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mike_sekinger

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Everything posted by mike_sekinger

  1. The crank sensor wires runs as part of the main engine loom back to the ECU connector (pin 79 SigGND, 73 RefHI). You probably won't want to unpack the entire loom, but could run a replacement pair externally if needed. I would buzz the pair and see if you have a weak connection first.
  2. Been held back on some parts, but we have the chargecoolers all plumped-in and functional. Some road testing today although the revs are held back due to the run-in. I do admit that the system does not have the elegance of the ProAlloy set-up, but this system was created many years ago and functions very well.
  3. A little more on the project. Down on it's wheels for some final reference measurements for the custom front spacers. The rears are done.
  4. The crank should be put in the safe position 45deg BTDC #2 cylinder, prior to positioning and setting the cam locating pins. This then allows for the timing belt slack to be evened out while turning to the 10deg BTDC reference point. Personally, I would never turn the crank fully while the cams are set at 10deg BTDC. There is an alternative technique for removing the timing belt slack by using the tensioner itself. Again leaving the cam pulleys loose, you can apply a reasonable tension on the each timing belt to even out the belt runs.
  5. Then get yourself a standard V8 - you will find that the performance in stock form is very exciting and you should have no fear of failures if the car is maintained properly and at regulated intervals.
  6. That is Greg Sidwells old car - assuming that he is not the current vendor. It was a project long in the making and has stood the test of time - meaning it was not thrown together and a potential grenade waiting to go off. If possible, go and see the car in the flesh and arrange to be taken out in it.
  7. Front: AP-Racing 6-pot CP5555-814/815 with CP3581-536/537 G8 (356x32mm) discs These fit nicely inside a 18inch wheel Rear: AP-Racing S350 4-pot (moved from the front to leading in the rear) with CP3580-64/65 G8 (315x28mm) discs
  8. If it's a shop doing the work, they will burn through more hours with this approach. Given that you had the engine cranking over with one bank locked, it is hopeless to imagine that a full top-end rebuild on at least one bank will not be required. Depending on the impressions in the piston crowns, you may also have some remedial work there.
  9. The mounting bells were supplied by AP Racing. I can't find a statement on which aluminium alloy is used.
  10. Slow progress.....Custom billet spacers to get the necessary rear track. Pads fitted finally, but won't have hydraulics/cables for a while yet.
  11. Being straight cut and dog engagement, it comes down to pros and cons which may be more or less relevant depending on what you want from the car: Pros: - much faster shifts, with a shorter throw - possibiltiy for flat throttle clutchless upshifts - closer ratios Cons: - gearbox noise and whine - expense and rarity of spare in case of rebuild
  12. There were only two S350s produced in the Monaco White. This represents a chance for someone to benefit from a well evolved and developed car with some really unique features (e.g. one of only a few GTO UN1 6-speed dog engagement gearboxes)
  13. That external damage is the least of your worries. Sadly, you are going to discover damage most likely to valves in both cylinder heads. On the bright side, everything can be fixed and hopefully before too long you will be enjoying the thrill of driving again.
  14. It was the message from 13th April that gave that impression Chris. I know that ProAlloy are always busy, so not surprised that progress is slower than expected.
  15. @cweeden Any update on progress? As I understood, ProAlloy had the car back with the original installation since some time.
  16. You have cause for concern. The 918 is an interference engine meaning that if your crank is turning and your RH bank camshafts are not, then the piston crowns will have made impact with some of the valves of that bank. Regardless of the actual reason behind the original failure, there will be damage to that bank caused by continuing to turn the engine. The RH bank also houses the cam sensor, hence the reason why the engine is not firing at all (thank heavens for that). If the LH bank continues to turn over, then you must have virtually no tension on the shared primary drive/IMS for the RH belt and it is just skipping. Stop cranking the engine and prepare to extract for a top-end rebuild of the right bank.
  17. If you do decide to remove the driveshaft pins, it's a good idea to punch them out in reverse. Determine which side has the witness marks from the installation and punch to remove from the opposite end inner first and then outer.
  18. All dry underneath. No weeping or leaks from any joints or couplings. Gearbox, road test and then finally the chargecooler plumbing. video-1621087507.mp4
  19. OIl and fuel pressures established Finally had a chance to go for starting today. Caught first time which is always nice. video-1621081038.mp4
  20. Hi Michael, Sadly Alan passed away last year. He did do an awful lot of great work behind the scenes and is still very much missed amongst us. Mike S
  21. Rebuilt with new fuel pumps - rails have pressure. 10 ltrs of Millers run-in oil and we have oil pressure. video-1620583523.mp4
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