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Benco last won the day on January 5 2015

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  1. Hi Pete, thanks for the feedback, the valve springs are all ok from a first look. Yes the engine mounting is part of the sump casting, an extra kwing’ on either side.
  2. Well I was on such a roll, I carried on and removed the head, and built some very homemade looking liner clamps. Should I make 4 clamps or use 2 as it shows in the manual? So, cylinder 3 has had one of the exhaust valves on it (see picture) and interestingly the shim thickness on that valve is much bigger than the rest of the exhaust valve shims, 0.108” vs av of about 0.101, is that likely to have made the difference? That valve is also not seating properly (see photo). The waterways are pretty clean, except for gunk underneath cylinder #4 h see photo). Most of the rubbish seen on the piston crowns was loose debris that could be hovered up easily. The bores look clean and apart from the valve witness on cylinder 3, they just look a little oily, which does wipe clean.
  3. Started to strip the engine down…. In projects and restorations section
  4. Ok, took a big gulp and have started to disassemble the engine….and so far it’s not been as painful as I thought. Appreciate some mid disassembly pointers: I’ve been measuring the shims as they come out and making sure that they are staying with their respective cam follower. All of the followers look ok and we’re a smooth fit in the cam tower. Most of the shims have a smooth spot in the middle where they have been up against the valve stem, some have a step there….so presume that those with any step should be replaced? The camshafts aren’t showing any kind of tracking or wear patterns…so presume they will be good to carry on with. Any other things that I should look at, at this point before taking the head off? thanks Terry
  5. I had a difficult time taking the spoiler off of the car as all of the ‘captive nuts’ had rusted with the bolts. I ended up drilling the bolts out from the inside of the light pods, and then taking the captive nuts off of the spoiler. Anyone know where I can get some new ones or suggestions on alternative ways to re fix the spoiler back onto the car? thanks T
  6. Thanks Pete 🙂, yes I think so too! Do the cylinder bores look ok? Listening to you both then is a ‘top-end’ plan? fully (finally) degrease all of the engine externals set pistons to be 1/2 way position in cylinders measure all existing valve clearances and remove cam towers look after all of the shims remove head, try to keep the liners in place (are they likely to move when the head is removed?) remove and clean sump, oil pick up etc options are: find local cyl. head rebuilder to clean, and as necc. replace valve guides, replace valves, reseat, (head skim?) etc Or fully clean head myself, etc or…? I read in the manual that the head gasket should be replaced with one with the same number of laminations as removed (but I haven’t seen this option on sites selling these)… are they essentially all the same? Crank/big end bearing condition checking, is that just to look for ‘scoring’ in the shells? And I guess, if I’ve gone this far, how much more difficult is it to refurbish the bottom end? Thanks Terry
  7. Thanks Pete (x2). I bought a cheap Wi-Fi endoscope from ebay, close close up the focus is a bit off, but it’s good enough to have a look. From your feedback and the images below I think you’re right. Cylinders look best in #1 and 2, both 3 and 4 have some crud coming in through the inlet valves. Inlet side is about ‘11 o clock’ on the photos. With the inlet manifold off then I can see that there is water related? corrosion on the port. And also #3 and 4 seem oily. First 4 manifold photos are inlet side. On the exhaust side, the same, looks like #1 and 2 were firing while #3 and 4 don’t have that appearance that would indicate good/any ignition. Last 4 photos are exhaust side This is really an untrained eye, so appreciate feedback…… but yes, I guess this engine will be coming apart.
  8. Thanks Pete, I shall do both to help bring it down. Nice to know that it will go that way and knowing that the rear is really well supported across the chassis!
  9. Hi, quick spot of advice needed. I fitted foam on the rear cross member, and it’s such nice foam that it’s preventing the rear body fittings coming down onto the chassis. So, I guess that I should trim the thickness of the foam down, rather than shine the difference between the mount and the chassis? The gap is about 2mm.
  10. Hi, with the goal of getting my car on the road this year I’m finally at the ‘Engine’ stage. From my other thread in projects, it’s a 912 1982 engine that is currently on the engine stand in the garage. Looking through all of the threads I’ve picked up must-do’s and dont’s, and so far: carburettors are back from refurbishment, they look great, cleaned and new seals etc all round new fuel line, tank recoated inside, new fuel filter ….the fuel pump looks brand new but I’ll run petrol through it before plumbing it in reconditioned and tested water pump have a new timing belt to fit radiator all flushed through and fins cleaned out, need to get the radiator fans tested before fitting will fit new spark plugs, HT leads and clean out the distributor Looking at the engine, I’m degreasing it bit by bit, manifolds are off and looking at the exhaust ports it looks like it was running ‘rich’ but no sign of any oil and there’s no sign of water emulsion anywhere in the cam towers or when I drained the oil. The camshaft lobes and followers look like new to me, no wear visible anywhere. No oil leaks visible at either end of the crankshaft seals. The spark plugs came out easily, except #4 which needed more gentle persuasion, but there’s no evidence of any cross threading there. So appreciate advice, what else should I be checking out? I plan to recheck all of the valve clearances and once adjusted (if needed) should I put the engine back together as is with all of the refurbished parts above or should I go deeper into the engine? The engine last ran years ago, before I had it anyway. thanks Terry
  11. Hi, have looked through the forum but couldn’t see details on the thread size of the 2 jacking points? under the fron t cross member and the same at the rear just behind the diff. Are these points suitable for fitting jacking pads to?
  12. Refurbished / recoated fuel tank is back in and for the first time in 2 years the body is back on!
  13. Hi, here’s the run of the vent pipe. It starts from the main filler neck, runs above the fuel tank (near the boot ‘springs’), then down and behind the battery and finally behind the aerial and across behind the bumper. … there is also this small ‘legacy’ pipe that I presume used to be connected to the fuel pump.
  14. Hi Graham, the fuel pump on my car was replaced, so it’s a newer pump that only has an in & out. The only tube going through the floor of the boot is the main fuel line from the pump. I can see that there is an unused small tube still clipped above the fuel pump, that runs across/above the fuel tank, round above the battery location and then down behind the rear bumper. I’ll take some photos tomorrow 👍
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