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Everything posted by mike_sekinger

  1. Thanks Derek. Now that we have people looking at the CAD files, there are a number of things popping-up that are either not correct/or optimal. It is likely that the model will need a clean-up and correction to address those things prior to any manufacturing. Some work is starting along those lines, so updates to follow.
  2. 1. Mike Sekinger (x2 sets) one for Andrä Schrörs 2. Greg Dollimore 3. Project M71 4. Harris David (facebook) - David H above maybe? 5. Denis Lavigne (facebook) - "depending on price"
  3. Why on earth would you make a post like this and then never return to the forum ??
  4. There is a current long-term project doing that very exercise. John Clark`s also on the Forum Project M71 Revival | Facebook
  5. If the CAD model verification is done, it would be reall good to be able to move forward to fabrication.
  6. I would expect them to be different given the pressure ranges that each need to cover. In the parts list they have different numbers assigned with different prices. SJ actually list the 918 baro sensor when searching on the 910 baro. On the V8, the baro is definately a different GM part to the 2 bar MAP sensor
  7. Reading the title again.... just to clarify - if your engine is turning over and your cam belts are not moving then you do indeed have a problem and most likely have some bent valves on one or both banks. If that is case, then you`re most likely going to need to strip the top-end to determine the damage. That is best done with the engine out. If you want to talk about it, you can call me on +49 17621699472
  8. Are you mechanically minded and familiar with engines in general? If not, then you should probably stop and get the car to a shop familiar with Lotus V8s. If so, then as Barry says, there are basis fundamentals to check - fuel priming and pressure is easy. Battery voltage would be another. Does the engine crank as before speed-wise. If the engine was turning over, then your cam belts are most probably fine. If the timing was out, the engine would not turn over once you had piston/valve contact. Is the CEL light illuminated and if yes, what are the stored codes.
  9. Think of it this way - with intercooling, your engine is going to make more power and torque than it ever has without. Not just peak power, but throughout the whole rev range. Will it feel quicker and more responsive with more power and torque?... What do you think? For giggles, here is a short video of a chargecooled V8 running higher boost. IMG_0773.MOV
  10. You`re overthinking this. If you have inlet temperature control then the engine power output will not drop off in the same way. As the turbos make full boost, the intercooling will stop the inlet temperature from rising to the point that the ECU is triggered to take action being retarding the ignition advance and enriching the fuelling. The intercooling doesn`t make more boost or change your boost profile. There is no real magic here.
  11. I don`t think that many people will have empirical data for you. If you are after dyno data I can share that for a water-air chargecooled set-up at different boost levels: - stock boost 405bhp 330lb/ft - 1 bar boost 469bhp 384lb/ft - 1.2 bar boost 508bhp 437lb/ft Of course, not all systems are going to be identical but it give you an indication. This will also be affected by ambient temperature conditions. The key in my opinion is being able to produce more dependable power with some form of inlet temperature control, over the stock non-intercooled set-up.
  12. There are various kits, but are very similar. Water-Methanol Injection Boost Cooler Stage 2 ProLine - Water Injection - Snow Performance Boost Cooler Water/Methanol Injection Kit for Forced Induction Gasoline Engines | AEM (
  13. In your situation, I would suggest a water/methanol injection kit.
  14. There are many threads and discussions on this topic. Put simply: The V8 ECU combats high inlet temperatures by enriching the fuel to cool the inlet. This enrichment is what causes the drop off of power when either ambient temps are high or the car is pushed for prolonged periods. Any form of controlling the inlet temperature will help to provide dependable power from the engine - be that air-air, water-air or water/methanol injection. The personal selection of a system is going to be based on a combination of factors. Examples: - do I want to retain my boot space - should the modifications be "invisible" - will you increase the boost as well as introduce inlet cooling The simplest form is water/meth injection. The most difficult imo is air-air intercooling as this requires a cool flow of cool air to the hear exchangers. There have been a lot of creative solutions but the key is to first understand your own personal criteria and goals.
  15. I don`t think that this has done a great deal for the credibility of ProAlloy. Many times over the past months you have been asked if you are still committed to this project. Each time the answer was yes. It is through your own prioritisation calls that this project has taken so long and now prices have shifted and it is no longer viable for you...... there is a great study here on how NOT to do Business.
  16. The ducts were sourced from here: Rectangular air intake | Air intake | Brake ventilation | Brakes and accessories | Vehicle technology | ISA-Racing Motorsport Accessories
  17. No. The intakes were chosen to make the routing as direct as possible as I do not have the compartment walls
  18. and the closed airbox filter and elephant dick. It`s a pretty direct route from cold air to the turbos.
  19. Another small job - LH tank heatshielding where the turbo is closest to the chassis/body. Decided on Teknofibra TEKNOFIBRA - thermal insulation
  20. Did anyone receive the proforma invoices? I certainly didn`t...
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