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soldave

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Everything posted by soldave

  1. Going back a couple of pages to those nicely polished air trumpets of yours... what did you do about the spring that would usually go from the airbox to the throttle on the carbs (to pull it back to position when you let off the gas)? Have you got it fitted to something else or gone without?
  2. Much appreciated. Will probably go for this replacement servo and see how I get along with it.
  3. Slight update today. As I was playing in the engine bay I had a good listen around and did find the same ticking coming from the tube that goes to the brake booster. Pinched the hose and the sound went away. Pulled the hose off the non-return valve and the sound became louder (from the hose) and the revs dropped a little. Put the hose back on the valve and tried blowing & sucking through the other end. Valve won't allow me to blow and can't suck anything through it, although probably because it was still connected to the brake servo. Can anyone confirm the check valve can just be removed and replaced from the servo without having to take it apart (is it just a pull out/push in replacement)? Have seen a replacement 2nd hand. Would need a hell of a clean up, but should solve the problem.
  4. Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I'll try calling that place once they're back after Christmas.
  5. Interesting you say that. My experience with other (admittedly more modern) cars is that repeatedly pumping the brake when idling will cause the idle to drop. What I've noticed now I've fixed the fuel mixture on the Eclat is that pressing and holding the brake down will drop the idle speed noticeably (100-150rpm at least).
  6. I can get to the current fitting and hose - it's at the top of the servo in the Eclat. Any way I could confirm it's this and not something inside the servo itself?
  7. What's involved in replacing it; is it a take-apart-the-servo job? Am coming up with nothing so far in sourcing the valve either
  8. Got one side lower link off and stud out today (didn't manage to get it back in for a couple of reasons, but it'll be done in the morning). Have greased up both studs and so hopefully that will help; will do the other side too over Christmas and if not I'll move to the radius arm forward mounting point. I did find something interesting though. On the driver's side, the stud going through the diff mounting doesn't have the front of the two big washers (I believe they're called "rear diff mounting snubber washers"). While the service manual does say "Use only the same amount of washers between lower Iink and the differential mounting boss as was removed", I kind of get the feeling there should be one in there. I had a look and on the passenger side there are the 2 snubber washers in place.
  9. Thinking a bit more, is there any way of confirming it's the valve rather than the servo? And I'm guessing the brake servo will need to be taken apart to replace the non-return valve, or can the grommet and valve be fitted with the servo in situ?
  10. If it was that valve, wouldn't it be audible from the engine bay, sticking my ear close to the servo? That valve does have some movement in it in the servo, so it's not out of the realms of possibility. Where would I source a replacement valve from?
  11. Not looking at replacing the master cylinder just yet - focus is on the servo right now. After sorting the fuel mixture somewhat yesterday, I've found today that now when I'm idling and I press the brakes, the rpm will drop. And that's not when I'm stamping repeatedly on the brakes; it's when I step on the brakes and hold it there. I'm far from an expert, but that combined with the noise coming from the push rod side of the servo when I brake is pointing towards that. Nothing from Lotusbits on finding a later servo but have been told to call back when they open tomorrow morning and they'll look.
  12. Yeah, switched the IGNITION bulb back to a normal one and alternator was charging as soon as the engine fired up. Problem solved
  13. OK, bit of a report for people thinking of different bulbs. First oned that have arrived were for the front indicators and I ordered the ones below. Fitted them tonight and I've found that they don't protrude far enough to shine against the reflector (these ones are 34mm long). So while the LEDs are brighter than the standard bulb, the normal bulbs look brighter when all fitted up. I'm guessing that's the case with the brake lights (which I believe are the same bulb) but will confirm But luckily I did order these ones too which are another 16mm longer so hopefully they'll be brighter.
  14. Changed back to a standard bulb and alternator kicks in as soon as the engine starts. Problem solved. Crisis averted
  15. Slow and steady... that's how I do my card work. Especially when I've got the winter break ahead to get things done. Would like to get those lower link studs out and will try, but if they're stuck I'll leave them until early January when I'll get my daily runaround car. Can't afford to be without a car at the moment with other things going on in my life as it might be needed at short notice. Today I managed to play around with my new Colortune, and have done quite a bit of tweaking. Warmed the car up and got it hooked up to spark plug 1. Fired it up and saw a nice blue flame, so I decided I'd see hoe many turns it would take to get it to the yellow flame signifying it's getting rich. Have read elsewhere that the 907 engine likes to run ever so slightly rich so wanted to get it blue with just the odd yellow flicker. Then when you dab the throttle you get a strong yellow flame, and if you hold the rpms a little higher than idle then the flame goes to a strong blue flame. Found I had to unscrew (richen) the mixture screws by the following amounts to get what I wanted: Cylinder 1: 2 turns Cylinder 2: 3.5 turns Cylinder 3: 2 turns Cylinder 4: 2 and a quarter turns Strange thing with cylinder 2 was that initially I was seeing a spark but no flame at all. Even unplugged the spark plug wire from the Colortune and it made no difference to the engine sound. Wonder if I was getting little combustion at idle from there. When I revved it I was getting a visible flame but when it went back to idle it was just a spark and no flame. Hence the mixture screw had to be turned out quite a bit to get a flame going. Once I'd adjusted each cylinder I had to bring the idle down as it had gone up from about 900rpm up to 1100-1200rpm. Got it all set up and went for a drive. Might just be me wanting it to feel better but I think it definitely had more pull when I put my foot down. All I wonder is if the balance might be slightly out now. Carbtune is on the shopping list but I don't think Santa is that kind to me this year. You can see a little video of the Colortune inside cylinder 1 at work below Managed to take some pics today on my travels too, and played around with some filters. Car needs a big clean tomorrow but I think the colliery provided a nice industrial background to the shots.
  16. Yeah, as I said earlier I did that today. Didn't really pump up so am wondering if it needs bleeding again. And didn't dip when I started the car as far as I could tell.
  17. It's the latest design, don't you know. It will show you how rich or lean the flame is inside your cylinder. Here's a vid showing you how it will (hopefully) work:
  18. Got front bulbs changed to some (hopefully) brighter ones, and also done a bit more testing on the brake servo. First off, the brakes don't seem to "pump up" much at all even with the engine off. I know the brakes were bled just before I bought it, I'm wondering if they need another bleed. But when I fired up the engine there certainly wasn't any movement of the pedal down. Got talking to Lotusbits this afternoon about getting one and was told he was unsure whether they had any later Eclat brake servos in (will check over the weekend), but that they had some '74-76 Eclat servos in. The earlier one would fit in a similar way but the master cylinder would be about 1" closer (or further away - I forget) to the firewall, meaning the brake lines would have to be flexed a little. The early ones are £40 and the later ones £80. Think with the history of my car I'd rather go for the correct model, but it all depends on what is available. I also received an early Christmas present too. As I've got a bit of an old school tool, I thought I'd go similar with my tools. Who needs a wideband for tuning when you have a Gunson's Colortune 500! Will be checking my fuelling at idle with it over the next day or two. Still have to go over the suspension as well and grease those lower link studs.
  19. Just going back a few points, it was said the creaking could be the diff mounting stud. Am I right in thinking that's number 33 in this diagram? Looking at SJS, it looks like the hub carrier stud is part number B075D0265F and the diff mounting stud is E075R0080Z.
  20. Thanks for the thoughts. Was asking as SJS are wanting £220 for a reconditioned one.
  21. As an additional question, what's the brake servo off? Is it a Ford Escort Mk2?
  22. Now first of all, I know I've got an Eclat but I believe they share the same brake servos as the Esprit (or at least use the same rebuild kit according to http://www.mevspares.co.uk/BRAKE-SERVO-KIT-Lotus-Eclat-Elite-Esprit-and-Excel.html). When I'm driving slowly or stood and I put my foot on the brakes, I hear a "ch-ch-ch" noise in time with the engine ticking over. It doesn't seem happen when I'm at speed and from what I've read online it suggests the brake servo. I've checked the hose going from brake servo to engine and that's in perfect condition. Braking seems ok for a 35 year old car although I'm not sure it feels like it's servo assisted (need to check that though with the pedal down and engine off compared to on). Have put my foot in the driver's footwell and the sound is definitely coming from the servo. Listened from outside but even with my head stuck in the engine bay can't hear a thing. I've seen these rebuild kits as above and a few people have mentioned that there's a seal between the pushrod and the servo itself which could be gone. Does this problem sound familiar with you, and if so do you think a rebuild kit like this could possibly fix it? Thanks for any thoughts anyone can offer on this one.
  23. Marvellous. Will have to see over the winter break if I can tease these studs out (and I don't have the chance to use that phrase so often!).
  24. Good point. Will check it when the engine's not running over the next couple of days too.
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