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Everything posted by mike_sekinger

  1. EGR - under the plenum to the EGR valve/manifold SAI - to the opposite cylinder head
  2. That's not the right hose arrangement. It should consist of a formed hardened plastic pipe with rubber clamped ends. The pipe is your pressure reference for the fuel regulator. It is a rising rate set-up, so the pressure needs to increase with boost. If you don't have the reference, then you have no increase in pressure.
  3. It is just a calibration point for the base mechanical boost. Meaning that if you loose electronic boost control, the boost will be mechanically limited to around 5psi. In Andy's case, his mechanical base setting is slightly high, meaning that is he looses electronic control, then he will have a slightly higher base boost developing (closer to 7psi). The ECU controls the target boost based on the wastegate duty cycle (expressed as a %). It is basically a square wave with the duration relating directly to the % of time that the solenoid is bleeding air, meaning 50% WGDC = solenoid actuation half of the time. The boost curves that are configured within the ECU calibration are based are values for the WGDC in gear, over the rev range. In a stock set-up, the calibration point just ensures consistency with those values. A minor variation is not going to have a significant change in real-world boost. Of course if you significantly strengthen the wastegate actuator springs, you will change the pre-load and the behaviour for a given WGDC.
  4. Access is extremely limited. For broken studs, you are better placed to remove the engine.
  5. Remove the hose connection to the cross-pipe and let the tanks bleed out. They are the lowest point. You will only be left with the fuel in the pump recess on the RH tank. Those are all parts that you are replacing anyway, so easy.
  6. Service Notes - section ED page 41. You'll need a dial gauge and pressure source (hand pump) - check for rod movement of 0.4mm with 0.34-0.36 bar (4.9-5.2 psi)
  7. I would check that your wastegate actuator base setting is maintained correctly. If that solves your peak boost, then you could still decide to remove the BOVs. The turbos are very small, running moderate boost and have very little noticeable lag.
  8. Some parts arriving, so able to do a little more. Need to create a bracket and hoses for the electric main coolant water pump, which will be mounted to the right of the charge-cooler pump.
  9. Check if your CATs are still in good shape.
  10. Contact Bauke. He has a RHD S4s in Yellow for sale located in Netherlands
  11. Lent one of my hubs as reference for the billet hub project. Now that is how you transport a hub. Nice job on return packaging !
  12. If you'd have built it yourself, it might be in pieces already. 🤣 A fair amount of your cost could have been limited if you had only one party involved from the beginning. It's not a very good case study on how much a typical rebuild might cost.
  13. Time to start work on the car in readiness to accept the engine. Re-fresh the main coolant rad. and add the chargecooler rad up-front. New oil cooler pipes and routing of chargecooler pipes under the car.
  14. Cam covers had been painted inside and out, so the baffles had to be stripped, have the paint removed and then the covers drilled and tapped to re-secure. Cam covers then sealed so the top-end is now secured.
  15. Some more plated stuff arrived, so brake hydraulics and steering rack installed Waiting on a delivery from SJ.
  16. Stripped and checked the transmission. Will refresh the a number of seals and bearings
  17. Hi Dave, They are hard-pipe. TIG welding the original end of the compressor ducts, which are formed to clear the manifolds/ex. studs. I have a large stock of raw cast compressor ducts prior to machining and finishing. Mike S
  18. Sorry, I couldn't help a teaser mock-up on the twin charge-cooler set-up. Engine will be running the optimised ECU set-up for the intercooled V8 and 1 bar boost.
  19. I knew that I had some images of Edwards V8 rebuild from back in 2010. It was a three-day ordeal to remove the engine but he looks very pleased with himself in these shots.
  20. I'm shocked. I've had lots of exchanges with Edward over the years. RIP friend.
  21. Cam timing complete. Next image will be the fully dressed engine ready for install.
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