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97-Esprit V8

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Everything posted by 97-Esprit V8

  1. Been on the back burner, bought a '01 996TT which is more then eaten into my time as it seems to run without much effort, unlike the esprit Seriously though, not much time so the car is just sitting. I hope to get working on it again for the xmas break. Need to get it back together and running for the summer, may look at selling once its all completed and buying a gallardo. Look for some updates soon enough. Got a nice deal on a set of kinesis F110 wheels for the 996TT, looking to fit them on the LEV8. Found a place that will make up hubcentric spacers that change the bolt pattern from 5x108 to 5x130 for these wheels. Needs to be ~40mm wide, really the biggest thing i don't like about these cars is the lack of modern tire choices. Paul
  2. I have a friend that's looking at taking a few cars in on trade for a new Bentley, one of the cars is a Ferrari 360 and the other is described by the owner as a 2001 Esprit V8 SEC which he claims is a special edition build by cosworth where only 7 were made. I've never heard about this before, maybe someone on here can shed some light. I personally think its just a standard Esprit V8 since the list of special parts I've heard so far is just standard (AP racing brakes, twin disc clutch...) Paul
  3. Mike, Looks great, glad you finally got those arms I sent you and now have them fitted. They are pretty obvious how to install and I doubt you had much trouble sorting them out. I finally got my pistons back for my car fitted to the cylinders and all ready to assemble (I'm back in the game), so I have a set of hc pistons if your still interested Paul Ps love the black crinkle finish on the manifold and valve covers, I'm getting ready to DIY on mine.
  4. turbo has a built in oil restricter in the CHRA I believe it's a GT2560R cartridge
  5. Well long time no update... New turbos are finally done, here's some pictures. Hard to see much difference, the CHRA's are GT2560RS ball bearing units, the compressor housing needed to be machined to fit the larger wheels and the turbine housing needed major work to fit the CHRA. Still waiting on my new pistons...ones I got were standard size after being told they never needed to be larger...I now have 10 overs coming and the high compression units might just end up in a really cool engine build Paul
  6. Intake port ported Exhaust port ported - large increase through to manifold Combustion chamber view Hard to tell from the photos really, mostly just cleaned up the obvious areas - around the exhaust valve guide being a major one. Transitions from the machined valve seat area to the port and the actual valve seat. Most of the work was done in the exhaust port to improve the flow ratio. With the larger turbocharger, increased flow requirements will show some good gains. Once the engine is finished and broken in I will do some dyno testing to see the results.
  7. Went to the turbo shop today as my GT25 turbocharger ball bearing cartridge finally arrived. After looking it over we determined we can make it work. Should be a nice improvement with a higher capacity modern design. Each turbo should be good to 330hp or so, with as good or better response then stock. Sorry no pictures, didn't have my camera.
  8. Yes I didn't feel the coatings would be worth the extra expense personally. I've never had a head flow benched as I feel it's not a representation of actual conditions. Making improvements to flow based on a bench doesn't make much sense. The majority of improvement comes from the valve job and port pocket area, having those done by someone with the correct equipment and experience is key. I try to avoid major opening up on the intake side and focus most of the work in the exhaust port. I agree lots of effort for minimal gains, but they all add up. A bit more compression, bit better flow and larger capacity modern turbochargers, free flowing exhaust system with race cats. I'm pretty confident that this setup will make north of 500rwhp quite easily. I'll be much more interested in doing that with the minimal amount of boost pressure. Paul
  9. Some more updates, been working away and not posting much. Mostly finished porting on one of the cylinder heads. Pushing 8 hours so far, I'll post up some pictures once it's cleaned up. Here are some picture of my new JE pistons from JAE. I opted for 9.0:1 Static Compression Ratio pistons and they happily made me some up. New pistons are 4.4 grams heavier, but their pins are 1.5 grams lighter. So I have a bit of balancing to do to bring them back to factory weight. Just need to get the block off to the machine shop to get the pistons fitted so I can begin the reassembly.
  10. Sounds like a TPS, Mike you should change your signature to read: More spare Lotus parts then sense...and generally a great guy!
  11. Interesting, that is some serious ignition timing retard. Mucho power on the table, what was the IAT?
  12. Might want to try contacting GTO, got a quote for a LSD and the main shaft, 1st & 2nd gear upgrade. Very reasonable at the moment. GTO
  13. Kylie, P02## (01-10) is for fuel injector issue (9 and 10 being secondary injectors) So you have an issue with #8 fuel injector. Could be loose connection or corrosion. Sometime the injector wiring plug gets removed and the rubber seal falls out, then the plug can wiggle and loosen the terminals and corrode. Have a look, hard to get at in the car as you will probably need to pull the intake manifold. This code is also related to the inertia switch, so that could be why it was set when you had to reset the switch. Try clearing it then see if it comes back. Paul
  14. I can't fathom how an engine rebuild could cost $15k USD, seriously, these things aren't magic. I'll be hard pressed to spend $5K on mine(forged pistons and ARP studs as well), serious profit being taken imo. Stick with the 918, if you do go LSx just get a LS1 from an earlier F-body (still has cable throttle). LS7 is huge expense for little gain, a good LS1 based engine will produce as much if not more power for alot less $
  15. Will it run if you rev it? How many miles on the car? Has it sat for long periods of time? Borrow or buy a fuel pressure gauge, check that the fuel pressure is good.
  16. ^ about 8 hours later the piggyback system is integrated into the factory harness. A few wires(orange and white) for additional features, wideband O2, and another analog signal, possibly water to intercooler coolant temperature. A good number of the wires (yellow and green off to the right) will be trimmed out completely once the car is running. Paul
  17. During my upgrading and engine rebuilding I am also installing a very sophisticated piggy back engine management system. The AEM FIC-8 (Fuel Ignition Controller 8 cylinder) installs and uses a combination of intercepting signals and tapping signals to modify the fuel injection pulse width and the ignition timing retard (no advance is possible). The reason for not going complete stand alone is this car is still going to be a street car and programming the engine management for day to day use is extremely painful. The startup, warmup, light throttle cruising and acceleration are incredibly hard to get right via a stand alone. So the piggy back system retains all of the good of the factory tuning and allows the boost fuel control and timing retard to be tuned for individual requirements. Some of the features of this system are as follows: - ability to install larger fuel injectors (+100%) - ability to clamp analog signals, for example the MAP signal to the factory ECU can be limited to what ever you want. - ability to run dual tunes, for example a race fuel tune (fuel ignition and boost control) as well as a street fuel tune at the flick of a switch on the fly. Or in my case a water/meth tune which automatically switches when the water/meth isn't functioning. (read safe) - ability to remove the secondary fuel injectors - they are shite - Datalogging and wideband interface - easy USB tuning on the fly - boost control via the factory solenoid - Onboard MAP sensor (40psia) - maintains the factory IAT ignition timing retard and knock sensor capibilities So I have decided to document the wiring installation, after scouring through the wiring diagrams and matching the the AEM manual, sorting out the wires needed and not needed and how the factory sensors work. I determined I need to splice/tap 28 wires in the factory harness. I will be mounting the AEM unit on top of the factory ECU (PS Mark I need my ECU I lent you back...you know who your are AEM FIC-8 Wiring sorted (Left stays, right goes) Factory wiring harness ECU plug opened up Factory fuel injector (Left) stock GM LS1 fuel injector (Right) More to come once I start cutting and splicing Paul
  18. Link to writeup Loads of good pictures as well.
  19. Remove your rear wing first, then pull the transmission separately from the engine, this will allow you to pull the engine much easier without removing the rear deck. Tricky part is getting the power steering pump and AC compressor off so they stay in the car. 2.5m shouldn't be an issue, install a garage heater. We just had a bout of -40C weather...furnace in the garage for the win
  20. Gonzalo, Did you ever check what your ignition timing is doing under full throttle through to redline with the OBD-II software? The new turbos would be more efficient and thus reduce the heat generated into the charge. Nice results, is your engine stock internally? Paul
  21. Maybe it is cranking normal, mines been broken for awhile, try cranking it with the throttle floored. According to the manual it should crank with the ECU not injecting fuel when the throttle is floored.
  22. Dave, I would try taking an ohmmeter and measuring resistance from the engine to the negative battery terminal, should be near zero. I would wager you have a bad ground, if you don't have an ohmmeter, just put a jumper cable from the negative battery terminal to the engine, anything metal and not painted. Paul
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