bushes, the Exhaust re-sealed and a bit of welding to the front of the chassis, started using it but had a load of shenanigans with reliability/breaking down i'll go into further into the thread, sorted now though. As i used it i noticed the Water pump was noisy and it was getting worse (play in the bearings), so car is currently stripped waiting on a replacement from SJSportscars While waiting for the pump i took the opertunity to replace the cam belt, the one on the car looked fine but with no history better to be safe, tensioner and bearing are fine. Also couldn't resist cleaning up some of the engine bits.
  2. Looks amazing Charlie , surprised at the poor fit of the plastic gearlever bush, bought one from SJ myself, fitted easily and made a big difference.
  3. Sure i read somewhere that the bearing uses a different seal ( or comes with a seal and the Maxi bearing doesn't ) so you still need to buy one listed to fit the Lotus.
  4. Charlie the front covers are all burst, drivers cover is in a dozen bits, the passenger one isn't too bad, just burst at the stitching, you are welcome to it if it's any use.
  5. Hi Mike here's a rough pic of the mount, like i said still to be cleaned and painted etc.
  6. Hi Mike, just posted a seat p*rn thread in the interior forum
  7. So the front leather seats were in a terrible state in this car, Back seats are unbroken so just coloured and fed the leather and they came up ok. A lucky find in the scrappy scored these leather Mazda MK1 MX5 seats, i say lucky as it was my mate that spotted them, i dismissed them as i said my car is a four seater and they wont hinge forward for access but he lifted the side lever and they sprang forward , they are mint with just a slight bit of scuffing on the drivers bolster, not bad for £70 the pair. Fitting was straightforward, the rails on the MX5 seats are 13" apart, the Lotus rails 19", so i cut some 2mm steel plate to shape (alloy plate would be lighter but would need to be thicker), the MX5 seat rails are bent at the mounting holes but these were easily straightened with a big shifting spanner, bolted the MX5 seats to the mounting plate with 17mm bolts then bolted the seats and plate to the Lotus floor through the original mounting holes using 13mm bolts with big flat washers on the underside. Instalation isn't finished yet, still need to trim and tidy up the mounting plates a bit and give them a coat of paint, may leave that till i get new carpets. Got my centre console fixed too (it had been butchered to fit a CD player as seen in the top pic) and restuck my sagging headlining so the interior is looking a lot better. Only tricky thing i'll mention is that mounting them this way the MX5 seats sit a bit higher than the Lotus seats, felt a bit strange at first but i've adapted to it, i'm 5'7" but someone a bit taller may need to come up with a way to mount the seats a bit lower (maybe using L section brackets instead of flat plate ?) A cool thing i forgot to get a pic of is that i was able to use the wooden knobs on the slider levers on the MX5 seats, the Mazda seats had a plastic cover on the handle, that popped off and the wooden Lotus knob popped on.
  8. Looks stunning, best of luck with the MOT. Regarding the wheels, i used Brillo soap pads on mine, came up a treat (obviously still pitted if you look really close though), went over them with Peek metal polish but didn't notice much difference TBH. Have been using Brillo pads on old MTB frames for years, only works if the alloy isn't laquered though.
  9. Sounds like there may still be some air in the system ?, also the overflow pipe should end down past the front chassis extension by the anti roll bar, maybe you need to extend it a bit. Coolant level is halfway in my expansion tank, it's never changed since i got the car.
  10. Looks like i've cracked it , took the car into town thismorning, traffic was unusually heavy but it behaved itself, only thing i did notice when sitting at the lights for ages the engine would start to run rough and i had to coax it to life a couple of times but realised this was the fans cutting in. Can get on with other jobs now like the timing belt, rear wheel bearings, water pump, maybe the oil leak from the cam cover/cam carrier area, need to rebuild the drivers door hinge too as thats sagging. Will post some pics of my new leather Mazda MX5 seats in the interior forum too as i'm chuffed to bits with them
  11. Hi Dave, cheers for that but covered all of that, new plugs fitted as well as cap and rotor arm, plug leads tested for resistance, Accuspark kit fitted, new coil with Ballast resistor, new fuel filters, pump tank checked for blockage etc I did indeed Dunc, it was the new Facet fuel pump that was faulty, took it out, bench tested it using a battery and a fuel can, it would run ok for about 5 minutes or so then start spluttering and die, Googled "Facet fuel pump problems" and it looks like they have got a bad reputation for reliability lately, to be fair though i didn't fit an inline filter between the tank and pump so maybe it's crap from the tank that's knackered it (though the Facets built in filter should prevent this) Anyway bough a cheap unbranded electric pump off E-bay, got it fitted during the week (with a pre pump filter this time) and it seems to be working well (filter full all the time, with the Facet it was mostly empty), haven't had a chance to drive the car though, going to test the drive car in the morning so will see how it goes.
  12. Well that's good news, that overflow pipe is much the same as mine, it just hangs down the front of the rad, if it was overflowing would be easy to mistake for a leak. Personal choice but i've always thought it's not a good idea to run without filters, especially on something expensive to rebuild like the 907 engine, i have alloy trumpets inside big deep K&N's on my engine and they sound awesome while still filtering the air. Best of luck with the MOT ; )
  13. I can recommend Accuspark too, just went for the £30 kit though to fit inside the standard dizzy, very easy to install.
  14. That breather will be fine as it is, a catch tank would be a bit neater though (i've been eyeing up a cheap one on E-bay). Are you running any filters at all or just leaving the carbs open ? Your Dizzy looks funny though, dont think thats original.
  15. Yes, D.H is right Charlie, the fact that the fans run when you short out the wires means that the switch is'nt doing it's job and the rest of the fan system is ok, looks highly likely your switch is knackered old bean (providing it wasn't just a loose connection to the switch) B.T.W the breather you are refering to is the block breather, there should be a hose from that connecting to the back of the air filter box. At the moment the hose on mine is venting to fresh air as i have K&N's but going to buy a breather filter for it later or maybe an oil catch tank. Also you mention an air lock, this could actually cause the fans not to come on if the air lock is at the fan switch (the switch only works if there is hot water flowing past it) To get rid of an air lock, with the cap off, engine not running, heater controls to hot, squeeze the top and bottom rad hoses for a few minutes, should pump the air out of the expansion tank, this method has worked for me in the past.
  16. Checked last night but didn't get back on here. Fan switch is above the drivers side fan in the metal part of the top hose running along the top of the rad, you can access it through the gap at the front of the bonnet when the bonnet is open, pull the two wires off and with the ignition on join them together somehow, either a split pin or a short bit of wire, if fans come on it's the switch, if not it's then check fuses, relays, wiring, fans etc.
  17. Fan switch should be at the top of the rad (will check on my car in a wee while), short the wires out using a split pin with the ignition on, the fans/relays may just be sticky with lack of use, when i first got my car the N/S fan was a bit reluctant to come on but is now fine.
  18. Fans in my car come in at just over 90 degree's so if its going up to 120 something is not right, test them by shorting out the wires on the temp switch, if they come on switch could be faulty. Oil pressure sounds the same as mine. A bit of smoke from the breather is ok, as long as it's not chuffing. What breather are you talking about though ?, the one on the block or the one on the cam cover ?
  19. Right, got the Accuspark kit during the week, dead easy to fit, built it all back up, started, ran fine, set the timing and left it at that to test it properly today. Got it out into the drive, ran it up to temperature, then ......................... it started running rough and died At least i can get it to break down in the drive now and not stranded at the side of the road. So, whipped the tops off the carbs and the float chambers were dry (when i tested for fuel at the carbs before i whipped off the plastic jet cover, there seemed to be fuel there, also fuel when i undid the 16mm banjo bolt so have just been assuming the fuel side was fine). Pulled the outlet hose off the pump in the boot and turned the ignition on, just a trickle came out, initially thought a tank blockage so pulled off the tank to pump hose, blew through it seems to be fine, checked the tank breathers those are fine, ran a feed to the pump from a petrol can at it seems no better, pump is getting 13.5V with the engine running and is earthed straight to the battery so it's all pointing to a dodgy new fuel pump.
  20. WOW, so much to go on, cheers guys. I've ordered an Accuspark kit from E-bay so going to try that, didn't know the body of the coil had to be earthed so will try that too. Starting to think now it's not an air leak, an engine will run even with a major air leak, just wont idle, the plugs in the engine are reading fine and dont indicate a weak mixture Regarding the fuel pressure i looked up the recommended pressure for the twin Dellorto's and it was 3psi, when it has broken down there has been fuel in the float bowls so dont think it's the carbs running dry, i did read something about the fuel delivery rate being too low on the Facet Silvertop i have, a Competition Red top being recommended but the fuel delivery rate would only be a problem at sustained higher revs and doubt it would cause the engine to die completely and not re start. I was left stranded years ago with a duff condenser, was in a 68 Dodge Charger, that had a problem with the alternator overcharging though and it was frying ignition components, took a while to suss that one out.
  21. Cap and rotor arm are fine, have checked the leads with an Ohmeter those are fine (they also look new anyway), no running on, engine starts and shuts down instantly, plugs are fine, electrodes are light brown, not white or black (even though car smells like it's running rich) Carbs were reportedly rebuilt by the last owner, they certainly look clean inside and the mounting flanges look fresh.
  22. Was just a thought Dunc but realised the headight pods wouldn't stay down if it was a major Vacuum leak ?, also even with a Vacuum leak the motor would still start and run ? just not idle. Starting to think it's a duff condenser myself as i fitted the new one before i fitted the coil/ballast so new new one probably got fried if it wasn't dodgy to begin with .
  23. Just a thought, wonder if it could be a vacuum leak ?, sealed enough to run when cold but leak opens up when engine warms up ? Possible ? Heard of it before on BMW V12's (used to run one), but the opposite happens with those, rough idle when cold then the heat epands the rubber gaskets and seals when warm.
  24. Checked that already, fuel pump is new, runs fine, when it has broke down there has been fuel in the filter and carbs, inclined to think it's more ignition/electrical, i've gone over everything though. Just found the other thread on this subject, those cars had Lumeniton though, my car is still running points.
  25. Right, sorry guys, not been on here long and not had my Lotus long but i'm nearly at the end of my tether, broke down again thismorning, luckily 1/2 mile away. Car is a 1980 Elite, will start and run from cold, it will even idle fine (bit lumpy though) till fully warm and the fans cut in but will only drive 2-3 miles before it starts running rough and eventually dies so it's as if something is breaking down under load. When i got it going again a few weeks ago noticed the coil was getting very hot, car had two coils fitted (one spare) and the wiring had been messed with so was positive this was the problem, fitted new coil with new ballast resistor (bypassing the Lotus resistor wire), voltage at coil when running is 8.5V so is now running nice and cool. Convinced i'd cracked it so got on with fitting the Mazda MX5 leather seats i bought to replace the worn out originals. Took the car out for a drive today and it's exactly the same. Background = Dizzy cap, Rotor arm, Points, Condenser, Coil, Plugs are all new, tested all the plug leads using an Ohmeter, those are fine, car is fitted with a new Facet Silvertop fuel pump and Facet fuel pressure regulator set to 3 psi, ignition timing is at 10 degres BTDC, plugs look fine when pulled out not black sooty or damp etc. Had the tops off the carbs, set float heights, carbs nice and clean inside, new clean inline fuel filter fitted. Been messing with cars for years but this is getting me frustrated.
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