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soldave

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Everything posted by soldave

  1. My Eclat is the same in some areas. I've heard dark brown suede dye is the thing for this and I've had some success when I've bought small pots of it in the past. You need a fair amount though to do it all. Good luck!
  2. The Eclat continues to hurt my simple brain. New wheel bearing, new hub carrier, new inner and outer UJs fitted and all torqued up to spec. Initial drive is short and I might be able to hear a noise on rotation, but then again I may just be imagining it. Get home and jack the car back up to make sure everything is still tight and there's 12 o'clock movement when I push the wheel in towards the diff. Rotate the wheel 90 degrees and there's no movement anywhere, rotate another 90 degrees and it's back. put a jack under the hub carrier to simulate drive height - no movement ("obviously", some might say) Checked everything is torqued, including going as far as the inner driveshafts to driveshaft assembly, and all good. I really don't want to believe another wheel bearing has failed on me :if it has the car may have to stay on jackstands for a while as I've just been throwing money at it recently and my wife will start to ask questions about why we're only eating rice and drinking water each day!
  3. This has probably been asked elsewhere, but are those seats original? Whatever they are, they look lovely as does the rest of the car!
  4. Brilliant build and progress. Huge kudos to you for the attention to detail and taking the time and effort to make everything just right
  5. I looked at that paint can and thought it might have been citrus white and not cirrus! Really good to see you making progress
  6. Looks like mystery may be solved. That clanging coming from the diff area... outer UJ had gone. Three ends looked good, the other had no grease in. Am assuming linked to the bearing failure. Took all circlips off the UJs but ended up just replacing the outer UJ and replacing the clips on the inner one. To tell the truth, I'm so nervous now about whether the circlips are in the UJs securely. It all looks good but it did with the wheel bearing and I just don't trust myself! Might have to do some very gentle drives then come back and check them to build up my confidence. Or I just take the shaft to my local garage and ask them to sense check it for me.
  7. Will do Am also wondering about the outboard driveshaft part that goes through the bearing and hub and whether that took some less noticeable damage. If that's warped a little or something it could be causing the movement both at the hub carrier and maybe backwards putting force on the inner driveshaft and causing that very slight movement in drum. This is all speculation right now but the UJs and outer driveshaft are probably next to replace.
  8. Thanks. The Eclat is undriveable with the noise it's making so I need to diagnose it and fix it. Right now I refuse to believe the second replacement bearing I got was dead on arrival but will check the torque on the hubnut to make sure its at 200ft-lbs. What bothers me is that even when the wheel bearing went last time and i was limping the car back home, there wasn't this noise. It seems to have developed either just as I got home or afterwards. I've had the inboard driveshaft out again today to recheck that and it looks fine. Looks like I hadn't done a great job on seating the o-ring last time so I've put a new o-ring in place. Rotating the inboard driveshaft 180 degrees doesn't see to have moved the "point of clanging", which gives me hope it isn't something in the diff. But I'm also losing confidence it's the UJs too. I do have a pair of new ones though so might just get the driveshaft out and replace them so i can cross it off my list of possible issues. The only other tiny thing I noted is that as the brake drum rotates with the driveshaft connected, it moves probably a mm or 2 vertically when it gets to that clanging point. My suspicion is that's just an effect of whatever else is wrong rather than it being a brake drum related problem causing this, but thought it worth just dropping into the conversation.
  9. Right, I might have a small lead on this. Baby was sleeping so I dashed to the garage again! Driveshaft bolts loosened individually and still sound there so not the bolts causing collision. Took drum off and inner driveshaft rotates with no sound. So then I got a little creative by my standards and connected driveshaft to inner driveshaft without brake drum. Tightened bolts so they were snug but nottorwued or anything and slowly rotated. Take a look at that random video below for the results. You see that little bit of movement, that's on the forward and back rotation where it makes the noise. Something is causing some in/out movement when it reaches that point in the rotation. Nowhere else. The question now is what that "something" is.
  10. Yeah it does sound like more of a clang the more I heard it than a knock. What's throwing me is that when there's no load on that corner there's no sound at all. Add the load and you get the clang. Once per rotation but a different point when going clockwise and anti-clockwise. And you have to give it a good old spin to get a noise. Really strange but I'll get driveshaft off and brake drum and see if anything is obvious.
  11. New rear wheel bearing on and test drive this morn. Got about half a mile down the road before I noticed a knocking on rotation from paasenger rear end (aka new bearing area) Got the car back and jacked it up. No noise on rotation. Got creative and jacked the hub carrier up too to add some load, giving you the sound you can hear on the video below. Happens rotating forward and back, once per rotation at different points. My thinking is when the wheel bearing died and trashed the hub carrier, one or both UJs were damaged too. Seem a fair diagnosis from that sound? The UJs seemed fine when reinstalling but of course no load. Should say I can't feel any notchiness as it turns or stiffness as it gets to the part where it makes noise. Faster rotation = louder noise.
  12. Right, well once one of the brake drums was off it was clear this wasn't going to need Sherlock Holmes to figure out the problem. Yes, I should have absolutely noticed that right away. Not sure whether to blame it on the lack of sleep and focus on new baby, the lack of confidence causing me to miss even more things than usual, or just complete ineptitude! So yeah... the handbrake was adjusted waaay out of kilter. Loosened up the nuts on the adjustment rod going through the tensioner and bingo. Clearance minimised, no brake drag on either side, and once I pick up the new hub carrier I'll be able to get the car back together. I know a lot of my issues seem to be quite simple, but hopefully down the line it will help someone else and show that people aren't alone when they make simple mistakes
  13. The putting together of the rear end of the Eclat is going slowly but surely, but I've come across a bit of a sticking point, quite literally. Got new brake shoes as one of mine was getting to the limit and the other was right at the limit. Everything was apart so I thought I may as well. Pistons all retracted and adjusters as far into the wheel cylinder as possible and on go the shoes. And then the drums, Except the drums are a tough fit over the shoes, especially on the passenger side. Both went on in the end but not without a lot of persuasion. Right now only the driver's side is back together but there's a LOT of drag in the brakes (i.e. with the wheel on it's not easy to rotate the wheel). I'm guessing the passenger side will be similar.As expected, rotating the wheel backwards allows some more rotation but there's still a lot of friction there. I did have the car running in gear with no wheels attached. Of course because of the open diff there was only one wheel moving, but I have seen both sides moving when in gear. Afterwards there was a bit of heat in the drums; nothing too excessive, but it was only in 1st & second gear for a couple of minutes. Handbrake has around 3-4 clicks of movement and then becomes tight. Now that's tighter than it's ever been, but there is that bit of pull in the handbrake before it gets tight. And previously, although the handbrake wasn't great (cable and tensioner are new), it did tighten the rear brakes so it does work. I guess the question I have now is whether the handbrake is under tension even at rest. Will try to check it tonight, but does anyone else have any other thoughts? I knew that new shoes would be closer to the drum, but not this close. I'm half tempted once it's together to drive on it for a few miles and see if the first bit of the shoe material wears down, but not sure if that's a good idea of a reckless one.
  14. Oh lawd!!! What is the actual colour on that? Whatever it is, it looks gorgeous.
  15. And so the wheel bearing saga trundles along to its conclusion, with an ending ranking up there with the final season of Game of Thrones for disappointment! Got the hub off the wrecked hub carrier this evening and managed to take things apart enough to see what's happened. So it looks to my uneducated eyes that the circlip may not have been 100% seated in the groove when things were put back together. Which... well you can see the end result and the cost to get a replacement carrier, bearing etc. Pretty humbling... I wish my skills matched my enthusiasm for trying to do this stuff. I know these things happen but most of my issues seem to be of my own doing. The silver lining to the cloud is that I found an issue with the inboard driveshaft which has now been sorted, found the brake shoes on one side were right at their limit so they've been replaced, and that I probably needed new rear spring insulators. And also, it looks like the outboard driveshaft hasn't been damaged other from colliding with the hub carrier, which took the brunt of the damage Onwards and upwards I guess...
  16. Thanks dude - might come on a quick trip to Nottingham to use that tool once I've got new parts back together, if that would be alright with you. Just need to get the hubnut off with everything off the car. Got a socket to fit and impact wrench, but only one pair of hands and no clamp. May need to get creative or make a friend to hold the hub in place!
  17. Errrr, guys... I might have found what was causing the wheel to feel like it was dragging a bit. Took the hub carrier off and this was the sight that greeted me Now what in the name of destroyed hub carriers has caused that to do that? All I'm thinking is that when I took the driveshaft to the garage to get pressed into the hub and bearing, they pressed it too much somehow. Everything spun freely before it went on the car but maybe when the hub nut was torqued up to spec (200ft-lbs) it pulled the inner part of the bearing through or something. All I know is that corner is pretty much kaput. New hub carrier, likely a new outboard driveshaft (might be lucky and the hub carrier only took the damage), potentially a new hub depending on what has actually caused this, plus of course the new rear bearing itself). UJs actually seem in fine condition, with no excess play and a full range of smooth movement as you would expect.
  18. I think I explained myself wrong - there is no movement of the driveshaft in and out of the bearing. Was just thinking about something wrong. But... we may have a lead in working out what the hell is going on here. Spent about an hour this evening fitting and refitting the driveshaft, measuring with the feeler gauge (the nip might be closer to 0.1mm to be honest so on the lower side but still well within spec. And then I looked at the setup again. towards the bottom you see the channel that someone has added as there has been an oil seep from that seal? Nothing new about that - have seen a few pictures of it on here. But reaching around the back of the backplate, I think the right-hand rivet in the picture actually causes interference with the diff housing, causing the backplate not to sit perfectly flat against it. I need to confirm it all tomorrow but that might be enough to give me that bit of in and out movement. trying not to get ahead of myself but am trying to think now how I would file down the rivet to stop any interference when I have very little room to work pulling backplate out and away from the diff. The manual seems to suggest backplate off is a diff out thing so I want to avoid that. Quickest way would be trying to get a sanding wheel on a dremel or something in there, but given it is right next to the diff it would need cleaning of any oil (wouldn't want to burn the garage down with me and the Lotus in it!), and would need to protect diff entrance from any bits of metal. I might check tomorrow and realise I'm completely mistaken, but it certainly looked as though there could be some interference, causing the backplate to stand ever so slightly off the diff towards the bottom of it.
  19. Yeah I have. The push switches come out fairly easily; the sides of the switch have a bit of raised plastic that keeps them in position. If you get your nails on the top and bottom of the switch and wiggle/pull, they should come out. The light controls are a little more complex and the heater controls require the console panel taking out to get at them; same with the radio I think.
  20. Do you mean the switches in the centre console? Switched up (as in top half of switch is in) is off; switched down is on.
  21. Yeah, o-ring is off the car and I had already noted it needs replacing. When checking the nip and with retaining plate pushed hard against the backplate, I tried the inboard driveshaft and there was still that movement. The only thing I can think is that perhaps the collar is right up against the bearing and the inner race of the bearing is tight around the driveshaft, but possibly a mm or so away from where it should be sat. That's all i can think that would explain it, but if that's the case it must have been like that for a couple of years (possible, and I've just not noticed it. Thanks for the continued advice and thoughts - it must seem a lot like the "let's help Dave try to understand mechanics" thread!
  22. Right - the garage temperature finally dropped below a million degrees so I've been measuring some nip. Looks to be 0.15mm or thereabouts which is right in spec. So doesn't look to be the source of any issues.
  23. Will take some measurements mid-week and report back
  24. Thanks, guys. for the thoughts about the nip and maybe shimming it. So theoretically I may be able to shim the retaining plate out enough so that i cancels out the in/out movement of the shaft itself. That's encouraging. I'll report back on Wednesday when battle resumes between myself and the Eclat. If I attempt to work on it tonight or tomorrow I'm just going to be found collapsed in a pool of sweat and diff oil in the garage! I'll get the hub carrier off too whilst I'm there as I really want to give that bearing and UJs a once-over.
  25. Yeah, just been out to check. All four bolts on the bearing retaining plate are torqued to spec. But I did manage to get a bit of luck and after loosening the retaining bolts the inboard drive shaft slid right out. Now there is no obvious movement in the bearing, and the collar appears to be right up against it. All I can think of is that perhaps the bearing and collar could be a couple of mm further down the driveshaft towards the retaining plate (i.e. outside). I can't see an obvious gap but it's all I can think of. Interestingly, I looked back at my notes and this thread, and it seems like I have had issues in this area before. Back in 2016 I had similar play in on the driver's side output shaft (https://www.youtube.com/shorts/o61-B47tuMQ), and then in 2019 I had grinding on the passenger side (i.e. this side) bearing and so replaced it, collar etc. If so I might have had this movement for a while and only just noticed. Which goes back to me wondering if this has any connection at all with the wheel stickiness and heat issue. And people wonder why I sound stressed!
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