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Everything posted by dixi4uk

  1. A great idea on the carpet parts over the seat mountings. It should work perfectly. Have you considered an overlap? Each panel of carpet on the originals overlap by about 1 1/2" where two pieces meet.
  2. I haven't seen one of those boxes on my car but it was registered s a few years earlier. I have a mysterious toggle switch mounted on the door hinge support which I think is an anti theft device. Carpetwise I think the original set is made up of quite a lot of sections may be as many as 8 pieces. What I found odd was that the spacer washers for the seat were under the carpet on my car. By the way I think your headling is awesome well worth the effort.
  3. Thanks Richard I may have to resort to that. A broken one with a good facia would be good and cheap. It was a stupid mistake.
  4. You are right I can not believe how little of the interior I bought is leather the rest is leatherette. Some parts are a mixture of the two exactly as you say. However, being original is better than the 'apprentice practise' version you had in your car when you bought it! It must have cost a fotune in leather alone. This is where I am in a dilema regarding which colour changing system works successfully on both. It looks to me that VinylKote 90 is favourite at present. It is the only UK system that the manufacturer guarantees effectiveness on both, that I have found. There are USA products that claim the same but the postage would be prohibitive. Furniture Clinic just seem to claim that their product works on leather although some of their repair products will be needed at some point to repair all those holes I have. Your linseed oil vs olive oil is something I had not considered. I have a gallon can of the stuff somewhere. My father in law (sadly no longer with us) was a painter and decorator in the day and he left it here a few years ago telling me to use it for all sorts of things, most of which I have forgotten.. The link is perfect thank you. I do wonder what the white vinegar is for, a slight acid to allow penetration maybe? or is it to erradicate that awful old stinky leather smell that old cars like 50s Jaguars seem to have?. Slowhand to the rescue yet again! Well done and thanks, Adrian
  5. When I get around to it I think that your method will suffice for my inserts. From your photos I was surprised how good the inserts looked when refitted. Over the Christmas break I unwrapped my upholstery that I bought a few weeks ago from the cling film it was shipped in. The plan was always to recolour it to match the lighter leather shade of the XJS Recaro front seats I had bought separately. So I was not particularly concerned about any discoloration or slight wear marks. I had been told, and shown photos, that there was damage to the leather on the lower corner of the o/s door card and a scuff on the centre console. What I wasn't prepared for was countless puncture holes, rips and nicks in the leather to repair and a door backing panel that was so cracked and broken that it is at present quite useless until it is repaired and strengthened with fibre matting. I hope the fibreglass sticks to the plastic. I have considered using the original door card plastic backing but the leather on the replacement is so unbelievably dry and brittle I fear this will cause much more of a problem. My plan is to coat all the leather panels with an olive oil and 25% white vinegar mix and leave to soak in for a month and finish off with leather balm used to soften up the leather tack available from my local farners store. How successful this will be I will see when I come back from Spain at the end of January. The Autoglym leather conditioner hasn't done much, neither did their cleaner. Very expensive products that do not seem to be strong enough for my project. Good old Fairy Liquid and a nail brush worked much better for the cleaning and I am hoping the olive oil and vinegar mix will soften the leather. I have to very quickly add that I am not complaining about my purchase in any way as the price I paid for the interior was very fair. It is just so much extra work I was not expecting. On a more positive note at least the interior is for an Elite and will fit straight in. Eventually. Onward and upward. Happy New Year
  6. Had a disaster with the fuel gauge. When I reassembled the dash pod I was not entirely happy with the look of the fuel gauge. It looked grubby behind the glass compared to the others. So out it came and I took it apart again. Someone had suggested that light cleaning with a cotton bud dipped in a mild detergent mix was what they used. Fairy liquid must be strong I used hardly any in the mix (washing up strength). To my horror the mix removed the 'Smiths' and 'Fuel' printing! Now it looks no good at all. Anyone got a spare gauge available working or not? I only need the facia to repair. I thought I would try here on the forum. Someone may have one with a cracked glass, rusty case or something. Apparently they were sourced from a Triumph GT6 the only Triumph with orange pointers. Any help please PM me. Many thanks, Adrian
  7. I agree with others that you have not got it completely wrong. It just needs tweaking. Perhaps fit the original inserts whilst thinking of a solution. In my opinion the wood looks fantastic but is it too wide? the chrome strip is maybe too chunky. The bottom half may look better in black as Mike suggests. It all is a matter of "in the eye of the beholder". I see from your photos on Photobucket that your original insert backings are suffering from warpage from damp or something exactly the same as mine. I havent decided how to tackle this yet, probably replacing the ply backing and the split rivets is the only answer. I did consider wetting the ply backings and placing under a weight to dry out but discounted this idea. Keep it up you are doing a great job.
  8. The differential on this car was swopped out a while ago. It is likely that the washer was left out when reassembling.
  9. I really must agree with Charlie on this and thanks for sharing. Unfortunately as needs must I have two hinge pin kits to do eventually, one worn, one seized. Not looking forward to it.
  10. I think you will find that you will need a pair of stop and tail bulbs of the same design as the second picture. It is interesting what you found regarding the bulb design being too short as per the first picture. I have had these delivered too seem a waste of money from what you have found. The second picture seem to be a much better design. I will have to order some for the indicators and reversing lamps. Did you have any results regarding the replacement ignition light bulb (501) with Led? You had thoughts that changing from regular to Led was causing charging probs.
  11. I am blown away with your thinking outside of the box. I was pondering only the other day of where to secure a chrome strip of the type you are using. I have thoughts of adding a strip of matching carpet to the lower part of the door card to cover some damage. Thanks for sharing
  12. Good. The door cards it is then. Are they in poor condition? The smaller panels have brass split rivets holding them on, reuseable if you are careful.
  13. Exactly the way to go. Tackle something else and whilst doing so contemplate the rear seating and side panel problem. I have been giving this some thought myself overnight. The difficulty arises from the fact that the construction of the Elite rear seating and side panels is entirely different from the Eclat. I was lucky in finding an original leather interior for the Elite to replace the original corded fabric type. What surpised me was the actual amount of leather used or lack of it. Large amounts of the area covered is leatherette! For instance the rear side panels are leatherette, the built in seat arm rest is leatherette whilst the sitting area is leather. The centre panel is leather and so is the centre console. Now my idea, owing to the fact that you have sewing skills and a sewing machine, would be to use the original Elite side panels which are leatherette anyway. Use the Elite seat frame taking off the covering held on with hundreds of hog rings and split the rear seat cover down the seam after the arm rest. Graft on the Eclat leather seat area. and replace the cover any colour rectification can be done using Vinylkote later. The manufactureres state that Vinylkote does leather as well as plastic. In theory I think it would work but as I do not have an Eclat seat to hand so I do not know if the sizes match up. Maybe this could be an avenue to explore of using the Eclat seats as a donor not replacement. Hog ring pliers (Sealy) are cheap from Driveleisure at £7.50 and the hog rings vary in price. The best deal I found was 250 @ £6.50 or 1000 for £15.00 from handtools_uk both on fleabay postage included. I had to invest in both pliers and hog rings as the seat frames needed welding in a couple of places. Best of luck.
  14. The dip should be quite marked, possibly an inch drop on the pedal. The pedal feel without vacuum should be hard with no creep. Bleed the brakes yourself if you have any sponginess and then you know it has been done for definite. Start at the furthest away from the cylinder etc. A power bleeder may be required for stubborn sponginess, which is trapped air in the system.
  15. Well I hope we do not have snow over Christmas as you are so keen on walking......... Keen going back into the garage on a dark cold winters night. I used to do daft things like that in my younger days. I hope all goes back together well and there is not too much distortion with all that seam welding. Part three soon?.
  16. Oh dear sorehand again. It looked as if you had cracked it once the foam was on there. Now you have gone so far don't give up. Step back from it, a good nights sleep, go out for Sunday lunch or what ever. Then when you least expect it the Eureka moment will dawn. You will see the solution and realise where you went wrong. I hope to see a good result soon.
  17. Back to your servo / master cylinder problem. I do believe that a Saab 900 master cylinder fits the later Elite/Eclat servo. To test the servo try this. With the engine not running pump the pedal repeatedly until the vacuum system is evacuated then hold the pressure on the pedal and start the engine. The pedal should dip slightly if working correctly. This is a standard part of the MOT test.
  18. Ideally two plug adapters for the Colourtune are required to balance twin Dellortos to be able to compare the fuel burn colour for each pair of cylinders at the same time. They have been around for about 45 years and largely not needed since the advent of computer controlled fuel injection on most cars.
  19. That is a good idea regarding the cloths to gain the right colour. I would never have thought of that. There is a place down the coast from me, I will check them out. It is one of the last things to do but one has to plan ahead. I really like the headlining you have gone for it looks classy and would be prefect with a dark leather like black or grey. But with ivory I am unsure, in fact I don't think it goes.
  20. Point taken. I have reservations on my intended colours. The car is Carnival Red. The Ivory leather seats and trim is 100% fixed in my mind. Retaining the XJS red piping on the front seats I am 50 /50 (undecided) I need some input here. Carpets in Anthracite (almost black) for practicality is 80% firm. On the plus side there is currently a really good offer on Fleabay of offcuts from the Land Rover factory. The dash and the A post covers remain black. That leaves me with the biggest decision of the headling, cant rails etc. Ideally ivory to match the trim is the answer but so far I have not found the right supplier of the right colour at a sensible price. Any input would help.
  21. I now have a complete interior for my Elite all together in one place at last. The interior I have gathered together is comprised of two XJS Recaro pre '89 front seats in ivory leather with dark red piping in mint condition. The rest of the interior is an Elite original leather in very fair condition needing a lot of cleaning and feeding as the leather is very dry, hard and brittle. I am not complaining as the price paid to a Forum member for the interior was very good and I am very pleased with it. I just wanted to paint the picture so any reader can visualise what I have. There are a few bits of damage to restore but all easy to rectify I think!. I have made a decision that owing to the original Elite interior needing a fair bit of restoration I want to change the colour from the original, a caramel/beige, to ivory to match the front seats. I think overall this will look stunning when finished off with Land Rover Anthacite (almost black) carpet and a grey headling (Like Charlie Croakers). Any opinions on this or I am I having too many colours? At this point I have a dilema. I am very surprised how much of the original 'leather' is in fact leatherette! For instance both integral arm rests of the rear seats, the side panels and front kick panels are not leather. I fear that the leatherette will not accept the leather dye kit supplied by Furniture Clinic. Any views on this? Alternatively I have come across Vinylkote which says specifically it will do both plastic and leather colour changing when applied with a spray gun. Anyone ever used Vinylkote? It sounds too good to be true. I am thinking that I could use Furniture Clinic for the repair/restoration products and finish with the Vinylkote to achieve a lasting finish. So I would appreciate any input and experiences of colour changing leather and leatherette mixtures. Looking forward to your views. Adrian
  22. I know that this is an old thread but the question I would like to ask is: Where is the precise location of the vacuum advance pipe connection on the inlet manifold?
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