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Everything posted by mike_sekinger

  1. I'll happily flash that for you, although I would not recommend it.
  2. You need to think about your power target and how you want the power to be delivered. The high torque code gives you more aggressive boost curves, but still retains some civility in the power delivery. The red race calibration will remove any boost limits in any gear will allow you full transient boost - also in 1st gear. That may mean loss of traction in the lower gears. It is not really clear what your objective is.
  3. They look like a pure exhaust company. I have my doubts that any ECU remapping will have been done on the Lotus ECU.
  4. You can get it from me for a fraction of that. Genuine Lotus code, flashed, not inserted chips. Send the ECU to me and I will sort it out for you. Don't install a manual boost controller. The ECU won't cut fuel, but you want your ECU to control the boost with the boost solenoid.
  5. I would re-iterate the suggestion to get your ECU re-flashed with the high-torque code as a first step. What main coolant radiator do you have installed - stock 2-row or a larger core uprated one? With a decent main coolant radiator, you should have no issues installing a chargecooler radiator up-front. If you are really anxious, then you should forget any ideas about increasing boost pressure that will increase you inlet temperature and just place more stress on the coolant system.
  6. Which ECU calibration do you have? If you are only developing higher boost in 4th and 5th, then I would imagine that you have a stock V8 calibration. Before you start thinking about higher boost, I would have your existing ECU flashed with the High Torque calibration from the Sport350 (also used in the Final Edition Esprits). This will remove the boost limits in the lower gears. It will not develop any greater peak power but will provide you with a useable performance increase. See how the car feels with that. You should also check the calibration of your wastegate actuators, as peak boost in 4th and 5th should be approx 0.7bar if all is functioning properly. After that, if you still find yourself wanting more power the you should probably sign-up for the twin chargecooler bulk-purchase from ProAlloy. Even without increasing the boost, you will have some noticeable performance increases by cooling the charge.
  7. Where did the replacement clutch come from and did you see it before it was installed?
  8. Chris is right. The green spring is very similar to the stock spring and can be calibrated to the correct base setting. Next in strength is the yellow spring, which you will not be able to calibrate down to the factory base setting.
  9. Please can you get clarification if any parts of the kit pictured are not included? Also, is there an image of the radiator? 1. Chris W 2. Mike Sekinger (for stock)
  10. EGR - under the plenum to the EGR valve/manifold SAI - to the opposite cylinder head
  11. That's not the right hose arrangement. It should consist of a formed hardened plastic pipe with rubber clamped ends. The pipe is your pressure reference for the fuel regulator. It is a rising rate set-up, so the pressure needs to increase with boost. If you don't have the reference, then you have no increase in pressure.
  12. It is just a calibration point for the base mechanical boost. Meaning that if you loose electronic boost control, the boost will be mechanically limited to around 5psi. In Andy's case, his mechanical base setting is slightly high, meaning that is he looses electronic control, then he will have a slightly higher base boost developing (closer to 7psi). The ECU controls the target boost based on the wastegate duty cycle (expressed as a %). It is basically a square wave with the duration relating directly to the % of time that the solenoid is bleeding air, meaning 50% WGDC = solenoid actuation half of the time. The boost curves that are configured within the ECU calibration are based are values for the WGDC in gear, over the rev range. In a stock set-up, the calibration point just ensures consistency with those values. A minor variation is not going to have a significant change in real-world boost. Of course if you significantly strengthen the wastegate actuator springs, you will change the pre-load and the behaviour for a given WGDC.
  13. Access is extremely limited. For broken studs, you are better placed to remove the engine.
  14. Remove the hose connection to the cross-pipe and let the tanks bleed out. They are the lowest point. You will only be left with the fuel in the pump recess on the RH tank. Those are all parts that you are replacing anyway, so easy.
  15. Service Notes - section ED page 41. You'll need a dial gauge and pressure source (hand pump) - check for rod movement of 0.4mm with 0.34-0.36 bar (4.9-5.2 psi)
  16. I would check that your wastegate actuator base setting is maintained correctly. If that solves your peak boost, then you could still decide to remove the BOVs. The turbos are very small, running moderate boost and have very little noticeable lag.
  17. Some parts arriving, so able to do a little more. Need to create a bracket and hoses for the electric main coolant water pump, which will be mounted to the right of the charge-cooler pump.
  18. Check if your CATs are still in good shape.
  19. Contact Bauke. He has a RHD S4s in Yellow for sale located in Netherlands
  20. Lent one of my hubs as reference for the billet hub project. Now that is how you transport a hub. Nice job on return packaging !
  21. If you'd have built it yourself, it might be in pieces already. 🤣 A fair amount of your cost could have been limited if you had only one party involved from the beginning. It's not a very good case study on how much a typical rebuild might cost.
  22. Time to start work on the car in readiness to accept the engine. Re-fresh the main coolant rad. and add the chargecooler rad up-front. New oil cooler pipes and routing of chargecooler pipes under the car.
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