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soldave

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Everything posted by soldave

  1. Already ordered a replacement set. Let me see if I can get the order cancelled; I should know in the morning and will let you know.
  2. Aaaarrrrggghhhh!!! Thanks for that. Should be saving the money for maintenance anyway
  3. Thanks for that. I'm removing myself from blame though as I acquired those with the car Will get new standard ones ordered and will try to sell the 520 ones. How are the EBC Greenstuff or other performance pads compared to stock on the Eclats?
  4. Might have to give them a call. I do like the look of that.
  5. While the car's awaiting ignition parts to fit and check, I decided to change pads and discs today. And was partially successful. Got everything off ok, although the pads didn't want to come out of the calipers. Looked at the discs and they definitely needed replacing. Good job I had a new set of pads and discs with the car. But then I pulled the pads out and found them quite a bit smaller than the ones that are in there. Checked the box for the pads and sure enough, it says they are for a Lotus Eclat. I've done a bit of reading around and the only thing I can think of is that my 1979 Eclat was fitted with brakes from the 2.2 '80-onwards Eclat. Places seem to show 2 different sizes of pads (98x68x16mm and 78x66x15mm) and it looks like I have the former. What it means is that I'm going to have to order a new set of pads and hopefully find someone who wants to take these off my hands. Very strange. Also found out that I suck at greasing trunions. Took the nipple out and put a small syringe in there which resulted in oil going everywhere. I tried with a bigger oil gun and met with similar failure. Will try again next week when I'm fitting the pads.
  6. Interesting. And that will also mean that when I'm setting timing with the air box off in the next week or two the car will be running quite lean and not as well as it should. Let us know how you get on with the K&Ns. I'm sure they'll help the engine breathe better, but my concern would be that it would be drawing mainly hot air into the engine, resulting in a decrease in power. And there are not many places from where to duct the air up into the carb area.
  7. Roger that and thanks. I'll replace points (trying to remember to gap them in the process) while I'm in the distributor changing the condenser. Have read something about greasing the distributor. Is it just the central shaft I have to put a dab of grease or somewhere else too? I hate not knowing simple things about these (older) cars so am really appreciating all this advice.
  8. Thanks for that, and for confirming engine should be warm
  9. Seems like a simple question and probably is! The manual states the following: 7 BTDC @ idle (vacuum) 25 BTDC @ 3500-4000rpm I'm not using the vacuum advance so should I still aim for 7 BTDC, or should I just try to tune for 25 degrees at 3500-4000rpm? But then on this site (http://www.belchamber.org/techdist.html) it states: When timing the car rev it to 4500 and set the timing at that rpm to 44 deg So which one is the best to go for, for when my timing light comes in?
  10. Dunc, that could be awesome. I've got a few spare parts though so let me switch them and see if the problem goes away. If it does then I'm golden, if it comes back I might get you to do that as it would help with diagnosis. Really appreciate that offer
  11. I haven't and I've actually got a brand new condenser that I could swap out (as well as points). Now assume I'm a dumb person who doesn't know much at all about distributors (it's not hard to imagine!). If I set the engine to top dead centre and then remove the distributor to see what I'm doing, would I have to reset the ignition timing when I put it back in? If so then I might have to try and replace the condenser with the distributor in place.
  12. Thanks Mike. Spanners I'm not too bad with (once I have a full toolkit). Electrics... I despise!
  13. You just need something subtle, to fit in with the lines of the car. Something like this, maybe?
  14. I should have a bit more confidence in myself! I was thinking to get a soldering iron and solder the connection back on. Might even be able to do it in situ. Cleaned up the distributor cap just now. A couple of the points were really dull, as was the rotor, so have cleaned them up a bit. Still nothing that would jump out to me as causing the problem I had though.
  15. Interesting. Why would the rev limiter cause the tach to report higher readings than I'm doing? Not saying it's not that, but just wanting to learn the why's as well.
  16. Looking at that coil again, I think the only way that clamp is coming off is if I get a dremel and cut the head off the bolts. Alternative would be to get a 1/4" socket set with a universal joint and see if I can get a socket into the actual clamping nut and do it that way.
  17. Well the first stage of trying to find the problem has got me absolutely nowhere. Got the airbox off to give me a little room to see things. First, I can't get the coil off right now to inspect it (or replace if needs be). It looks like the captive nuts that the coil bolts clamp into are rusted and now spinning (you can see the photos below). There's hardly any room to move so I'm not sure what I'm going to do with that. Possibly get a set of very thin vice grips and see if I can grab onto something so I can back the bolts out. Looked down to the starter solenoid and checked the connectors to that. Surprisingly, one of them just came away in my hand (as you can see below). It's the connector on the solenoid side that's broken off from the solenoid, and which goes to the coil according to the wiring diagram. Not sure when it has broken off and can't see it affecting this, unless it's been grounding itself somewhere and causing a problem. Not sure what to do about this though - can I tap into another wire going into the solenoid to get this connection secure, or if not what could I do other than having to get a new solenoid? Looking down in the engine bay, I did notice this ground cable could do with replacing but that's probably not related. Last of all I looked at the distributor cap. While the spark plug leads were all secure, the coil lead does seem to have some movement in it. Have a look at the video below: And so there I've left it for now. Need to find out how to fix this solenoid connector, and then how to remove the coil before I go any further
  18. Thanks for that really detailed write-up. Possibly a dumb question but I'll need to reset ignition timing if the distributor comes out, won't I? If that's the case I'll need to wait until I can get access to a timing light.
  19. Ok I'll add it to the things to check. Thanks for explaining it a little. Whereabouts is the flowback solenoid?
  20. Would a fuel issue cause the tach to just start swinging around wildly? Even going above what I the speed should have my rpm at?
  21. Oh, might be related or might be unrelated, but should the vacuum pipe be open on the distributor or should it be connected to something? On mine it's just open and the service manual says things like, "Reconnect the vacuum pipe, (if fitted)"
  22. Thanks. I'll do that. What would that mean if it's too hot to the touch, as in what would be causing it to be too hot?
  23. Yeah, I kind of thought that's what might be causing the backfire when it came back to life again. Thanks for the thoughts on what to check. Hopefully I'll find something that's a bit loose. I'd hate it to be a problem I can't source.
  24. Top stuff. Thanks for those Had my first worry driving the car today though. To save writing the same as elsewhere, I've made a new thread about the problem: http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/69976-car-cutting-out-tach-all-over-the-shop
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