soldave

Well after a couple of hours this morning removing the spacers and resetting the auto-tensioner, it's all fitted and looks much better. Still unsure where those spacers came from - will just take it as Stage 1 weight saving! Next on the list, flushing the coolant without flooding the garage when I open the radiator drain valve! Some sort of canal for the coolant is going to be needed methinks

Thanks for the pics. Yeah, it looks like mine is just a mm or two too far forward. Might have to loosen the tensioner bolts and try to find out why. I do have to remove one of them to get the alternator strap back on anyway.

I can rotate the engine and there doesn't feel like there's rubbing in the crank pulley area but you're 100% right it doesn't look right. But the only way to get the tensioner closer to the body is: Moving the spacers to the outside of the tensioner - makes no sense Removing the spacer plate which my "dummy" AC pulley goes on - would mean v-belt isn't aligned Remove the aluminium "arm" between spacer plate and engine - would mean v-belt isn't aligned.

Note to self: Always take photos before you do work Can someone please let me know where I've gone wrong here? Got the auto tensioner back on after some blood, sweat and tears, but the tensioner seems to be sitting too far out compared to the belt even though there doesn't feel to be any contact with the crank pulley. My current setup also means the alternator strap won't fit anywhere. Should the 5mm spacers go in front of the tensioner (i.e. towards the fruit of the car) or is between tensioner and metal plate correct? I wondered about spacers going in front but then it feels like the lock screw on the tensioner piston won't be able to turn. Please be kind - I know I shouldn't be struggling with this!

The marks are there in shot and the cams are aligned; it's just the dimples are super faint. Definitely nowhere else on the cam gears!

Certainly needs a tighten! The timing marks on the cams are shocking; once it's all timed I need to tip-ex a couple of new marks on there.

I always lose complete confidence in myself when doing timing belt so could someone just sense check me please? Got old belt off and new one starting to go back on although I'm getting a new auto tensioner rebuild kit (which may cure this worry I have). Got the belt around cam sprockets (aligned), ignition sprocket, and crank sprocket with crank at TDC but there seems to be a little too much belt slackness between cams for my liking. The problem is it's not a tooth worth of slack. Once the tensioner is back on and engine turned by hand, will this tighten up and sort itself out or am I possibly a tooth off somewhere? Done this so many times on cars but always makes me nervous so please be kind! 😁 https://youtu.be/xrAWgPsG2e4

I use something like this through summer and winter and it's never given me any problems. Hexeal BLUE ANTIFREEZE & COOLANT | 5L | -23ºC | Ready Mix | Longlife 642968734452 | eBay

Oooh that's good to know! Could be an option then if it's due for a rebuild 👍

I have a 10-tonne press but not seen a rebuild before. Would love to do it but not sure if I have enough confidence in my skills 🙁

It would indeed! I've probably done about 6,000 miles since I got it in late 2014.

I potentially have a fair few questions about a water pump replacement on my Eclat. I guess the first question I have is what is the service life of these pumps in general? It hasn't been replaced since I purchased the car in October 2014 and it's due its second cambelt change this winter so I'm wondering if I should be replacing/rebuilding the water pump this time. it's shown no signs of leaking or anything like that so will only rebuild if it's something that should be done (would rather not be making more work for myself!). If the answer is yes it needs rebuilding/replacing this winter then there will probably be a fair more questions so be warned! Thanks in advance for any advice people can provide.

Glad to hear it's working out well for you

I kid a little. Probably wouldn't be my tyre of choice for flinging a sports car round mountain roads, but as a tyre on an Eclat it's a decent enough choice. The problem is just that: there isn't much choice.

Late to the party on this one, but that's a great looking car, both inside and out.

Great stuff. Thanks for posting this👍 Are you planning on like for like rewire or considering using any more modem technologies?

@madmax if you get a kit and know how to rebuild then I'm based near Wakefield and have a press you're more than welcome to use. We can take some photos and do a bit of a "how to" to help others who want to do the rebuild in the future.

Do you mind giving a ballpark price on what you paid for the reupholstering of the seats? Would be interested to see how prices compare Stateside compared to here in the UK.

Good to hear you're back working on it. Fire me a message if you ever need a hand turning a spanner on it

Not sure about the trunnions, but I'll agree on those front springs. Taking them off is one of the most terrifying moments I've had working on a car! I ran out of the garage with it like it was a bomb!

Are these the kind of clips you mean (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pandoras-Upholstery-Pirelli-Clips-20/dp/B00LPEOA6U)? Just trying to work out how the clips would attach to the bottom of the seat frame.

Probably a simple question for someone, but does anyone know why there isn't a model variant number on the B-pillar?

Awesome. Love reading builds like this and seeing the rewards coming from all the blood, sweat, tears, and pounds.

Good point. Maybe I shouldn't be surprised then! Throw in a bit of a drain on the battery through less than smooth bearings on fan, bad earths etc and it all adds up.

Question for you all: are the heaters in these things particular drains on the battery? Have been driving recently with the heater on and have noticed that when it's on power 1 my voltmeter drops right onto the 13V mark; on power 2 it drops a little below that. All of my other accessories can be on and make almost no difference to the voltage. First thought was the alternator not giving me enough voltage but it was rebuilt probably 12-18 months ago so shouldn't be that I hope. It could very well be taking all the power of the car to turn the fan as it does seem to squeak and rattle a little when I initially turn the heating on!