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soldave

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Everything posted by soldave

  1. I kid a little. Probably wouldn't be my tyre of choice for flinging a sports car round mountain roads, but as a tyre on an Eclat it's a decent enough choice. The problem is just that: there isn't much choice.
  2. Late to the party on this one, but that's a great looking car, both inside and out.
  3. Great stuff. Thanks for posting this👍 Are you planning on like for like rewire or considering using any more modem technologies?
  4. @madmax if you get a kit and know how to rebuild then I'm based near Wakefield and have a press you're more than welcome to use. We can take some photos and do a bit of a "how to" to help others who want to do the rebuild in the future.
  5. Do you mind giving a ballpark price on what you paid for the reupholstering of the seats? Would be interested to see how prices compare Stateside compared to here in the UK.
  6. Good to hear you're back working on it. Fire me a message if you ever need a hand turning a spanner on it
  7. Not sure about the trunnions, but I'll agree on those front springs. Taking them off is one of the most terrifying moments I've had working on a car! I ran out of the garage with it like it was a bomb!
  8. Are these the kind of clips you mean (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pandoras-Upholstery-Pirelli-Clips-20/dp/B00LPEOA6U)? Just trying to work out how the clips would attach to the bottom of the seat frame.
  9. Probably a simple question for someone, but does anyone know why there isn't a model variant number on the B-pillar?
  10. Awesome. Love reading builds like this and seeing the rewards coming from all the blood, sweat, tears, and pounds.
  11. Good point. Maybe I shouldn't be surprised then! Throw in a bit of a drain on the battery through less than smooth bearings on fan, bad earths etc and it all adds up.
  12. Question for you all: are the heaters in these things particular drains on the battery? Have been driving recently with the heater on and have noticed that when it's on power 1 my voltmeter drops right onto the 13V mark; on power 2 it drops a little below that. All of my other accessories can be on and make almost no difference to the voltage. First thought was the alternator not giving me enough voltage but it was rebuilt probably 12-18 months ago so shouldn't be that I hope. It could very well be taking all the power of the car to turn the fan as it does seem to squeak and rattle a little when I initially turn the heating on!
  13. Thank you. It's certainly a fun drive, and you just have to be patient with things and realise that a small job may turn into a big one with a 40-year old car. You start taking a few bits off and you find more and more that need replacing. Tools and skills help too! But it's a great feeling - had a one-hour round trip today to visit my mother (support bubble), and the number of people who were smiling, pointing, looking as the car went past is certainly something to be proud of :)
  14. Looks very good in Absolute Lotus too, and a nice little backstory on it. You find that a lot of these older Lotus have interesting histories to them.
  15. Oh gawd... my back hasn't forgiven me for being in that position a year ago. On a side note, I was in that position under the dash of my Evo about 8 years ago doing some soldering back there. Dropped the soldering iron in the middle of it. Fortunately the carpeting was saved by the iron dropping onto my forearm and sticking there melting into my skin. That burn took a while to heal!
  16. Wasn't sure if this should go in here or in the engine section, but let's try here as it relates to the interior! Invariably when I pull the choke knob out and turn it to lock it in place, it will come off whatever stopped it's on and pop back in. I'll end up having to pull the choke out two or three times and then carefully turn the knob so it stays in place. Once it's there then it won't jump back in unless I turn the knob and push it back in manually. Before I start taking things apart and inevitably have the car off the road for months(!), does anyone know what would be causing this and how to solve it please?
  17. Not seen something for every single bolt - the best resource I've found are the parts lists on rdent.com
  18. Fun to see at the start how quickly the headlights should go up and down!
  19. That is looking pretty damn awesome. Kudos to you for having the skills to get it done.
  20. True, that. What pipe did you go for in the end? And did you replace the fuel lock valve at the same time or use the existing one?
  21. I think I'm following. So a length of copper pipe that would feed through the chassis (and through the required holes). Then attach one end to the new hose and pull through. I spotted from a previous post you used an endoscope to check that you'd gone through all the chassis holes. Sounds a delightful task!
  22. If replacing, whats the best way to get it through all of the holes in the chassis that the original line feeds through?
  23. Had the radius arm off the mounting but still a bit of a mystery to me. The snubber washer doesn't appear to be sitting off the flats (and therefore not as far "in" as it should be, mount is behind reinforcing plate as it should be etc. Took a couple of shocking quality photos but nothing is jumping out to my untrained eye
  24. Isn't the mount (6) going inside the subframe plate (3) normally (see pic below) or am I misunderstanding? Putting it on the outside of the reinforcing plate would give me more toe out. Take the back end apart before and nothing seemed untoward.
  25. How thoroughly predictable! The passenger side doesn't have any spacers between the radius arm and snubber washer on the mount. So unless I'm mistaking, there's no more toe in I can get unless other radius arm mountings have a thinner rubber/poly mount. If that's the case, it's going to have to be something I live with for a while. Whilst the mountings are probably due for a refresh as most of the older rubber bushings are, I'm not even sure they would be any thinner and fix my problem.
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