Bravo73

Yep, soldering would definitely be your best bet. You are dealing with brake lights, after all. If you can’t solder already, it’s a pretty straight forward skill to learn. With a £30 soldering kit and a few lessons from the University of YouTube, I managed to turn these: ...into these: ...and then, finally, into this: But still, that’s a thread for another time.

Nicknamed ‘Buster’?

FWIW, I was the ‘crash test dummy’ for Greg’s first set of Euro-spec lights. The first resistor, for the indicator, fixes the hyper-flashing issue (common with many LED lights). The second resistor, in the brake circuit, should fix the TC issue. However, like I said, I’ve not had a chance to fit and test mine yet. ISTR that it is a slightly different rating to the first resistor. However, Greg was good enough to send me out one from the USA. @Mark030358 might also be interested in this thread. (I presume that the ‘single taillight’ Exiges use the same circuits as Evoras).

FYI, but I’ve been moving all of the ‘GRP lights/TC issues) to their own thread:

@jamesbilluk, I’ve been having the same problems with an original set of the GRP lights. (@DrRick was having similar before he sold his car, and then the lights). Greg has sent me a resistor that I need to solder into the brake light line (in order to produce more resistance). Unfortunately, I haven’t had a chance to do this yet. Do you know which particular circuit that your resistor is on? Is it the brake circuit or the indicator circuit? Finally, have you tried starting the car with your foot on the brake yet (with the GRP lights fitted, obviously)? I think that this might get around the TC issue. (Once again, I’ve not had a chance to try this personally).

I think that @DarrylV8 did it the other way around - bought a GT430 then got a ‘spare’ wingless bootlid to fit to the car.

Somebody seems to have left their iPad behind though...

No, not necessarily. A clutch will only need changing if it is slipping (or if there are significant vibrations or noises coming from it). Abusing a clutch will significantly reduce it’s lifespan though.

Faker than a fake thing.

@21gg has just suggested a really good ‘problem solving’ option in your other thread. 👍

It’s pretty straight forward once you’ve got the trim piece out. From memory, the trim piece around the headunit has 3 ‘christmas tree’ fasteners: one in the top left, one top right and one bottom right. If you’ve got a headunit with a fold down facia, fold it down to get better access. Then, gently pry away in the 3 areas above (ideally with a trim release tool). Once the trim piece is off, disconnect the 3 connectors for the hazard switch and 2 switch clusters. After that, replacing a dead switch cluster is simply a case of removing a couple of screws. The reinstallation is the opposite of above. (Before you order the new part, I suggest that you remove the trim piece first and double check that all the connectors are attached properly). PS I’ve just seen the price for the switch assembly on Deroure - £102 (+ VAT)!!! Woah. Before you spend that, I can suggest some secondhand options.

Do all of the other switches in that little panel work ok? If not, that’s where your problem might lie. Edited to add: Ah, I see that you might have answered my question in your other thread.

That seems to be different to what she was saying back in July.

🤦‍♂️

ES Motorsports also had a number of them at one point.