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Everything posted by mike_sekinger

  1. How is the performance of the car? Does it feel completely flat or electric ? If you have no boost control, the car will spin off down the road like a greased weasel..... if you have no boost, then the engine will feel really quite flat by comparison. If there has been no notable change in performance, then I would be checking your gauge connection. If it is reading 0 at idle, then I doubt that it is connected or receiving any real pressure from the manifold.
  2. The jig has a guide hole that is drilled dia. 6.3mm. I'm away from home, so cannot measure the width of the primary drive pulley's and washer. You do have some space behind the assy. before impacting the oil seal sleeve but of course need to determine a depth measurement.
  3. PNM kit - 100GBP + VAT and shipping
  4. The position of the primary drive pulley's do not need to be synced with the cam pulleys prior to clamping, as neither are indexed. Once the position of the primary drive is fixed, the procedure allows for the cam pulley to be dragged to take up any belt slack before being clamped in position.
  5. Sorry, but your mechanic is a self opinionated Mother****er. Having decide to go his own way, he now has issues and still wants to argue on each point of help offered. I hope that he doesn't kill your engine.
  6. Tell your mechanic not to panic. It is a modification that can be performed without removing the front cover. The tool that Gonzalo designed, allows you to drill the pulleys and IMS in-situ to the desired depth. It is a great safeguard, but sufficient clamp should be possible anyway. This safeguards the possibility that the IMS bolt does not have sufficient clamp sometime in the future or as a result of servicing where the full torque is not applied. As I offered, I can send you the drill jig to borrow if you want.
  7. My jaw is open..... Are you sure that the correct IMS bolt has been used? It could be that the thread is bottoming before reaching sufficient clamp. I'm assuming that the flywheel is locked while torqueing the bolt. I would also recommend to fit a Scotch Key on the IMS and primary drive pulleys to ensure that they cannot drift even without 100% clamp. There is a great and simply tool developed by Gonzalo Mendoza for drilling the IMS and pulley's in-situ. I have one you can borrow if you like. Your builder needs to be very careful not to force any apparent interference, while he re-establishes the correct crank/cam timing.
  8. Good stuff. Turbo Dynamics are a great company to work with. They really care about their work and you don't get stiffed like some of these refurbishment companies. You will really struggle to get the exhaust manifolds off with the engine in-situ. It's possible, but only when all of the fixings are very fresh - even then it's very tricky.
  9. Could well be. At least with 360 deg bearing and staggered gap oil seals. Turbo Dynamics do a very thorough and reasonably priced overhaul.
  10. Your oil seals are worn. How are the general health of the turbos? Is there more shaft play on that side than on the other?
  11. The engine builder has decided to save himself the trouble by not loosening the cam pulleys - and just reinstalling the complete shaft/pulley assy (and re-used front cam oil seal). I guess that means installing the used belts as well..
  12. Then there is no point in providing any further input. He has decided to make his own way despite being informed.
  13. Get the guy the Service Notes... echo...
  14. Sorry - I can't help it.... it seems to be a joke. Why is he fitting cam covers and wiring the plugs before setting the cam timing? He's going to need to clamp or hold the camshafts to tighten the pulley's. Please, please get your mechanic a copy of the Service Notes for the 918 engine before it is too late.
  15. Oops - excuse my ignorance. I'll stick to comments on the V8
  16. Hmm... it's a dual tank set-up with two separate pressure cap.
  17. I would expect that the heater circuit contains a reasonable amount.
  18. I'm struggling on this thread - you want the "ultimate in reliability" and go to the trouble of balancing and purchasing nice forged pistons, but you are having your mechanic re-use your old liners and without any glaze busting/re-surfacing? Why is that? What piston->cylinder clearance do you have across those liners? Has that been measured? As previously highlighted, the OEM pistons/liners are provided in two size grades, you could end up with wrong clearance when installing the piston. Same with the ring gapping that would have been necessary. I don't want to come across as being a critical old fart, but some of these decisions make no sense to me.
  19. Sorry to make the observation, but why has the engine builder elected not to install the cylinder heads when sealing the liners? That is not an appropriate way to clamp the liners in place.....
  20. Both the block and cylinder heads are made aluminium alloy LM25TF (fully heat treated LM25) A lot of the pitting is coming from cases where either incorrect coolant is used or that the coolant has not been replaced at the correct intervals.
  21. Nice to see some progress. Do you know what ring gaps your builder set for the Carrillo pistons?
  22. Most modern systems have the option for triggering off the MAP
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