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hast2

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About hast2

  • Rank
    L
  • Birthday 08/01/1978

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  • Name
    Gary
  • Car
    Esprit GT3 (97)
  1. Found it out on my VW Golf Mk2 1990. It was red too. Although it was about 10 years ago!! Great cars, had another Mk2 GTi since then. Handles great on tight single track back roads. (excuse me for wandering off topic and reminiscing ) Bit of a coincidence looking at how the topic started
  2. I've found that if you wash your car using household washing up liquid, this makes the paint fade quicker and also blotchie. I always use a car shampoo now. If your going to polish or t-cut after washing, try and get a car shampoo that doesn't include wax.
  3. I've taken it out a road test, after changing the rear master cylinder to reduce travel and stop the rear brakes locking, and it's not good! I can't get a good balance between it needing to much effort or to much travel. Don't get me wrong, it does work. And you could live with it. But a car that does everything else so well should have perfect brakes So it's back to the drawing board to try and fit a servo into the system. I've already sourced a servo that should fit and all I need now is my vacuum. I was thinking of using an electric vacuum pump. I've seen kits on the net that you can buy, but does anyone know of a car that uses one as standard that would be cheaper to get?
  4. A barrel of oil is about $115 now. And according to some guys I know in the oil industry it could hit $120 as early as next week
  5. I stay out in the country (my choice, so should expect extra costs) BUT!! It's a 60 mile round trip to work plus any extra miles I do at weekends, shopping etc. Makes it normally 400ish miles a week. Thats a tank of fuel at
  6. Hang your head in shame Subaru Impreza's have a intercooler but Legacy's have a chargecooler. As standard the legacy's chargecooler system doesn't use a pump. It's just the water changing temperture that makes it move round the system.
  7. Mines hasn't been above 0 Rpm for a few months must go and remove that dust cover and get it MOT'd
  8. I thought about using just one master cylinder and then using a valve in the rear line to stop the backs locking up. But without the power assistance on the brakes the pedal needs more effort. I didn't want to waste any pushing against a valve. As Bibs and Johnathan say, without the ABS it could be very interesting. I know it will be alot more unstable in the wet. I intend to have the balance more to the front to combat this. ABS can be great if you get into an unpleasant situation. Some people like ABS, and some don't. I've been racing and rallying cars for over 10years and every corner is almost an accident. Personally I don't like it. The Bias box that I used for my conversion is a universal one. It was designed to be fitted into rally/race saloon cars. It came with the 0.750 and 0.625 master cylinders. I tried these and then swapped the rear for a 0.700 to get the right balance. The only other parts you need are to fabricate a link bar to the pedal (as per earlier post) and brake lines. You could do the lines in copper and use the standard rubber hoses. I took the chance to go to braided, and it was easier/cheaper to do the length of the car.
  9. The balance bar is 7/16. The only flex you get, when the pedal is pushed really hard, is the rear of the cylinders lift slightly. But this is all due to flex in the standard master cylinder bracket that i fixed it to. I guess the standard set up would do the same as well. I changed one of the master cylinders over last night and the pedal feel is much better (less travel). Won't be able to test it for a bit though. Doing some other work and need a MOT. The brake pedal is heavier without the power assistance, but I could still lock the wheels with ease at 70mph. And that the max apeed in the UK so I won't be going any faster than that Cheers for the compliments guys Gary
  10. I think I'll just stick with the Mechanical pump for the moment. If it is worn or does wear I'll replace it with a PUK part. The electric pump will find it's way on to it's original project. 4WD Legacy for Autocrossing It's chargecooler system doesn't use a pump, so it should help. Thanks for the opinions Gary
  11. Heres the balance bar. Very easy to adjust. I just wind it clockwise for more front ant anti-clock for more back. At the moment I can do it by hand, but it may get stiffer with time. Maybe I should put a lock nut on it to stop it self adjusting when driving, but it hasn't been a problem so far. I drilled the bias box with the same hole pattern as the standard master cylinder and bolted it onto the standard stand-off brackets it uses. I attached it to the pedal with a adjustable bar. One end screws into the threaded box that comes from the pedal through the bulk head and the other into the clevis fitted to the bias box. I can't remember which way round it was but I got a long bolt for the largest thread size of the 2 and then turned the other end down in a lathe and ran a die nut down it. This was the hardest part to do. Just trying to get it the correct length. It's a single braided brake pipe to the rear that "T's" in the engine bay and then more braided hose to each caliper. Same again for the front but it's "T" is mounted on the front cross member. If I was to do it again I would use smaller reservoirs. I bought them unseen mail order and when they sit on the cylinders the caps just touch each other. And they also just clear the bonnet. But they do fit so I won't be replacing them.
  12. Ever since I got my GT3 (MY97) just over 2 years ago I've not had the brakes working correctly. 1st it was the accumulator that needed replaced, due to not holding enough of a charge. 2nd the pressure switch failed. 3rd. From day 1 it has pulled to the side under heavy and light braking. But to make things worse it goes left sometimes and right othertimes. I've overhauled all the calipers and it still does this. My only conclusion is that it is some of the seals or valves inside the master cylinder assembly. Instead of throwing yet more money at the problem I decided to get back to basics and fit a more basic system and get rid of all the electronic stuff. I've kept the original calipers front and rear. they are all fitted with green stuff pads. I used 0.750 cylinder on the rear and a 0.625 on the front to start with. With this wound with full bias to the back it still locked the fronts all the time and gave a very long peddle. I the swapped them about to give me the 0.625 on the rear and the 0.750 on the front. This is much better. the peddle feel is good but it does seem to still be a little bit on the long side. And with the bias wound all the way to the front it still locks the backs first most of the time. I've got a 0.700 cylinder to replace the 0.625 with. This sould put a bit less to the back and improve the peddle travel. All I've got to do now is get round to fitting it and taking it out for a test drive If anyone wants more info on how it was done feel free to ask. Gary
  13. As the title says! I'm away to do some work to my esprit and get it ready for the summer. It's a 96 GT3. I've obtained an electric pump that would suit the chargecooler system, but as mine could be in good condition, I want to know if adding a second pump would increase the efficiency of the system. I'm going to be changing the thermostat, so thought this would be a good time to get this done as well. Thanks Gary
  14. I've got some nice photos of my car as well The good thing about the esprit is you can't see the driver in most photos or videos due to the reflection caused by the angle. Now all you need is a very good reason to not be able to remember who was driving at the time. From experiance it's alot better to give them names of possable drivers. Seen the video footage of my esprit going through a speed trap, I thought I seen it in plenty time. They had over 35 seconds of footage from after they first recorded my speed, and I wasn't doing 35 in a 30 (on a motorway, and very lucky to just get 3 points)
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