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Everything posted by soldave

  1. First I'd try pulling the valve off the master cylinder and try sucking through both ends of it. I believe it should only allow air to pass through it one way. Simple thing to set you off diagnosing the issue.
  2. Looking at replacing the current outer seal on one of the rear hubs. The current oil seal has the following marking: 25016837.R4. Now I know the R4 signifies that it's a metal case seal, and the number before that is obviously the type. But looking at the part from SJ Sports Cars it looks like it a straight rubber oil seal (like this one: My question is, will the seal I've listed work? Or should I be looking specifically at the R4 metal case type, or one from SJ?
  3. Getting there little by little. Looked at the wheel bearings again today and it looks like it was just the outer oil seal which the spring inner had come a bit unstuck on - the bearing actually seems in good condition. The current oil seal has the following marking: 25016837.R4. Now I know the R4 signifies that it's a metal case seal, and the number before that is obviously the type. But looking at the part from SJ Sports Cars it looks like it a straight rubber oil seal (like this one: My question is, will the seal I've listed work, or should I be looking specifically at the R4 metal case type, or one from SJ?
  4. Due to a huge amount of help from a good friend today, I got the u-joints changed and had a good look at the one that had seized. Surprisingly, the pins were all in there and intact, but had absolutely no grease in that cap. The other caps in that u-joint and all of the others looked well greased, but have been replaced by Spicer ones. All media blasted and cleaned up and they all look pretty good now. Did see one of the wheel bearings looking like it'd had better days, so am going to order a pair of new rears tomorrow. Also waiting for my new shocks to arrive and then things can be put back together. Then if I have time I'd like to get the trailing arms shot blasted and then painted, but have a big classic car weekend on August 1-2, so time's at a bit of a premium now. Can't wait to get the car back on the road and see how she feels with all this work done on the rear end.
  5. Not sure if this has been posted up before, but it brought a smile to my face
  6. I'm a big fan of the P21S wax. Used after Klasse All-in-One polish it comes out real nice
  7. Got the Stillson tool courtesy of Dunc (many thanks!) and got the driver's side arm off (wasn't on really tight). Second one doesn't want to separate from the mounting though. Will either get a big pry bar tomorrow, or might just take the mounting off the chassis and bring it all off connected. That could be easier and I'll replace it when it all goes back together.
  8. Gaz GS6-2127. We'll see how they go, but I think it's going to be a big improvement over my current setup
  9. If he gets the electronic distributor, wouldn't he need a coil to go with it? Or will the standard coil work?
  10. Springs from SJ. Shocks ordered from Larkspeed and will hopefully arrive in the next week.
  11. Some of you have probably seen my trials and tribulations with the rear suspension in the technical forums, and know that I'm buying new shocks, springs and lower link bushes. Have gone for Gaz shocks which should hopefully be here in a few days. Got the springs today though and was a little surprised at how different they look to the one that was on there.
  12. That's some crazy tilt-shift going on - very cool. Looks like a toy car!
  13. Still wondering whether I should replace these lower link bushes (the Yorkshireman in me says, "Don't spend money!"; the car guy in me says "Replace with poly - racing spec ;)". Can anyone spot them looking in reasonable (or not) condition?
  14. Thanks Michael. Might go for the poly ones
  15. While the back end of my Eclat is apart, I thought I might look into replacing the bushes in the lower links. They don't look bad per se, but I know from previous cars how new bushes can tighten things up. The question is that age old one though: rubber or polyurethane? In the past I've always gone for aftermaket poly where available but for no special reason. Now I've heard the rubber ones in the lower links are a pig to install which is reason enough for me to go poly(!) but was wondering if anyone had noticed any difference when moving from one to the other.
  16. 1 inch socket - check. Thanks No immediate rush on the stillson though as I've got to wait for all my parts to come in now. Just hit me up if you manage to find the key. I've got to go counting my pennies. While I'm replacing everything I'm also going to take a look at the lower link bushes, although they seem in decent condition at first glance.
  17. Was worried you might say that about the shocks. You're right though - they don't look in good condition at all. Just have to see whether Gaz, Spax, or the ones from SJ are the ones to go for. When you check that tool tonight, could you please check the size of that nut on the radius arm stud (I'm thinking it's about 28mm). That would be mighty kind of you though, and I'd make sure it was returned as soon as I'm done with it So the shopping list increases to: 4 x replacement universal joints ( - I'm gonna take a chance on the Spicer non-greasable ones 2 x replacement lower shock bolts ( 1 x hub carrier to radius arm stud (part number B075D0265F) 2 x replacement rear springs 2 x replacement shocks (Gaz/Spax/SJ brand) 1 x spring compressor So much for a simple replacement universal joint!
  18. Done a little more inspecting and I definitely need a new set of rear springs. As Dunc spotted, the driver's spring was fouling the shock on the front side, and as you can see below, the passenger side spring is doing the same. As for freeing things and taking them off my car, it's round one to me and round two to the Lotus. Driver's side came off without too many dramas (with the exception of the bolt from shock to hub carrier, but I'll leave that for the garage), but the passenger side is offering a lot more resistance. Can't get the shock->hub carrier bolt free (although it will spin with an impact gun on it), nor the stud that goes through the hub carrier and then radius arm. So right now it looks like I'm going to have to take off the shock, as well as radius arm so I've got the whole thing off the car to take to the garage to press out. Not ideal but not the end of the world. My only slight concern with taking the radius arm off is the factory manual stating that a 51mm open ended spanner is required for this (3rd pic, below). Can someone confirm this is the case, and if so what the spanner is supposed to be holding in place, as I've definitely not got one that size hanging around.
  19. Spotter's badge for that man. Will take a look at the shock and make sure it's ok. Did you go for stock replacement springs?
  20. Big rubber mallet and some brute forcing and managed to get the hub carrier off the car. Couldn't separate the driveshaft from the hub carrier so will leave that for the garage to do. Both joints looked like they'd seen better days to be honest. I'd love to be able to replace the rear shocks too, but don't really have the finances for that right now. Just have to wait for the joints to come in from the States, and get the other side suspension off so I have everything I need for my buddy's garage to do their bit in a week or 2
  21. Pre-empting the answer, I've been looking at 2 hub pullers: My only worry with them (other than them breaking) would be wheel nuts might be put under a lot of pressure if the drive shafts aren't keen on coming out.
  22. 34mm fitted and with 450Nm of torque on the impact gun, the hub nut didn't stand a chance! So next question: should the drive shaft just knock out now with some force (i.e. heavy rubber mallet or similar) or a hub puller? I put a hammer to it with a block of wood inbetween but it wasn't budging so might need something more substantial. Or do I have to pull the bearing carrier at the same time? If I do then I might change bearings at the same time, and I'm assuming that these have to be pressed in place, or can they go in by hand? Apologies for the endless questions!
  23. Bought a 34mm from Halfords so let's see where that gets me tonight. If too big I'll take it back and get the 32 instead.
  24. Thanks for that Dan. Dunc said he thought they could be different sizes (I guess they made do with whatever was in the parts bin that day!). Not ordered anything yet but going to get an impact gun from Machine Mart tomorrow so will decide on my socket at that time.
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