soldave

Right - a little more testing today. First off - took the battery to Halfords to check the condition of the battery; good news is that they said it's in perfect condition. Battery should have a CCA of 380, actual value 380. I also checked the electrolyte in the battery and (I think) it seemed all as it should be - pics are below. So we can scratch off a problem with the battery as the main issue. I also did another bit of testing voltages from cold (after the battery had been on the conditioner all yesterday afternoon and overnight). Started the car with and cold with no accessories the voltage across the battery started at around 13.7V, and then continued to increase to around 15.1V where it stayed constant. Put on fan, heater, lights, hazards and tested again and it had gone down to a stable voltage of 12.5V (revving did increase it). Voltmeter readings inside the car were 13.5 and 11V respectively, so it looks like that gauge is reading around 1.5V less than it should be, although that's not really the main issue here. I can understand the requests to check for a bad earth (especially when it comes to the rear lights, and I probably agree with that diagnosis, as the front lights are hardly dimming), but would a bad earth be causing that high a voltage across the battery with no accessories on?

Those voltages were when the engine was running. With all accessories on, revving the engine did raise the voltage to a peak of around 14.95v. Alternator belt doesn't seem to have excessive play in it. Lights at the front shown. Doesn't seem to be dimming there (or it's very faint) which would probably suggest an earthing issue on the rear lights.

Out for a drive today with the heating and wipers on, and noticed the voltmeter in the car dropping under 13v. Not done that for a while so it got my attention; I turned them both off to test and it crept back up. Got back home and pulled out the multimeter to do some very basic testing across the battery (I know not the most effective, but humour me). Did some measurements of the voltage; first with everything off, and then with the fan, heater set on full, lights and hazard lights on. With all the accessories turned off, voltage was 15.3v at the battery and showing a couple of needlewidths above 13V on the guage in the car. With accessories on, the multimeter was showing 13.2v but the guage in the car was in the red, just above 11v. I also looked at the rear lights. With accessories on there was quite a noticeable dimming of the rear lights when the hazard lights came on; with accessories off there was still a little dimming but not as pronounced. Does it sound like the alternator's on its way out? I did replace the Lucas one with an eBay special about 2 1/2 years ago, but it's done fine until now.

Good writeup and pics showing the state of play with the engine. Do you have a timeline for it getting rebuilt or is it just a case of when it all gets done?

Here's some Brexit driving information which I'm sure will change in the next couple of months. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/prepare-to-drive-in-the-eu-after-brexit

Top work, that man! I'm asking around my friends for someone to be a co-driver/navigator and who can turn a wrench. If I can find one then I'll pay a deposit. Will let you know if I do If I come along I'll make sure I have the Esprit factory manual downloaded on my tablet as well as the Eclat! Not that I'm expecting trouble, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Thanks for the thoughts. To be fair, my Evo in Japan was upgraded and tuned up to a shade under 600bhp and was held together with rust, zipties and Duck Tape (note, not duct tape. See below!). The waterless coolant is an interesting idea (think I first saw it on Wheeler Dealers back in the day), although I've not spoken to many people who've done it themselves. Sounds like you're enjoying it though, @rjwooll. Looks to be around £120+ for 8l of coolant and prep fluid.

I posted this in my project thread but thought I'd make it a new thread on here to gauge some wider thoughts. So, in August my Lotus Eclat turns 40 years old, and I'm trying to think what to do to celebrate the occasion that's not just a drive into the Pennines or the Peak District and a change of oil! Something like the James Bond Swiss Run (https://www.fireballrally.co.uk/james-bond-challenge-2019/) came up in my Facebook feed, and I'd love to do something like that, but 1,800 miles in 4 days (providing the Eclat made it to the south coast of England!). The car's made it to Hethel and back with the gearstick only coming off in my hand once but this would be a completely different proposition. I'd have European breakdown cover of course, but is this idea complete madness? Also, if I did consider it, what spares would I want to take in addition to as many tools as I can get in the boot?

That does sound very cool! Still thinking about that James Bond rally idea though. Might throw a post up on the general forum and see if anyone has any recommendations on what to take in terms of spare parts (other than "everything"!) and how to survive a trip that long. All credit to you heading out to Hungary though - that's a hefty chunk of miles.

Well, on August 20th my Lotus Eclat turns 40 years old, and I'm trying to think what to do to celebrate the occasion that's not just a drive into the Pennines and a change of oil! Would love to do something like the James Bond Swiss Run (see link below), and can't decide whether that would be an absolutely awesome idea or a completely ridiculous one. 1,800 miles in 4 days is a hell of a lot of driving for an older car, and that's providing I make it to Calais in the first place! Would be something really different though and very memorable if the car (and myself) could make it! https://www.fireballrally.co.uk/james-bond-challenge-2019/

Took the car for a quick drive today with the heater set to cold air. Got back and felt both inlet and outlet pipes going to that valve and both were warm/hot. So it would look like the valve's not closing correctly. Not a high priority issue, but I'll get some more coolant and get that valve off at some point to inspect and (if necessary) replace.

Thanks. Yeah, I might try getting some more coolant and taking it off and seeing if I can check what condition it's like inside. Interestingly, it looks like it might be a GM part (https://www.danchuk.com/images/Downloads/Instruction Sheets/013.pdf)

Thanks John. Have had a look at that and got the engine up to running temperature this morning - couldn't drive due to being blocked in with visitors! I took a movie and the valve seems to be operating from what I can see (see YouTube link below). If something is blocked in there it's from the inside as it seems to be moving from what I can see. I did try both hot and cold air settings and there is a difference there. When it's set to hot the air coming out of the vents is midway between warm and hot. When it's set to cold the air is... lukewarm. Not as warm as before but there is a bit of warmth in it. Wondering if it's not springing back all the way inside when set to cold air. I also found out that the vacuum setup is responsible for directing the flow of air (either at screen, through main vents or to feet).

And after doing a little research, of course my valve is the much more expensive one! https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/A075P6060F.htm

Just trying to do some logical thinking, and if that switch is operating in the outside, and diverts hot air into the heating system, then it must be jammed open inside, right? Still unclear though what the passenger side vacuum system is associated with though 🤔

Allow me to correct myself: I looked under the dash today and found that my Eclat actually has the cable-operated valve and not the vacuum operated dole valve (see the awful picture below - I apologise in advance for that one!). I can also confirm that the mechanism of the valve I have does seem to move when you move the cable. Can't answer your second point about the Delanair vs Lotus system as I don't know the differences. Sorry

Everything in the engine bay has been removed, but I suspect that that valve is still in play behind the centre console. Someone on FB has recommended I open up the vacuum line from the engine to the passenger side vacuum tank and see if that makes any difference. Wasn't able to warm the car up this morning but I did pull the line 24 hours after the engine had started and there was still a fair bit of air in there. Which kind of put a spanner into my thinking that there was an air leak in that vacuum tank area.

Christmas present for the Eclat, courtesy of the "Gokoku-ji" shrine in Naha, Okinawa, which I visited whilst I was back in Japan last month. I got a few charms including this one, meant to keep you safe whilst on the roads (and hopefully protect the car from 70s British automotive electrics!).

It does make sense, thank you Started the car up for the first time in over six weeks today just to get the engine running before taking it out for a pre-dawn drive in the morning. Started up fine and once I'd got the clutch unstuck it was moving forward and reverse again. Only thing I noticed was a little wetness in the upper centre area of the exhaust manifold. Now as some of you may remember, I had all sorts of exhaust issues, including trying to get the manifold gasket to seal at the back end of summer, but after fixing it I've done around 400 miles, so it was a little strange to see it again. Have tightened the cam cover bolt ever so slightly and will see if that resolves on tomorrow's shakedown drive.

Might try and take a look at one of the minor issues my Eclat's had since I bought it. Should firstly state that the car has a/c, although everything in the engine bay has been removed. Not sure if that has any relevance to this, but wanted to add it for full disclosure. My issue is that I can't get the HVAC to blow any cool air at all, even ambient cool. Moving the temperature lever to cold has absolutely no effect at all to the temperature and the only way to cool the car is to open the window! Not such a huge issue in British climes, but if I can get something working better then I'll try to do it. I've read the factory manual and seen the rat's nest of vacuum lines that are involved in this system. And I do suspect the passenger side vacuum tank, or inbound/outbound hoses into there leak. When I bought the car the vacuum system was set up in a bit of a strange way and meant the headlamps were relying on vacuum from both driver and passenger side vacuum tanks. When I isolated the tanks and made the headlamps only rely on the driver's side, they stayed down after turning the engine off, as intended. Is there anywhere specific I should start, or is it just a case of following the system back from the non-return valve before the vacuum tank, and testing everything until I find the leak?

I took my drum off and think I'd found one of my issues. The ratchet adjustment wasn't actually unscrewing properly and making any difference at all to the shoe position. Fixed that and it seems to be better now although need to go on a drive and check whether the handbrake actually holds. Hopefully this pic will help

So that's what they should look like!

Well I finally got the car back together just about after the handbrake ordeal (and what an absolute pain of a job that is!!). But then I woke up in the middle of the night thinking about the Eclat and its handbrake (because that's what I do!), and I want to get some thoughts from you out there. I posted this up on the Elite/Eclat group on Facebook but wanted to post it here so it's stored in my project and hits another audience. So I set up and adjusted the driver's side drum and adjuster looks like the first photo when the handbrake is released. There's just a little resistance rotating the wheel by hand, which I think is caused by the shoe touching the drum. But if I take the clevis pin out the adjuster doesn't move back towards the drum by itself. If I push the adjuster back towards the drum then I can get it to appear as shown in the second pic. So I guess the question is, do I need to go back and re-adjust the handbrake so that with the clevis pin in, I can push the adjuster all the way to the drum (second pic)? Or am I thinking/worrying about it too much?

Going to try and get the handbrake system all back together this weekend, with plenty of new parts hopefully helping to get it working right. Currently my way of working is in the pit in my garage, which gives me decent access under the centreline of the car. When it comes to adjusting the brakes though, I'm thinking it would be easier for testing if the rear wheels could spln freely, and that presents me with a dilemma. If the car stays rooted on the ground, then it's going to be difficult to tell when the brakes are engaging properly (especially the passenger one, set second). If I jack under the diff (my usual spot) then I lose decent access to the handbrake compensator area which I need to do the adjusting. And I can't even see how taking the wheels off might help. Are there any other points I could jack the rear end up by, which would keep me access to the rear diff area? Thanks, but I think I might have sorted it out. Will know for sure over Christmas when it hopefully all goes back together,

Great to hear that you'e back in work and have been doing work/research on the car