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Everything posted by Benco

  1. Small things! Its nice to have a couple of ‘milestone’ moments while all of the bigger stuff is still underway 🙂. Radio (well the cassette player) now works pumping out sounds I’ve not heard for a while (well not really pumping with some 20W of raw stereo power 😂) As the centre console is out and as the plastic ‘veneer’ was completely cracked/missing in places, then I’ve replaced it all with some real wooden veneer and I’m really pleased with how it looks. Just need to decide what coating to put on, clear polyurethane or a hard wax …. Any recommendations?
  2. I’m sure you’ll make the right call and until you mentioned it, I hadn’t seen the colour matched bumpers on the car now. 🙂
  3. Brilliant, can’t wait to see your progress with this sibling Riviera! Mine was originally A15 but was resprayed (badly in places) as A33. 🙂
  4. Hi Graham, thanks for the advice, very happy to say that the panel is out! Now I’ve been able to access the rear of all of the switches and try to see if I’ve power to them. 1) No power to the light switch, so I’ve remade the connection at the positive post of the starter motor. This still didn’t help, so I found the loom connection in the drivers footwell and found that contacts there were corroded. Once these were cleaned up it was great to have power to the light switch. As I had all of the switches out I’ve given them a good clean up, with 1200 grit paper and degreased them. However this switch is behaving badly still, so will try and find another that will hopefully be in better shape. 2) I have power to the fan switch but sadly no life here. I’ve gone through and mapped how the switch worked and interestingly the wiring diagram for the 2.2 Eclat is different to how it is on the car. I know that I don’t have air con, and I can see these wires taped up on the loom. So I connected it up as the diagram, only to find a little smoke coming out of the grill. I guess the fan motors are seized? These can only come out with a dashboard removal? Good news is that headlamp motors, lights are all working. Now only the wipers, and indicators as well to get working!
  5. Just spotted this picture from earlier in the thread, I have the car two registrations before XPW 967X, Lotus Eclat Riviera in blue. 🙂
  6. Hi - again thanks for this, really helpful. Just a quick question: The two nuts just above the heater vents were wing nuts, so very easy to remove. However trying to reach the others up / around the heater controls are really tricky to get to…. Any advice/angles that might work better? Thanks
  7. Thanks both, and very happy for anyone who’s been there to jump in! 🙂🙂 I have some free time later today and can’t wait to get stuck onto this, great advice thank-you!
  8. Thanks Dave, just another quick question….have you ever removed these switches from the centre console? Maybe I'm being too cautious but I started to take some out but found them resisting and I didn’t want to pull them too hard.
  9. Think amongst many electrical challenges that I might have a similar problem….. so can anyone tell me where I should expect to find the voltage stabiliser on the Eclat S2.2? Also, should I be able to pull out the switches on the centre console from the panel, including the wiring connector? thanks B
  10. I’m in the electrical hole …. 😆 So I’m really starting to get stuck into the electrical system and what a deep dark world I’ve entered 🙂. I’m tracing all the wiring against the wiring diagram and highlighting those wires that are connected. It all starts with the ignition switch and as it wasn’t working at all, I’ve ordered a replacement. Maybe like other cars, the fan relay/circuits and fan fail module have been bypassed The glovebox light works! But sadly no other internal lights yet … and so much more to fix…. Maybe someone else has had this problem: I must have a bad earth somewhere, when I switch the internal fan to a proper connected position, things start lighting up wrongly (like both indicator lamps on the dashboard) When in a neutral unconnected position, then more things work (like the internal clock) Can someone tell me where I can find the earthing points in/around the dashboard and controls? … and sorry for a really straightforward question…. Controls like the fog light / Light switches etc - are they in the ‘off’ position when they are switched ‘up’ or when switched ‘down’?
  11. Well…. They took up far too much time to do….. but I am really pleased with the result!
  12. Thx, any suggestions on replacements out there from anyone who has made the change?
  13. Took the plunge and had the head checked out, pressure tested. Not too bad, I need all new exhaust valves and new guides, recut seats etc. So I’m doing some of the other jobs: master cylinder refurb kit arrived, and that’s now back on the car. Just need to make up 2 new link pipes for the front and rear brake lines and the I can actually see whether the brakes perform (expecting some leaks) after days of paint stripping the cam covers are free of the old paint, they’re now being painted outside in this lovely weather leaves me with the old radiator fans. They are quite a lump, is it worth replacing them or refurbishing them? If replace, any recommendations? I’ve acquired a third one from somewhere (orange plastic fan) vs the two metal ones.
  14. Hi Pete, thanks for the feedback, the valve springs are all ok from a first look. Yes the engine mounting is part of the sump casting, an extra kwing’ on either side.
  15. Well I was on such a roll, I carried on and removed the head, and built some very homemade looking liner clamps. Should I make 4 clamps or use 2 as it shows in the manual? So, cylinder 3 has had one of the exhaust valves on it (see picture) and interestingly the shim thickness on that valve is much bigger than the rest of the exhaust valve shims, 0.108” vs av of about 0.101, is that likely to have made the difference? That valve is also not seating properly (see photo). The waterways are pretty clean, except for gunk underneath cylinder #4 h see photo). Most of the rubbish seen on the piston crowns was loose debris that could be hovered up easily. The bores look clean and apart from the valve witness on cylinder 3, they just look a little oily, which does wipe clean.
  16. Started to strip the engine down…. In projects and restorations section
  17. Ok, took a big gulp and have started to disassemble the engine….and so far it’s not been as painful as I thought. Appreciate some mid disassembly pointers: I’ve been measuring the shims as they come out and making sure that they are staying with their respective cam follower. All of the followers look ok and we’re a smooth fit in the cam tower. Most of the shims have a smooth spot in the middle where they have been up against the valve stem, some have a step there….so presume that those with any step should be replaced? The camshafts aren’t showing any kind of tracking or wear patterns…so presume they will be good to carry on with. Any other things that I should look at, at this point before taking the head off? thanks Terry
  18. I had a difficult time taking the spoiler off of the car as all of the ‘captive nuts’ had rusted with the bolts. I ended up drilling the bolts out from the inside of the light pods, and then taking the captive nuts off of the spoiler. Anyone know where I can get some new ones or suggestions on alternative ways to re fix the spoiler back onto the car? thanks T
  19. Thanks Pete 🙂, yes I think so too! Do the cylinder bores look ok? Listening to you both then is a ‘top-end’ plan? fully (finally) degrease all of the engine externals set pistons to be 1/2 way position in cylinders measure all existing valve clearances and remove cam towers look after all of the shims remove head, try to keep the liners in place (are they likely to move when the head is removed?) remove and clean sump, oil pick up etc options are: find local cyl. head rebuilder to clean, and as necc. replace valve guides, replace valves, reseat, (head skim?) etc Or fully clean head myself, etc or…? I read in the manual that the head gasket should be replaced with one with the same number of laminations as removed (but I haven’t seen this option on sites selling these)… are they essentially all the same? Crank/big end bearing condition checking, is that just to look for ‘scoring’ in the shells? And I guess, if I’ve gone this far, how much more difficult is it to refurbish the bottom end? Thanks Terry
  20. Thanks Pete (x2). I bought a cheap Wi-Fi endoscope from ebay, close close up the focus is a bit off, but it’s good enough to have a look. From your feedback and the images below I think you’re right. Cylinders look best in #1 and 2, both 3 and 4 have some crud coming in through the inlet valves. Inlet side is about ‘11 o clock’ on the photos. With the inlet manifold off then I can see that there is water related? corrosion on the port. And also #3 and 4 seem oily. First 4 manifold photos are inlet side. On the exhaust side, the same, looks like #1 and 2 were firing while #3 and 4 don’t have that appearance that would indicate good/any ignition. Last 4 photos are exhaust side This is really an untrained eye, so appreciate feedback…… but yes, I guess this engine will be coming apart.
  21. Thanks Pete, I shall do both to help bring it down. Nice to know that it will go that way and knowing that the rear is really well supported across the chassis!
  22. Hi, quick spot of advice needed. I fitted foam on the rear cross member, and it’s such nice foam that it’s preventing the rear body fittings coming down onto the chassis. So, I guess that I should trim the thickness of the foam down, rather than shine the difference between the mount and the chassis? The gap is about 2mm.
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