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GTK

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GTK last won the day on January 19 2019

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    George
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    Esprit S2

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  1. On a flat directly to the right of the fuel pump take off, although I'd guess your mechanical fuel pump take off may be blanked. Look about 8" directly below the foremost spark plug, on the block. I've since been reading 'Coventry Climax Racing Engines: The Definitive Development History', by Des Hammill. It's interesting if halcyon day racing engine development swings your pants. It does detail the changes made to the FWP engine when it was developed for automotive use. The pump was the engine that sparked the interests of Chapman, Kieft et al, and it is the same base unit and a brilliant little engine, but there are a number of things that separate it from the FWA and FWE. There were a lot of simple changes made, displacement, porting, combustion chamber development, billet crank, higher compression, more bearings, distributor spark... nothing that couldn't be replicated, but the modern day problem is the availability and subsequent cost of the developed parts. A hand full of specialists hold all the cards. Making a pump engine sing is a project for the love of the project, rather than in the hope of saving money. But man, have you heard one go?
  2. Saw that engine too just today, it's still for sale. There are a few for sale in fire pump frames with pumps in tact. If you scratch around online it seems it's not uncommon to find these FWP engines modified to close to FWA spec, if not past, for use in replicas and racers. The following text is found in a few places online; "In 1953 it (the FW) was adapted for automotive racing as the 1098 cc FWA retaining the cast crank, three main bearing construction of the FW but with a distributor ignition in place of a magneto, a different camshaft, and a higher, 9.8:1 compression ratio. With a bore of 2.85 inches and a stroke of 2.625 inches, it produced 71 hp (53 kW) and was first used at Le Mans in 1954 by Kieft Cars. After the FWA was introduced, the FW engine was renamed to FWP (Pump)." __ So it doesn't seem like you'd have to do anything more to an FWP, to get it to early FWA spec, than you would to say a BMC A-Series engine that you wanted to build for power. Considering a CC FW in fast road or race spec from a specialist is nearly £6k (and I'd be surprised if they weren't starting with a FWP donor given that there were less than 700* FWA engines produced), the prospect of £400-£600 for a base engine isn't to be sniffed at. I saw a post on a forum from the '00's that said a bulk number of pump engines turned up at Beaulieu back then, and were going for £100 each. *figure is from CC development engineer Walter Hassan's book.
  3. You're not alone, but we're a very very small club it seems. You're Chairman 🤣 I think it looks like a purposeful racing car that's been prepared for a press shoot. Could see the appeal in that context but not in the 'ultimate craftsmanship, luxury and driving pleasure' context it's being marketed in.
  4. My little drill press was either made in Wolverhampton, or is a big Status Quo fan, because it's a wanderer Anyway, that aspect of the chassis is totally unoriginal, because of the even spacing between my welds lol. Haha "you may find yourself in a beautiful house, with a beautiful wife, and you may ask yourself..." why did Mark walk away. Come on man, I doubt your car could be bettered, what a steller ground up job, and by professionals. Mine could never be better anyway... because your's is the right colour Anyway this is my route to a dream car. It's a slog but it'll be all the sweeter for it, and I'm not after perfection, just trying to make sure I'm not driving it thinking "coulda done that better", about something underneath me. It'd spoil it, y'know.
  5. You have 28 mins to make popcorn, take a pit stop, secure the comfy chair from co-habitants and get naked... in whichever order makes you happiest lol
  6. I didn't get kidnapped or contract something nasty, thanks for asking The very long coming new episode of the Esprit build follows shortly!
  7. It's great that you had that to hand! I realised later what you meant, and I've had a chance to measure the aftermarket dampers that came with mine since. Couple of observances too, first that the hole centre on the bottom of the damper is offset on the vertical plane, so the measurement from one side will be slightly different to the other side. Also that my dampers were attached via the upper of the lower arm bolt holes, so definitely not the ideal in terms of the lower arm total travel. I'll add a few pics I took. My Gabriel dampers [which someone suggested were common after market back in the '80's/early '90's, were definitely too long. They measure 355mm or 360mm [depending on which side you measure from] and give or take a mm, using the same reference points as you used, at full extension. I extend one of them to 343mm and marked the lower body of the unit so that I could then mount it to the chassis [in the lower mounting holes] and accurately extend it to that length. Then checked where the lower arm was in relation to the bottom plate of the chassis shock tower. It was *just* touching the bottom plate. I've had to straighten my bottom plates and it's possible that they could be sitting slightly high. If they are, it's not by much, I'd be suspicious about whether the bottom arm would still hit under a heavy bottom out situation that deflected the damper bushes. Anyway all's well that ends well for now. Good to know to be exacting about damper length. I have a set of low miles Pro Tech adjustable dampers on the back burner, that I'll measure for ref, when I am able.
  8. Hey Steve, hope all's well. I didn't even think about the knock on from which mounting hole I used, even though I noticed the two different holes before I put the damper in. I'll check it this morning with the damper in the lower pair of holes. The other damper has never come out of the arm because it's seized in so it'll be interesting to see which pair of holes it's mounted in. I'm not with you in terms of where you're measuring the damper, the hole centre of the bottom mount, sure, but at the top? Are you measuring to the tip of the ram at full extension? Basically I don't know what the isolator perch is?
  9. Yeah fair enough Steve. It would definitely be good to know the length of an OEM damper. I did check with some fellow Esprit owners and more than one has experienced the same damage to the chassis.
  10. I know I'm pulling this chat out of the vault but I'm glad to find it because I've just noticed that my front arms have been bottoming out on the chassis and making a mess of it. I've straightened the chassis plates and the whole bottom panel is removed in the photos below, but both were fairly badly damaged before I worked on them. I read that @C43 has made modifications, and was just wondering what kind? Has anyone else made modifications they'd be wiling to show? As the photos below show, the shock absorbers do not act as bump stops. The dampers on my car are aftermarket but when the bottom arms hit the chassis there's still another 25mm / 1" of travel in the damper. [the pin line on the damper body I'm measuring from is the extent of travel in the unit at the point of bottom arm contacting chassis. I don't think bending the panels away from the bottom arm would be good for the structural integrity, nor would it create enough free space for full travel. I'm leaning toward a horse show shaped reinforcement in that area, to allow the bottom arm to pass through, this could also be engineered to serve as a jacking point, but I'm torn by originality. That said, the types of road these cars excel on are the types of roads that have fast crests. I don't want to have to back off
  11. Congrats on making a deal with B&C, sounds like a great result all round. Such a beautiful and unusual colour too! We never got those engine photos 🤓
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