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dixi4uk

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Everything posted by dixi4uk

  1. I missed this thread the first time around which was quite a while back. I would be very interested to know if anyone of the Forum members who received two stickers has a spare available as I would like one to finish off the tailgate with one. Or is there a plan to produce more? If not and if I could secure just one, perhaps I could have some run off as my niece and her husband has a vinyl screen printing business. 'Pie in the sky' idea possibly, as I have no idea of costs or response from TLF members or even if my niece and hubby would take on such a small job (they have such huge contracts to fulfil). Any response whether it be positive or negative on the idea of reproducing more would be appreciated.
  2. It is a sad affair when something like this happens. When a car has survived 35+ years to be wiped out in minutes by an underbonnet fire is a wake up call to all of us who own a classic car particularly one made of fibreglass. The insurance company will pay out and the car can be replaced at some stage but it would never be the same would it? The investment of a plumbed in fire extinguisher system would not prevent some damage I am certain, but for the sum £99 for the kit available on "Fleabay" it could have saved the car. It makes one think does it not.
  3. Now here we have a solution that that I like. Having decided on retaining a black dash as per the general views expressed on this thread I had the thought how would I achieve the flow from black to ivory. For instance from the gear stick area in black meeting a centre console in ivory. Richard has the possibly the perfect solution of colouring the recess around the centre switch panel, the switch panel and the gearstick cover. Add to this the panel covering the dials and to balance cover the glove box (I am not too keen on the Fablon wood effect) with ivory leather. If it doesn't turn out well I could always revert back to black. Well done Richard and thanks for the suggestion.
  4. Now this is the advice I require. I had wondered along these lines and possibly attaching a wire or piece of string to the wheel box wiper attachment area to help replacement. However the easiest way of detatching the drive from the motor is to remove the cover on the motor and remove the crank held by a circlip. The tubing assembly then just slips out. Either way still a good idea. Many thanks for that.
  5. What I considered would be a simple job of changing a wiper wheel box is becoming a bit of a nightmare. I take the point of checking the heater fans, a good idea. At the same time I will be cleaning up the earth connections I can see.
  6. Reflection seems to be the general concensus for a light coloured dash panel. This point I take on board as it is something I had not even considered. So black it will remain. Thanks to all for your input.
  7. I am 3/4 the way through removing the dash so have not yet removed the wheel box to investigate where the wear has taken place. Strangely I still can not see it. More dismantling I presume.
  8. No build thread as yet I have been accumulating parts including a few from you. As the weather improves I will be getting into the hard work. (I have to work outdoors) Pictures! I still can not figure out how to upload them. The buttons as described in the TLF tutorial are just not there when I try. Thanks for the advice on the dash being dark. Denis also made a valid point in this respect.
  9. Someone else made this comment to me recently. Pain of a job taking out the dash and all those damn wires to label. I have a new old type Mini wheel box I hope this is the correct one!
  10. I am posting this in the hope of some collective wisdom regarding the dash colour on a 1975 Elite. The dash has had to come out to replace the wiper wheel box so the thought came to mind should I change the dash colour? and what would it look like? I have sourced various pieces of leather trim and seats from various places and in various colours. To make them all the same colour I have decided everything will be coated with VinylKote which is recommended for leather and leatherette. The colour I have chosen is Ivory a Jaguar colour which matches the front seats that I am intending to use being XJ-S Recaros. My dash is black grained plastic as standard and in very good condition. The big question is what would the effect be if I coloured this Ivory? I am having trouble visualising this. So guys what do you think? Has anyone done this before? any pictures?
  11. This is a neat modification. It is one easy to overlook. I am not at this stage as yet, changing the wheel box and drive cable is challenging me at the moment. It is difficult to believe how much has to be removed to get at it. Or am I tackling it in the wrong way?
  12. You seem to be on top of the mathematical formulae. My post to you was just pure logic. The bit regarding capacity is just safety related. For instance if someone ran all the pads down to the backings would there still be enough fluid in the system. This I would think is a total impossibility in real life but the safety factor has to be considered. I can not help regarding Evora cylinder sizes as I do not own one. May I suggest a Lotus specialist for the original spec and to answer why there are two sizes. My call would be PNM in Merseyside. The owner is Peter and very knowledgable. He is a man of few words, don't let that put you off. You will find his number on the internet. Were AP racing any help?
  13. The blind idea looks good. Something quite different, I just love the way you think outside the box. Have you considered tinting film on the glass?. I have a non tinted car that has a tinted replacement screen. I have decided to go this route with a very pale tint. This mainly because all the glass has to come out any way. The doors for instance need stripping to do the hinge pins, the rear quarter glasses are falling out of their own accord. That only leaves the tailgate insitu.
  14. A nicely presented car. Forgive my lack of knowlege but is the rear bumper off an earlier model? However, the drivers seat looks well worn and and the engine bay detailing is far from prestine. More like 6000€ to 8000€ on a good day in my mind.
  15. I doubt if you would need to change the master cylinder. However, the theory is to maintain enough fluid in the system and have a reasonable pedal pressure. Your new calipers will take much more fluid but it is only the amount of fluid required under braking that you need to contend with. I am sure there must be a mathematical formular to work this out but I do not know it. As a suck it and see I would fit the calipers with new pads and bleed the system. Make up some spacers the thickness of the pad backing plates. Remove the pads and fit the spacers pump the system until the spacers are tight. Check the fluid reserve. If you still have plenty of fluid then the capacity is fine. Refit your pads. Next check your pedal pressure if you find this acceptable then your existing master cylinder is fine. If too heavy then you need to look at a different bore size. For example if 3/4" go to 7/8" for a lighter pedal pressure or vice versa. To save a lot of convertion work on the car there are specialists who can over bore and sleeve an master cylinder. Having said all this perhaps you should contact AP Racing and ask what their advice would be.
  16. The people that are attracted and hired to do that job are not the normal type of people. They are have to be a certain type in my view. It is not a job I would ever contemplate. Authority unfortunately seems to go to their heads and inevitably makes them obnoxious. Many of us have come across these people at the airports. I make no apologies when I say I have a genuine dislike for them. I am not a villan, I am not a terrorist but why do they make me feel like one? Rant over. These are my personal views and not intended to influence others.
  17. Proffessional photographer makes all the difference. The car is looking good I like the new house, hah hah.
  18. I will certainly investigate further regarding the bobbins.
  19. After reading this firsthand experience I would suggest that 100w bulbs may not be a good idea afterall. Technology has in deed moved on with the latest type of super white standard wattage bulbs being just as bright if not brighter.
  20. I agree with Clive. A H4 convertion kit is the only answer for todays' motoring. Then only the bulb replacement is required at a later date. Fitting brighter 100W bulbs, although technically illegal, is a good move. As are the latest blue HID pretend type bulbs.
  21. An update: The original Raydot mirrors on my car have 100mm centres on the screw holes. When removed a further hole was revealed giving 75mm hole centres. By drilling a further hole it would give the required 65.5mm that the replacement mirror requires. Now this is OK for me as I am intending to respray the car anyway. Until the replacements arrive I do not know if the base of the mirrors will cover the redundant holes. As for bobbins inside the door for the mounting I think this must be a later addition as I have no evidence of this on my doors. Bearing mind my car is about 4 years older than Charlies. I would think that someone maybe, along the way, decided that mounting mirrors with two screws into just the fibreglass was insufficient.
  22. Message for Dave Hayes, Unfortunately I was heading into Manchester last Friday but was unable to contact you on the 'phone number you gave me. I have since found a perfect chassis piece that will not need repair at PNM. Thanks again Dave. If you have other bits and pieces please PM me at some point.
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