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Denzeldude

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Everything posted by Denzeldude

  1. How much did it cost to get the fuel tanks over here? (cost price and shipping) Thinking about it myself.
  2. Looks very similar to this one in Mark.Jones photo archive. Hopefully this link works. https://plus.google.com/photos/108292765998464008070/albums/5629174518401655329/5798504863280406914?banner=pwa&pid=5798504863280406914&oid=108292765998464008070&authkey=CJnUzYKtjqmhlAE If that link works, there are a couple more photos back or forth in the series. If not, I can put some up on photobucket. Now I'm just guessing at this whole thing so don't take this as a definite answer. If it is the same (and it looks like some bolts may not be attached to yours), then it is a plate on the outer side of the body shell that the handbrake lever attaches to. This plate may be on both sides of the car (LHD and RHD), just guessing. There's also a shorter and fatter plate further back that holds the two handbrake cables. Hope this helps. EDITED: Thought I'd just insert the photos here.
  3. Denzeldude

    New Esprit

    I'm only stirring.
  4. Denzeldude

    New Esprit

    Now don't get me wrong, I'm not taking sides...but it's interesting hearing people say it's not "Lotus" enough, or not in line with the "Lotus" marque. Does this also mean that when Lambo moved away from "Lambo" doors, that the new design was chuffed at because it wasn't "Lambo" enough? When G went to Stevens did all the owners say "It's no longer a wedge, that's just not 'Lotus' "? When the Elise came out did people say "It's too small, that's just not 'Lotus' "? I would suggest that the marque would initially define then need to re-define itself as required to sell cars to the current trends so people will buy them (and I don't mean making it look like a Ford Focus coz they sell well). It would not be a good idea to spend millions designing a car and only selling 500 units to the old boy's club because they prefer the traditional Lotus marque. There will always be people who are not happy with change. Hmmmm, interesting
  5. 78070461G 1978 Esprit S2 Evan Mobbs (Denzeldude), Sydney, NSW, Australia.
  6. Thanks for all of the info, especially TonyK. I thought it might be an interesting discussion. Before I purchased the car I only had a very short time (1 week) to research the famous Lotus Esprit, and knew extremely little about differences in the models. I knew that when the opportunity arose, I wanted one. I bought it for $19,000 AUD which is reasonably cheap. I've seen many going for between $30,000 and $40,000 and an 85 turbo going for $49,000 (but it was nice). Now that I know where to look, there are also some other cheaper ones including a red S1 that are under $20,000, but unfortunately I already have one (and no I can't afford another :crybaby: ) I actually prefer the look of a normal S2 (sorry to you turbo guys and gals ), and I prefer an S1 shape even more, but they're even rarer over here. Having said that, it's still a very nice car (when it works ), and everyone comments on it. It's amazing how, when you're driving slowly down a crowded street you can hear over the engine noise people saying "hey look at that Lotus Esprit" or "hey it's that Bond car". They do that over here. Now I can add it confidently to the Esprit Registry. Thanks again, and happy Esprit-ing.
  7. Time to spill the beans. Tony K, to satisfy your curiosity: The rear quarter window. The ear is missing as I'm going to get it repainted. (it was also missing in that grainy photo) A seat. The interior light. Inside the front. Front defogger vents (on binnacle, and passenger side) Gauges. With carbon fibre additions as the old plastic was warped and cracked (oil pressure gauge still connected in the car) And here is the engine. (Work still being done) Now, according to SCW website, the VIN 78070461G and matching engine number CC907780715201 indicates car is an S1 (?) and was completed on 25th August 1978, and the original colour was LAGOON. The Lagoon can be confirmed by the overspray seen near the radiator: and inside the rear section, just in front of the left indicator. (you can also see the blending of the ducktail indicated by the tan coloured fibreglass patch). Guess that also proves it's not a factory installation of the ducktail. Regarding the rear valence/bumper, it appears the normal S1/S2 shape had the lower section chopped to make the turbo style pieces fit. It's a bit of a sloppy job as can be seen in the top of this picture: And finally a picture showing the older style chassis/gearbox/suspension/brakes setup: So, is it an S2?
  8. Now that would just give it away. So would a picture of the dash with a boost gauge... or maybe it doesn't have a boost gauge???? There are parts on this car that could be from several models. Did anyone notice something in that grainy picture above?
  9. For those who didn't know the commercial, you probably sounded like you were on drugs. lol
  10. Here's that photo I mentioned earlier. Sorry, but the original photo is very grainy. There's something there that might suggest later than an S2. Stay tuned for the next clue.
  11. My cunning plan worked. I've learnt a lot about the car so far. To add a couple more clues: 1. PO said it's not the original louvre. 2. It's not the original colour of the car. 3. It's not the original interior. 4. PO also mentioned it has been resprayed at least once in it's lifetime, that he chose to only have "Esprit" as the side decal, and decided not to put the other plain "Esprit" decal he purchased on the nose near the badge. When I get home from work I will add a photo provided by the PO, taken during a respray to see if you notice something. I haven't contacted the factory about the specifics, but have noted the model by the VIN and matching engine number on the SportsCarWorld website. Can't say much more about that without giving it away, except that it doesn't correspond to what I believe is the correct model.
  12. I was doing some research into the history of my car and found some irregularities. The year and the model are quite possibly not what it is registered as. For now though, I put it to the experts to try and identify which model it is. (An attempt to spark some interesting discussion) Post your guesses and reasons why it is or isn't a certain model, then I will add some more clues. At first glance it seems reasonably easy to identify it (except for the wheels of course). Now for the first piece of the puzzle.... 1. Notice the smooth bodywork where the join from the ducktail should be, as you would expect in an Essex, S3, Turbo, or Turbo HC. 2. The rubber strip stops where the join should be. 3. If anyone else has this, or knows of why it is like this, please share your info. More clues to come.
  13. Thanks for the responses, but not sure my situation has been understood. I don't have a leak (not yet anyway), and am not trying to replace the whole oil pipe from the engine to the gauge. I'm just wanting to find out if there are any tricks or traps when disconnecting the oil pipe from the back of the gauge, before reconnecting it (same pipe to same gauge) after replacing the cracked plastic that surrounded all of the gauges.
  14. My problem is along similar lines to this thread. I have taken my instrument cluster apart to replace parts (including the cracked instrument surround) and now I need to put the oil pressure gauge into the new surrounds (I left the oil line connected and simply pulled the gauge out of the old cracked plastic surround). Here's where I need some advice before disconnecting the oil line. What is the correct procedure for removing and refitting the oil pressure line? Will the line require bleeding any air out of it before reconnecting? Is there going to be oil coming out of it (and therefore messy)? Any little trick to get it off then back on? Any advice is appreciated, as I would hate to go through the hassle of ordering replacement parts from the UK. Thanks
  15. I just took my complete dash out yesterday and it looks exactly like mine. S2. However, as you can see in my avatar, my 1980 S2 has the later body. When I was taking the binnacle off, I had to undo those 4 bolts on the metal base (a real pain in the behind to get at) because the front left and right facia's were damaged and couldn't be taken out to get at the 2 bolts on the underside near the front (the wider spaced ones). I hope I explained that well enough.
  16. I agree totally. This is probably why my headlights failed, and my indicator stalk burnt out etc. The manual says all 12 fuses are 30A. I've never seen this in any other vehicle (all fuses for every system the same). I plan to install low amp fuses in my new harness until I find the rating that doesn't blow. eg. if I put in a 10A and it blows, then I'll put in a 15A, and if that blows, I'll put in a 20A etc until I find the lowest amperage fuse that won't blow when the system runs correctly. I'll check this against what is actually running through the wire (as per calculators and previous posts) to determine if everything matches the expected ratings. With the planned wiring diagram, I expect a lot of 10A fuses (compared to the 30A originally). If all goes well, no gremlins, bright lights, no burning wires, and happy driving.
  17. Thanks for the quick responses. I've used calculators on sites such as www.the12volt.com etc, and they backup what you've said. I just wanted to send the question out, because I noticed that Lotus (as well as almost every other car maker) seemed to use the same gauge wire between + and a single globe as they would use to power several globes & accessories. These wires are capable of carrying up to 20-30A. I thank you for your replies. I will continue using wire greater than what is required, but not necessarily as overboard as the OEM. Andy, you mentioned yours was a 10A fuse. Every one of my fuses is 30A, which matches the Lotus original workshop manual I got with the car. Interesting? By the way Hilly, nice beast. I've been watching your conversion. Wish I could do the same here, but Australia has very strict guidelines on modifications (in particular engine size versus car weight). I bought a 3.8 litre V6 to put into mine but the capacity is too large for the weight of the car. Apparently here in New South Wales, for a normally aspirated engine, you can only put an engine of a capacity that is 3 times the weight of the car, so I would be restricted to something a little over 3 litres. That leaves something like a 2 litre Japanese turbo as an option to get some performance.
  18. After too many gremlins (such as losing all headlights one night 200 kilometres from home) and some burnt out switches and indicator stalk (gotta love that burning wire smell), I'm doing a major re-wiring of the S2, and I'm just wondering.... how many amps do the rear indicator lights use? My new wiring loom is nowhere near ready to connect to the battery, so I can't turn them on and check myself. I've done plenty of other electrical work, but this is the first major automotive wiring I've done. 12volts is an art in itself. The reason I'm asking is that there are options regarding the type of wire to use. I only want to use the thinnest wire that will still get the power through at the required efficiency. So your help will be appreciated.
  19. I've found wikipedia to be an awesome tool for knowledge. Checkout http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential It should help to some degree. To explain how this can affect someone in real life. When my outer driveshaft stripped itself bare and the rear wheel hub was spinning freely on it, I had no drive to the other wheel... I wasn't going anywhere that day, except on the back of the tilt-tray tow truck. Not quite the same as the high-performance situation of going around a corner with one rear wheel of the ground and losing drive to the other wheel, resulting in a slower lap time.
  20. "but do you really want Hi, Low and inner on when you go onto high beam?" Regarding this, when I change between lows and highs on my S2 there is about half a second of NO lights as it does the changeover. Maybe my tired old high beams take a while to warm up to light emitting temperature. I'm not saying anyone else's Esprit is like mine. They all seem to have different personalities. Anyway, with slow wipers, slow windows, and a ticking starter solenoid, I'm rewiring the major parts of the electrical system. New cables between the battery-starter-alternator have fixed the starter solenoid. Now for all the rest of the wiring (with new relay setups on windows etc). The lights will perform better with a dedicated wire of a suitable gauge, and with a relay so the high beam power doesn't go through the light switch on the binnacle and the indicator stalk (which burnt out recently). Gotta love early british wiring designs.
  21. I went to get a roadworthy inspection for rego on the S2 and the place I took it to noted that the steering column had a noticeable click (or notch) about every half rotation. I felt it myself while it was up on the hoist. Can't feel it on the road while driving though. First stupid question... is this normal? Second question... what needs to be done to fix it? Bearings? UJ? Thanks.
  22. About two weeks before I actually bought the Esprit I was looking at, I got a workshop manual and parts list cd on ebay just to check out the car. The cd was reasonably cheap and I thought it would be a small price to pay for information before bringing out the big bucks. It had many Esprit versions. The workshop manual was fine, but the parts list is missing several pages - not too many, but they were some of the important ones with pictures. So be very careful if you decide to go the ebay option.
  23. I asked about a similar situation a while ago, http://www.glcforum.com/esprit/forums/inde...?showtopic=7499 I'm also looking to do some modification, and probably change the wiper motor aswell. I'm not knowledgable on wiper motors, so when considering an alternate motor, do I only have to find one with the same sweep angle? Would a motor from a two-blade setup have a narrower sweep angle than single-blade setups? I'm guessing so, but if anyone knows a bit about wipers can you let us know? My basic understanding is that I would have to source a single blade system and try and make it fit. It can't be that hard can it? (famous last words :crybaby: ).
  24. Thanks Mark. Looks good. I was thinking of fibreglassing it, but MDF (medium density fibreboard) might be a better option. Carpeting is a good idea also to stop any rattling (there are enough already in the Esprit without adding bouncing items in the glovebox) Wondering what you did for access to the fuses. You've got the exact same leather colour as mine.
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