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Benco

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Benco last won the day on January 5 2015

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About Benco

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  • Name
    Terry
  • Car
    Eclat Riviera
  • Location
    Bristol

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  1. Hi, just at the point of replacing the uj’s in the driveshafts. The new uj’s (HS163) are a very tight fit, and just slightly too big for the driveshafts. I’m cleaning up the bores where the caps of the uj’s sit…. Any advice/recommendations on cleaning these (rusty in places) bores? Is it worth reaming with a hand reamer to clean them up… if yes what size? (27mm?)
  2. So I spent time in the garage today, hiding from the sun (but still v.warm which is lovely), under the car, scraping off all of the old sound deadening foam. What a lovely job, I ended up wearing my respirator as it was just amazing how the foam crumbles to dust with the slightest touch. Going to replace all of that with foil covered closed cell foam, probably 10mm (unless any other recommendations). I also removed the totally rusted rear seat belt mounts, wow another lovely job. After trying different ways it seemed the best results were by cutting as much of the bolt off and the drilling the rest. Very happy these are now gone! Final question today - I couldn’t find a direct replacement for the Tecalemit fuel cut off solenoid. So looking on eBay found this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224137006828 will this do the job? Or does anyone know where I can get a like for like replacement?
  3. Things are moving well, I need to get the closed cell and sound deadening foam for the rear crossmember and tunnel respectively. Does anyone have a photo that shows where the tunnel foam needs to be placed (sides and top?) and the thickness of both the crossmember and tunnel foams? Thanks
  4. Thanks Dan, mine was slightly smaller by about 1mm, so I persevered and used the link arms to encourage the studs to come together and it fitted. Before fitting the shoes and drums, just a question about this spacer plate. In my disassembly I didn’t have these on either side. I presume they are needed? If yes, the manual is quite unclear on how they fit… does anyone have photos?
  5. Hi Dan, that would be great - yes please would love to know the dimensions on that channel. Yep, will seal and only need to fit once! Thanks
  6. Hi, yes, I have that strengthening bar. It was used by someone before as a jacking point and horribly bent out of shape. Interestingly though it won’t fit at the moment, the distance between the holes is too small compared to the distance between the studs. Not sure whether I need to try and get this even straighter (although I thought it was straight enough), or do I ease the holes in the bar? Other observation is on the amount of thread available from the stud is quite different on both sides. In terms of tightening, should I torque the rear studs completely before tightening the 2 front diff mountings? Finally, just a quick question of the sealing of the rear diff cover - even with a new SJ gasket and correct torque I’m still weeping gear oil…..is it worth sealant on both sides of this? Or a different (non SJ supplied gasket)?
  7. ….slowly getting things back together… diff (and all of the brake pipes and new fuel pipe) back on the chassis with some judicious ‘boot work’ to line things up 🙂. (Pictures to follow as they are too big at the moment)
  8. Hi Pete, comprehensive notes - thanks. Yes both drain and filler plugs have loosened without a problem. Ok, will have oil seals, o rings ready and thanks for the tip about the chamfer. I’ve been worried about the breather, so handling it with kid gloves. I’ll try and avoid any paint on those backplate mating surfaces, and the backplate doesn’t look worn in places (but I’ll check properly when they are off). I’ve a couple of rivets to replace on the oil catcher strips. If it all gets hot then maybe I should use a higher temp paint than the Rustoleum I’ve used on some of the front suspension parts? Great pointers - thankyou!
  9. Onto the backend.....I had some time today draining the oil, degreasing and cleaning up the diff. I’ve trawled the forum and see that I should be able to use a slide hammer to remove the output shafts, so I can get the brake backing plates off to clean, de rust and paint them. I’ve never been in the car when it’s been running and I understand that the diff itself might need work.... but willing to take the risk (and save a lot of cash potentially). Any recommendations/watch points that I should take care with? I see quite a bit of silicon type sealant around the output shaft retaining plate - something to replicate after painting?
  10. Hi, with still a very good amount of thread engagement I did a couple of things: extended the male thread on each track rod shortened the track rod end so now I have wheels that are roughly pointing in the same direction with room to adjust them further in, thanks all for suggestions .... I have ‘front feet’ on the ground!
  11. Hi, thanks, I’ve left a message with SJ - but given the dimensions shared by Pete, I guess that I could easily take that shoulder off of the track rod end to achieve 70mm....
  12. Hi, sadly nothing changed on the rack - only some paint and new polymer mountings....
  13. Thanks for the feedback, ok, I’ve measured mine being 78mm from centre of pin to end of the threaded part. So on the face of it they’re too long. But I also had a look at my pre-disassembly photos and see that I previously had the track rod ends connecting ‘up’ (nut on top) rather than ‘down’. So I took the steering arms off and swapped them over, thinking that the extra distance might help, but sadly not. That then has me thinking whether I’ve got the correct link arms/trunnions on the correct side.... which maybe a completely red herring. But just to check here: I’ve the right hand threaded trunnion / link arm on the drivers side and the left hand threaded link arm /trunnion on the passenger side. Is this correct? Does it make a difference which side they should be on, or is this just a quick avenue to close off as it’s irrelevant. Thanks Terry
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