soldave

Looks very good in Absolute Lotus too, and a nice little backstory on it. You find that a lot of these older Lotus have interesting histories to them.

Oh gawd... my back hasn't forgiven me for being in that position a year ago. On a side note, I was in that position under the dash of my Evo about 8 years ago doing some soldering back there. Dropped the soldering iron in the middle of it. Fortunately the carpeting was saved by the iron dropping onto my forearm and sticking there melting into my skin. That burn took a while to heal!

Wasn't sure if this should go in here or in the engine section, but let's try here as it relates to the interior! Invariably when I pull the choke knob out and turn it to lock it in place, it will come off whatever stopped it's on and pop back in. I'll end up having to pull the choke out two or three times and then carefully turn the knob so it stays in place. Once it's there then it won't jump back in unless I turn the knob and push it back in manually. Before I start taking things apart and inevitably have the car off the road for months(!), does anyone know what would be causing t

Not seen something for every single bolt - the best resource I've found are the parts lists on rdent.com

Fun to see at the start how quickly the headlights should go up and down!

That is looking pretty damn awesome. Kudos to you for having the skills to get it done.

True, that. What pipe did you go for in the end? And did you replace the fuel lock valve at the same time or use the existing one?

I think I'm following. So a length of copper pipe that would feed through the chassis (and through the required holes). Then attach one end to the new hose and pull through. I spotted from a previous post you used an endoscope to check that you'd gone through all the chassis holes. Sounds a delightful task!

If replacing, whats the best way to get it through all of the holes in the chassis that the original line feeds through?

Had the radius arm off the mounting but still a bit of a mystery to me. The snubber washer doesn't appear to be sitting off the flats (and therefore not as far "in" as it should be, mount is behind reinforcing plate as it should be etc. Took a couple of shocking quality photos but nothing is jumping out to my untrained eye

Isn't the mount (6) going inside the subframe plate (3) normally (see pic below) or am I misunderstanding? Putting it on the outside of the reinforcing plate would give me more toe out. Take the back end apart before and nothing seemed untoward.

How thoroughly predictable! The passenger side doesn't have any spacers between the radius arm and snubber washer on the mount. So unless I'm mistaking, there's no more toe in I can get unless other radius arm mountings have a thinner rubber/poly mount. If that's the case, it's going to have to be something I live with for a while. Whilst the mountings are probably due for a refresh as most of the older rubber bushings are, I'm not even sure they would be any thinner and fix my problem.

Thank you, I didn't know that. There's only minimal movement, so maybe I am good there. Which is good on the one hand but bad which means if there is a wheel bearing droning somewhere it may be a rear one!

Will definitely consider it. Just checked the front wheels and there's a bit of 12 and 6 play on both sides (driver's side a bit more); will see if I can nip them up just a little and without the wheel starting to drag. Would be a very quick fix if it was but I don't think I'm that lucky!

Well I actually just had a quick lie down on the garage floor and a feel of the radius arm. The driver's side doesn't seem to have many washers between the radius arm and the mounting snubber washer - maybe 5mm worth. Even stranger, the passenger side radius arm seems to be flat against the snubber washer with no spacers inbetween. That would mean that there's no more toe in I can get on that side. Hopefully that's not the case; if so I might leave them as is so at least both sides have about the same amount of toe. Will report back on Saturday.