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fenton

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About fenton

  • Rank
    LOT
  • Birthday 06/10/1965

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  • Name
    shane fenton
  • Car
    esprit s3

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  1. http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u193/fenton_photos/2007_0708combe0009 Thats what i used to do it
  2. I,ve also used a timing light that has a tachometer on it as part of the process as i could never get it right with a colour tune. connect to the plug lead with the clamp on the timing light and adjust the mixture on that venturi until you find maximum rpm, back it off an 1/8 th move on to the next one. Then go back to the plug lead pulling off to see if they all have the same effect in rpm loss again and finally two leads at a time to see if one bank causes the enine to stall. Takes time but you start to get a feel for it, part of the joy of esprit ownership.
  3. I,ve got a Morgan Carb tune excellent bit of kit for setting the vacuum I also use a method explained to me by a guy who used to repair lotus cars. Set the float heights. set the miture screws to the base setting in the manual (three out i think, but check ) Start engine and carefully pull the Ht leads off one at a time. The Ht lead that has the greatest effect on the RPM is the cylinder working hardest so lean that one off a quater. Check again, and adjust so the engine RPM drops by the same amount for each HT lead as you remove it. Once there all the same, then pull off the HT leads, front two first and back then back two. Whichever pair stalls the engine. lean them both off a quater and check again until they both have the same effect. BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  4. Just a thought as i was reading this, on my sons fourstroke race bikes we have modified the actuator arm on the accelorator pump so it is in constant contact with the throttle linkage. I cant remember how it works on the car set up, to be able to perform a similar mod. Basically with the bikes if you snap open the throttle the spring on the actuator arm is not quick enough to keep up with the throttle, so we just use an o ring to mechanically hold them together, resulting in increased throttle response and reduced lag.
  5. These S/S studs, nuts and locking tabs are a class act, check them out in the restoration section. " s3 restoration starting soon " its some of the last posts. Not cheap, but you any get what you pay for. I must crack on with this car, i,ve been on Hillys low traction incline for too long, I MISS YOU GUYS
  6. if you have a look at some of my last posts in the restoration forum. " S3 RESTORATION STARTING SOON " you can see some picks of my manifold wrapped up with the Thermatec insulation. I,ll use the rest to wrap the centre section when it goes back in. Does worry me slightly that more peaple havn,t done this, the silencer will probably melt or something.
  7. I poly bushed the front end on my S3. Purchased from SJ, and all fairly easy to fit, cost about
  8. Not sure about an S1 but the S3 uses a toggle clip. SJ sell them.
  9. fenton

    choke

    I've never used the choke to start a lotus, indeed i thought it was guaranteed not to start if you did. Ignition on, wait til it fills the float bowls and the pump stops ticking. Three pumps on the throttle. Then fire. Let it warm up for a couple of minutes and away you go.
  10. Ok. Black with some JPS logo's it will be. I havnt had much time recently, but i had a couple of hours this afternoon, so i decided to wrap up the exhaust manifold with some Thermetec Copper Generation 2. The exhaust gaskets overlapped into the ports by as much as 3mm in some places, something i found undesirable as i don,t want that exhaust flow interupted. I used a die grinder to remove the excess material and burnt my fingers a few times in the process. its all bolted up now but i havn't bent the lock tabs over until i check it all line up with the ok
  11. Hilly had a couple of fans on the engine compartment sides one sucking one blowing before she turned into the mutant. they were 4" computer fans.
  12. The respray i think i can handle, i,ve done a few in the past. Its just the limitations of doing it at home that concerns me a little. I have all the kit , big compressor with 400ltrs of air etc, breathing aparatus and a big extraction unit , but the garage isn,t long enough to spray it with the door shut which is going to mean i have to rig up some sort of a tent out of some nice new dust free tarpaulins. The colour of the car is causing me a dilema, due to the fact its metallic and i have never sprayed a car with metallic paint, smaller items such as bike tanks and helmets have been ok, but a car in a garage at home may cause me problems. For those who havn,t had a go before, you ideally need to spray everything in one go and all on the car if possible as metallic paint can take on different shades according to the way it has been applied, a bootlid and bonnet sprayed on friday may look subtly different than a bodyshell done on saturday. If i do it, lets say black, i can do bits seperately with better success and i don,t need to laquer it either. GRP is better painted with the least amount of paint as possible, i'd prefer to use full gloss paint and flat and polish afterwards. This is my dilema, i like the original colour and s3 n/a is unusual finished in it, but its going to be harder to do and it may not end up perfect. If i do it black, which i love. It will be easier to paint and easier to get the finish i,m after. The jps cars are a childhood dream and i already have some ideas for a jps themed car with some nice gold graphics.
  13. I'm sort of doing jobs all over the place on the car at the moment, usually cash driven, I can't afford to buy all the suspension parts at the moment so i,ve been doing other things. A little sanding here a bit of tinkering there, but nonetheless all jobs that need doing. I removed all the cappings at the weekend , boy were they held on with silicone sealer, it took two hours to tease them off. I had to eat my words and go back to JAE to order the stainless manifold studs and nuts i wanted along with the rubber cam cover gaskets and s/s locking tabs for the studs and nuts. I had had a bad experience with these guys in the past when they didn,t process an order.' but this time they were excellent. The quality of the product was superb as you,ll see in the photo, i'd recommend these studs if you're fitting a new manifold, which we have all already done or we're going to in the future if its not a s/s replacement already.
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