mike_sekinger

Collected the dry ice blasted block today. A few things to check and I`ll be ready to start the engine build.

Hybrid turbos for step 1 engine build (stock exhaust manifolds and standard turbo position) with Zircotec ceramic thermal coating. Stage 2 turbo work done by Turbo Dynamics in Christchurch: - latest 11 vane billet full GT2860 compressors - cut back turbine side - 360deg bearings with staggered gap oil seals

The cross section of the steering wheel is not round - it is slightly oval. The measurement as you request it is a fraction less than 30mm Measurement back to front is 35mm

@ProAlloy-Alex C'mon Alex. It`s been practically 3 weeks since the last update. Please can you share your progress?

Thermal dynamics - the engine coolant is circulating once up to temperature at between 83-90deg (maybe even a little higher in certain climates). If that were running through the chargecoolers it would be heating them up, not cooling the charge. The coolant temperature of the seperate chargecooler circuit is going to be close to ambient temperature and therefore a good medium to transfer heat out of the compressed charge.

The coolant level sensor should seal without any issues. I would not remove that, as this tell-tale is an extreme safegaurd especially important in the case where you have experienced coolant loss. Maybe check the sealing rubber on the underside of the cap.

I`m not installing the secondary water pump for the engine. There will be a coolant pre-heater installed like Andrä. This will have a dry-break for the circuit heating prior to start-up.. This is not going to be a jump-in and drive type of deal.

This is for the main coolant circuit and is linked to the fan controller in the cockpit. It just makes good use of the space IMO. The chargecooler pump is fitted in the rear compartment.

Good advice. I`m going to install a burp-pipe or bleed prior to proper installation.

Hi Tom, It`s a modified position as I do not have the side walls. Mike S

Ditching the mechanical water pump, so tackled the challenge to install the Davies Craig EWP150 up front.

Finally received the hardware to install the helper springs. Will be running a little lower than standard and the springs loose pre-load as the platforms are lowered.

To remove the driveshafts, I`m a fan of dropping the bottom link at the chassis end and leaving the rest in place. You will have to pull the hub out a wheel/hub out a fair way to dis-engage the driveshaft. Looks like you`ve got several things on the go. Were you wanting to remove the plenum to remove the cam covers once again?

Hi Christiaan, There is a separate pre-radiator and coolant circuit for the chargecoolers. This is typically sitting upfront of the main coolant radiator.

Support the pressure regulator on the inboard flats of the body and undo the front nut. Once the torque is cracked-off, the nut is free to move independantly from the pipe.

Need to decide to either re-install the OEM fibre-board fuel tank heatshields or use reflective sheet. The exhaust manifolds are Zircotec ceramic coated, but some additional heat protection won`t hurt. There will be an engine undertray installed.

You should pressurise your coolant circuit and do a leak down test, but if you were loosing coolant from your header tank I would expect there to be some residiual evidence of coolant. If you have no visible coolant leaks then the coolant loss is pointing toward being engine internal. Did you not get an HG tester kit for header tank to check for presence of exhaust gasses? Although I understand that you can seemingly drive the car `gently` without any issues, I would not ignore the problem. Issues can start minor and deteriorate very quickly, so why risk it? IMO you should at least perform those easy checks to discount HG failure or pressure cap/header tank issues.

@ProAlloy-Alex Any updates for us?

Any further infos on your coolant issue?

There is a healthy air gap between the top of tank and the tank cover panel. Your are right, that`s the adaptor box. The 9 pins is old serial comms, but there is provision for the Motec UTC direct to the dash.

RH side done

Left side installed and plumbed.

RH side. Cutting carbon sheet is not a lot of fun...

It`s all theoretical because the cause is not known, but your cylinder pressures will be higher under boost and that may be resulting in loss of the coolant. I would try not to drive the car until you fully understand the issue. If something is wrong then it can get worst. If you do have any coolant leaking into the cylinders, in a bad case you could experience hydrolock, which could damage a whole lot more damage to the engine internals.

Those are not what I would call ´small coolant losses`. If there are no apparent external signed of coolant loss, then it does sound as though you may a leak somewhere within the engine. You can confirm HG failure with the simple test via the header tank already highlighted by John. If it is not the HG, that you may have a failure in your liners. Check your dipstick for any emusified oil that would indicate that you have coolant escaping to the sump. You might also want to consider dropping the sump to check for signs of residual coolant or leaks. I would also be concerned about the overheating event. Assuming that was not the source of your issue, overheating like that can typical create additional issues with alloy cylinder heads. When you were stuck in traffic, were your radiator fans running? Just trying to understand if you had a fan failure that caused the overheating in the first place. It is not likely that the coolant is escaping from your turbo bearing housings. Please keep us posted on your findings.