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Everything posted by soldave

  1. I might very well be interested in one of those for my Eclat
  2. Looks good. Sorry if I'm behind the times here but are your planning to do all the interior in that style (i.e. racing style) or just the centre console. Can't wait to see this in your car.
  3. May very well be interested in door pulls. Let me take a shot of mine in the next day or two so you can confirm they are the same.
  4. You can also get the Nexxen CP461. It's a H spec but if you're going above those speeds then you're braver than me! Link:
  5. If you're thinking that 5-6 hours is more risky than 3, then you might be taking a chance as it sounds like you've got a lot of driving to do once you hit Europe anyway. Either way, good luck with it all and post lots of pictures/video. We'll be here to offer help en route if you need it. Got me excited about my own little European adventure this year
  6. Thanks for your experiences on this. Yeah, my fear about trying to brute force them is rounding the ends with a hammer. Might try some Plus Gas followed by double-nutting.
  7. 24psi for tyres is a good starting point. Some will even go to 23psi. You don't have to take the whole suspension off if the studs will come out. Just jack up, remove the nuts holding the studs in place and then work out a way to get them moving.
  8. Hey Dan. I still have to do 3 of the studs fully. I think the biggest problem you might come across is the same one I've got: that being the stud gets seized in the diff carrier or hub carrier. Get some good penetrating oil ready!
  9. Standard pitch M8? Damn... my (obviously wrong) research had given me a 5/16" UNF nut. I know a 1/2" wrench was working to undo the nuts. If not I'll grab some M8s. Rev drop and ch-ch-ch gone so once that last nut is in there I'm good to go. Now Lotusbits told me that you can't get hold of servo rebuild kits any more, which goes slightly against the research I'd done (especially the research that told me the servo is from a Mk2 Ford Escort). If they're right though, is there any point in keeping it?
  10. Thanks for the thoughts. I'll see what I can do with a long socket and ratchet this coming weekend. Got a couple of other jobs and once I start something I usually break more things so they take a lot longer than I imagine! Need to get some Copaslip too for use on... well, most bolts I take out!
  11. Thanks for that. Mine's in pretty good nick but a bit of extra bling is always nice
  12. Got it on my birthday list and should be getting it in a couple of weeks
  13. I spent 10 years in Japan and am much more of a turbo guy. RB26 swap and a big T88 turbo (or 4G63 and Holset HX-40 turbo, as was my preference) in there will raise some eyebrows Looking great, by the way You mentioned early in the thread you knew quite a few cleaning tricks. Fancy sharing any of them? You've got the interior, and especially the steering wheel, popping.
  14. The area looked pretty clean although I will confirm that over the next week or so. In other news, brakes now work at full power, with new servo installed :-). Won't double post so my solution is in the Esprit technical forum. All I need now is a servo nut - one of the nuts securing it to the pedal box fell into a black hole somewhere. Anyone know the nut and thread size? If not I'll take it with me to a garage or 2 and try to find out.
  15. What an absolute pain in the rear end that was. Those 4 nuts in the pedal box holding the servo in are an absolute nightmare to remove. Was upside down in my footwell all morning trying to release them. And one typically fell behind the carpet somewhere and was eaten by the car. :-( Got the new servo fitted, and apart from the split pin that holds the pedal-to-servo pin in place (last I heard of it was it springing off somewhere) and that nut, it's all gone together ok. Went for a very quick drive and was nearly thrown through the windscreen! Yes, the brakes do work now. Very well. Does anyone know off-hand what size and thread pitch nut fits the servo? Got 3 on and tight but need another before I want to do much driving. The split pin I can replace easily enough.
  16. Noticed something this evening I'll have to keep an eye on. Spark plug one had a little oil pooled around it. Only a bit so I'm not worried about that per se. But then I noticed when I started the car straight away I could see it bubbling. Fitted new Champion plugs recently so will pull that one out and make sure it's seated correctly. Will post a pic once my phone's got enough power to upload today's photos. EDIT: Here we are...
  17. Think that dim light bulb over my head has finally switched on. Not sure how you've done it but I think I follow now. Many thanks Will get on it in the morning.
  18. Twin Dellorto DHLA 45, and I'm pretty sure they were rebuilt fairly recently. Car has been run fairly regularly in the past. Will try putting my mixture screws back to where they were and see how that goes.
  19. Also, am sure I'm being really dumb with this, but if I'm using the mixture screws to get the same airflow through all the carbs (and likely the strongest vacuum), then when I adjust the mixture screws to get the right fuel mixture according to the Colortune, won't it always knock things out of sync?
  20. Thought about making a new thread but will just update this one. Used the Colortune across all cylinders and found that all of them needed richening up a bit (in fact, in cylinder 2 you could only see the spark from the plug and no combustion). Mixture screws were unscrewed by the following amounts: Cylinder 1: 2 full turns Cylinder 2: 3.5 full turns Cylinder 3: 2 full turns Cylinder 4: 2.75 turns So things were richened up until the flame was blue with the odd yellow fleck. It's running fine now when the engine is warm but when the choke is pulled on cold starts, the engine starts and idles at around 800rpm but the idle slowly drops and becomes rougher. If left to idle on its own, the revs will drop and eventually die. Would richening the mixture have caused this, maybe causing it to be too rich now when the choke is pulled? If so, how would I remedy it without just increasing the idle (which would also raise the idle above where I want it when the engine's warm)?
  21. Good stuff One thing I do have to go back and look at I think is my mixture screws on the carbs. With the Gunson Colortune I richened things up a bit until I got a blue flame with a couple of yellow flecks. I found cylinder 2 wasn't showing any combustion at all initially (only the plug spark). But I think since then when I start the car cold it will idle, but will idle low and if left long enough with the choke in it will sometimes drop below 500rpm and then die. Once the engine's warm and choke is released, it idles fine. So I'll check the choke and be sure my mixture screws are all adjusted right.
  22. Thanks for the guides on what to use. Guess I can leave things for a while until they need changing then. Not having to spend money is always good!
  23. Roger that. I'm guessing the bolts are built into the seats, and will need drilling/cutting out and replacing completely? Might wait one extra weekend and wait until the wife's car comes before doing that - just gives me that transport should anything go wrong. Oil might have been changed recently, but I'll probably do a change myself and change the filter, so I know when exactly it's been done. Will do the gearbox too and see how the oil in that's looking.
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